August 2003 129
THE NEW turbine engines keep coming.
JetCat USA has announced its new P-70: a
lightweight, small-diameter turbine designed
to fit the 15- to 18-pound-thrust applications.
It’s slightly larger than the MW54 turbine, but
smaller in diameter than the P-80.
The P-70 features all of the amenities we
have come to expect from JetCat including
onboard autostart, onboard data collection
within the ECU (engine control unit) allowing
recording of operating parameters, and
display of troubleshooting codes when
required.
Frank Tiano is now in the turbine business
with his improved rendition of the RAM
turbine line and the TJT 3000. The FTE 500
is a 12-pound-thrust turbine and the FTE 750
is a 22-pound-thrust turbine. The TJT 3000
from Australia, imported by Frank, is a 271⁄2-
pound-thrust turbine. All of these engines are
available with an onboard autostart feature.
For additional information, visit Frank’s
Web site at www.franktiano.com. You will
see that he has many products for the Scale
and jet modeler.
While at Florida Jets earlier this year, I got a
firsthand look at some new turbine models on
the market. Tom Cook’s new Jet Model
Products Hustler was completely painted and
flying. This is one large sport model with
moderate landing speeds. The wingspan is
811⁄2 inches, and there is a lot of wing area to
match.
Designed to handle big turbine power, this
model has a sophisticated, strong,
prefabricated composite airframe. The kit
comes complete with composite landing-gear
doors, flaps, and all control surfaces. Rugged
landing-gear systems have always been a Jet
Model Products trademark, and the robust
Jim Hiller, 6090 Downs Rd., Champion OH 44481
RADIO CONTROL JETS
Sung Su Kim’s Golden West Models A-37 Dragonfly won Critics’ Choice Award at Florida Jets. The builder is Henry Nguyen.
Tom Cook flew the Jet Model Products Hustler prototype at Florida Jets. This is a large,
lightweight, composite airframe for the sport modeler.
Malcolm Kaye brought this Aviation Design Gryphon to this year’s Florida Jets event
and showed us how well this unusual aircraft flies.
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 129
gear under the Hustler is made for the job.
There is not a weak link in this design.
If you dislike cramming all of the radio,
fuel systems, and turbine equipment into the
small fuselages of the average sport jet, the
Hustler is for you. When Tom opens the
hatch on this aircraft, you can’t believe the
extra space. The fuselage is large, and the fuel
tanks are contained in the wing strakes rather
than in front of the turbine. This opens up all
that space. You have room to move in this
fuselage.
Check out the new Hustler at the Jet
Model Products Web site: www.jetmodel
products.com. Tom is again setting the
standard in kit design and fabrication.
Malcolm Kaye is bringing the Aviation
Design line of models to North America, and
he showed up at Florida Jets with a new
Gryphon sport jet. He put it in flight to show
us how well it flies.
This is a rather unusual model; it is a
canard design with a semicowled turbine. A
cover partially hides the turbine, but enough
is exposed so that no inlet or tailpipe is
utilized.
This is a large model with an 80-inch
wingspan and a large fuselage. It has great
presence sitting on the ground waiting to fly,
and it has a neat look. This model is a bit hard
to describe, but you can find additional
information at Aviation Design’s Web site at
www.adjets.com.
Do you think your jet is looking a little
boring and you’re ready to dress it up for
show? Where do you begin?
A couple of months ago I visited ProMark
Graphics and discussed some of the excellent
dry-transfer decals for sport and Scale jets.
Let’s start with that thought and build from
there.
I like to begin by looking at jets with paint
schemes similar to that on my model. If it is a
military jet, I pull out some pictures of fullscale
military jets to see what markings they
use and where they use them. If it is a sport
jet, I start with pictures of other modelers’ jets
and pictures of the many civilian-operated,
full-scale jets.
Some things you usually find are fueling
instructions at the fuel caps, ejection-seat
warnings, and intake warnings. It is typical to
find instruction-type lettering such as
“Battery Drain Here,” “Hydraulic Oil
Information,” “Static Ports,” and of course,
“No Step.”
What else do you always see in these
pictures? Panel lines. These can be almost as
simple to apply as the instruction graphics. It
is just a matter of how sophisticated you want
to get.
A typical competition Scale modeler goes
all out and creates three-dimensional panel
lines using thin line masking before painting
or lines scribed into the paint. He or she then
follows that with color shading in the grooved
panel line itself and on the individual panels.
130 MODEL AVIATION
• Economical
• Powerful
• Swings 15x8, 16x8,
18x8, & 20x6
props
• For 1/4 scale up
to 24 lbs.
• Precision
Made in the
U.S.A.
25CC GAS
ENGINES
Flair Products
SCOUT SERIES
WE CARRY ...
IN .40 2/S TO .61 4/S:
•SE5-A
•LEGIONAIRE
(NIEUPORT 17)
•BARONETTE
(FOKKER TRI-PLANE)
•SOPWITH PUP
•MAGNATILLA
•HARVARD / AT-6 TEXAN
GREAT MAGNUM
ENGINE/KIT COMBOS!
Flair Fokker D-VII (61” WS, .40 2/S, .60 4/S)
THEY’RE NOT ARFS...
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Ben Buckle Kits
WE CARRY ...
• BUCCANEER
• QUAKER FLASH
• RED ZEPHYR
• RECORD BREAKER
• FLYING QUAKER
• SUPER SCORPION
• GREAT NEWS
• SUPER BUCCANEER
• SOUTHERNER 60
• TAYLORCRAFT 70
Playboy
Senior 80"
SO OLD...
$5299
Shipped in the 48!
$21000
+1250 S&H!
PO Box 7967
PASADENA, TX 77508
www.gcbmrc.com
Send $5 for Catalog • Direct Sales Only.
Orders Only 800-609-7951
Techline: 281-998-2529
...They’re New!
ESTATE LIQUIDATION SERVICES
• We buy: R/C Airplane Kits, ARF’s, Engines,
Radios, Field Equipment, Building Accessories
• 1 or 2 items to an Entire Estate
• Vintage and Antique Collections
• Hobby Shop Inventories
• New or Used
• Pick-up Service Available
For information, call 281-998-2529,
or send SASE to:
GCBM R/C Models Inc.
PO Box 7967, Pasadena, TX 77508
website: gcbmrc.com
(No RTF airplanes, cars, boats, or related equipment please.)
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 130
August 2003 131
Likewise, rivets, screws, and other access
panels are made with depth. But we want to
dress up our model for appearance, not design
for competition Scale, so let’s use a simpler
method.
I like to use the old tried-and-proven
technique of drawn panel lines on my sport
models. Again, you have some options.
Graphics suppliers such as ProMark Graphics
provide dry transfers with panels, panel lines,
rivets, and screws. If you prefer the drytransfer
process, the products are readily
available to make it happen.
A panel line can be drawn with special
pens and India ink, or you can simplify the
process and use a soft pencil or an ultra-finepoint
permanent marker, such as the Sanford
Slimline, found in the stationery supply
departments of most department stores.
The pencil line looks good on the typical
military-gray model, highlighting the panel
line without making it stand out too strong.
Mistakes can be erased easily. You can
protect the pencil line with clearcoat paint
quite easily; the clear solvents do not affect
the pencil line.
An ink-drawn line, typically black, stands
out boldly on the model. It would be out of
place on a Scale model, but we aren’t
detailing a Scale model; we are adding
graphics to our sport models. The strong
contrast will make our artistic effort stand out.
Lines can be corrected by erasing the ink
with isopropyl alcohol. Use care when
applying the final clearcoat because the
solvents can attack the ink and ruin your
work.
Now say you’ve decided to add panel
lines. Where do you begin? Consider the
tools. You need a good, flexible straightedge
raised approximately 1⁄32 inch above the
surface. I have an 18-inch flexible stainlesssteel
ruler with a thin cork backing that works
great for all but the curved fuselage lines.
For the curved panel lines such as the
vertical lines on the fuselage, I make a custom
straightedge. I cut some thin plastic sheet
roughly 2 inches wide and apply a couple of
layers of masking tape to the back side to
space it away from the surface. Why space it
off the surface? This is to keep the ink from
wicking under the straightedge and ruining
that perfectly drawn line.
Prepare the model for panel lines. If you
are using ink, you will need to remove the
surface shine from the model. The ink will not
adhere to a smooth painted surface. Use
1,500-grit sandpaper to completely wet-sand
the surface of the model to eliminate all shiny
surfaces. This provides the additional benefit
of sanding off all of the orange peel from the
finish. An old tip is to add a few drops of dish
soap to your water to lubricate the sandpaper.
It works really well.
Where do you put the panel lines? Look at
those pictures again and develop your plan.
Typically, the wing has some spanwise
lines—one a few inches back from the leading
edge, another at the high point, and maybe
even one just ahead of the ailerons.
Use your imagination; this is not a Scale
model, so you can’t be wrong. A couple of
lines parallel to the airstream break up the
wing nicely. Use a similar technique on the
stabilizers and fin. The fuselage really isn’t
much different except that it usually has some
panel lines vertical around the fuselage. Break
up these lines when you get to a difficult
inside curve such as a wing fillet, including
the inlet duct fillet, to avoid difficult
situations.
Use a ruler to measure the beginning and
ending points of all of your panel lines so that
they will be symmetrical on either side of the
model. Carefully line up your straightedge
before applying the ink, then go to it. With a
permanent marker it takes approximately
three passes to get a good, solid line. Use care
not to shift the straightedge and to hold the
pen at the same angle as you retrace your path
to fill in the line completely.
Drawing the panel lines goes quickly. I
usually spend one night drawing these lines
on the model. I follow up on a second night
adding details such as hatches, rivets, or
screws, although today it is much easier to put
rivets and screws on with dry-transfer
graphics.
The ink drawing is complete, so protect all
of that work. The inked lines are susceptible
to damage from the solvents in paints, so start
with some very thin, dry mist coats of clear
paint over the inked lines. Allow this coat to
cure completely before applying the final
clearcoat over the entire model.
That’s it; you now have a nicely detailed
sport model that stands out from the rest.
It’s time to get out flying; the summer’s
wasting. See you at the next jet meet. MA
TOLL FREE PHONE: 800-332-3256 • TOLL FREE FAX: 800-409-9191
1500 S.W. 30th Avenue, Suite 3 • Boynton Beach, Florida 33426, U.S.A.
Phone: 561-998-0004 • Fax: 561-998-0119
Email: [email protected] • Web: http://www.bocabearings.com
FREEDOM FROM FREIGHT.
Now you can call Boca Bearing toll free from anywhere in the U.S. and Canada to order one, or even a hundred bearings
from our inventory of over 2 million bearings.
Free Freight on All Orders Shipped in the U.S. and Canada!
It’s a Revolutionary New Way to Buy Your Engine Replacement Bearings!
Nuevo
Sitio en
Español!
Place Your Order on the Web: www.bocabearings.com
Ceramic Engine Bearings Now Available For All Of The Most Popular Heli's
Call for special pricing.
Buy 3 get 1 free!
MADISON COMPONENTS • 1-800-811-9135
1059 Valley Crest Drive, Birmingham, AL 35226
www.qualityrcproducts.com
Think of it as Insurance
for your Aircraft.
Constantly Monitors
• Battery Under Load
• Servos
• Switch/Harness
• Crystal
• Tuning Circuit
• Filter
• Unconditional Lifetime Warranty
• Dealer Inquiries Invited.
• U.S. Distributor
GEM 2000
The Electronic Guardian!
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:36 pm Page 131
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
August 2003 129
THE NEW turbine engines keep coming.
JetCat USA has announced its new P-70: a
lightweight, small-diameter turbine designed
to fit the 15- to 18-pound-thrust applications.
It’s slightly larger than the MW54 turbine, but
smaller in diameter than the P-80.
The P-70 features all of the amenities we
have come to expect from JetCat including
onboard autostart, onboard data collection
within the ECU (engine control unit) allowing
recording of operating parameters, and
display of troubleshooting codes when
required.
Frank Tiano is now in the turbine business
with his improved rendition of the RAM
turbine line and the TJT 3000. The FTE 500
is a 12-pound-thrust turbine and the FTE 750
is a 22-pound-thrust turbine. The TJT 3000
from Australia, imported by Frank, is a 271⁄2-
pound-thrust turbine. All of these engines are
available with an onboard autostart feature.
For additional information, visit Frank’s
Web site at www.franktiano.com. You will
see that he has many products for the Scale
and jet modeler.
While at Florida Jets earlier this year, I got a
firsthand look at some new turbine models on
the market. Tom Cook’s new Jet Model
Products Hustler was completely painted and
flying. This is one large sport model with
moderate landing speeds. The wingspan is
811⁄2 inches, and there is a lot of wing area to
match.
Designed to handle big turbine power, this
model has a sophisticated, strong,
prefabricated composite airframe. The kit
comes complete with composite landing-gear
doors, flaps, and all control surfaces. Rugged
landing-gear systems have always been a Jet
Model Products trademark, and the robust
Jim Hiller, 6090 Downs Rd., Champion OH 44481
RADIO CONTROL JETS
Sung Su Kim’s Golden West Models A-37 Dragonfly won Critics’ Choice Award at Florida Jets. The builder is Henry Nguyen.
Tom Cook flew the Jet Model Products Hustler prototype at Florida Jets. This is a large,
lightweight, composite airframe for the sport modeler.
Malcolm Kaye brought this Aviation Design Gryphon to this year’s Florida Jets event
and showed us how well this unusual aircraft flies.
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 129
gear under the Hustler is made for the job.
There is not a weak link in this design.
If you dislike cramming all of the radio,
fuel systems, and turbine equipment into the
small fuselages of the average sport jet, the
Hustler is for you. When Tom opens the
hatch on this aircraft, you can’t believe the
extra space. The fuselage is large, and the fuel
tanks are contained in the wing strakes rather
than in front of the turbine. This opens up all
that space. You have room to move in this
fuselage.
Check out the new Hustler at the Jet
Model Products Web site: www.jetmodel
products.com. Tom is again setting the
standard in kit design and fabrication.
Malcolm Kaye is bringing the Aviation
Design line of models to North America, and
he showed up at Florida Jets with a new
Gryphon sport jet. He put it in flight to show
us how well it flies.
This is a rather unusual model; it is a
canard design with a semicowled turbine. A
cover partially hides the turbine, but enough
is exposed so that no inlet or tailpipe is
utilized.
This is a large model with an 80-inch
wingspan and a large fuselage. It has great
presence sitting on the ground waiting to fly,
and it has a neat look. This model is a bit hard
to describe, but you can find additional
information at Aviation Design’s Web site at
www.adjets.com.
Do you think your jet is looking a little
boring and you’re ready to dress it up for
show? Where do you begin?
A couple of months ago I visited ProMark
Graphics and discussed some of the excellent
dry-transfer decals for sport and Scale jets.
Let’s start with that thought and build from
there.
I like to begin by looking at jets with paint
schemes similar to that on my model. If it is a
military jet, I pull out some pictures of fullscale
military jets to see what markings they
use and where they use them. If it is a sport
jet, I start with pictures of other modelers’ jets
and pictures of the many civilian-operated,
full-scale jets.
Some things you usually find are fueling
instructions at the fuel caps, ejection-seat
warnings, and intake warnings. It is typical to
find instruction-type lettering such as
“Battery Drain Here,” “Hydraulic Oil
Information,” “Static Ports,” and of course,
“No Step.”
What else do you always see in these
pictures? Panel lines. These can be almost as
simple to apply as the instruction graphics. It
is just a matter of how sophisticated you want
to get.
A typical competition Scale modeler goes
all out and creates three-dimensional panel
lines using thin line masking before painting
or lines scribed into the paint. He or she then
follows that with color shading in the grooved
panel line itself and on the individual panels.
130 MODEL AVIATION
• Economical
• Powerful
• Swings 15x8, 16x8,
18x8, & 20x6
props
• For 1/4 scale up
to 24 lbs.
• Precision
Made in the
U.S.A.
25CC GAS
ENGINES
Flair Products
SCOUT SERIES
WE CARRY ...
IN .40 2/S TO .61 4/S:
•SE5-A
•LEGIONAIRE
(NIEUPORT 17)
•BARONETTE
(FOKKER TRI-PLANE)
•SOPWITH PUP
•MAGNATILLA
•HARVARD / AT-6 TEXAN
GREAT MAGNUM
ENGINE/KIT COMBOS!
Flair Fokker D-VII (61” WS, .40 2/S, .60 4/S)
THEY’RE NOT ARFS...
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Ben Buckle Kits
WE CARRY ...
• BUCCANEER
• QUAKER FLASH
• RED ZEPHYR
• RECORD BREAKER
• FLYING QUAKER
• SUPER SCORPION
• GREAT NEWS
• SUPER BUCCANEER
• SOUTHERNER 60
• TAYLORCRAFT 70
Playboy
Senior 80"
SO OLD...
$5299
Shipped in the 48!
$21000
+1250 S&H!
PO Box 7967
PASADENA, TX 77508
www.gcbmrc.com
Send $5 for Catalog • Direct Sales Only.
Orders Only 800-609-7951
Techline: 281-998-2529
...They’re New!
ESTATE LIQUIDATION SERVICES
• We buy: R/C Airplane Kits, ARF’s, Engines,
Radios, Field Equipment, Building Accessories
• 1 or 2 items to an Entire Estate
• Vintage and Antique Collections
• Hobby Shop Inventories
• New or Used
• Pick-up Service Available
For information, call 281-998-2529,
or send SASE to:
GCBM R/C Models Inc.
PO Box 7967, Pasadena, TX 77508
website: gcbmrc.com
(No RTF airplanes, cars, boats, or related equipment please.)
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 130
August 2003 131
Likewise, rivets, screws, and other access
panels are made with depth. But we want to
dress up our model for appearance, not design
for competition Scale, so let’s use a simpler
method.
I like to use the old tried-and-proven
technique of drawn panel lines on my sport
models. Again, you have some options.
Graphics suppliers such as ProMark Graphics
provide dry transfers with panels, panel lines,
rivets, and screws. If you prefer the drytransfer
process, the products are readily
available to make it happen.
A panel line can be drawn with special
pens and India ink, or you can simplify the
process and use a soft pencil or an ultra-finepoint
permanent marker, such as the Sanford
Slimline, found in the stationery supply
departments of most department stores.
The pencil line looks good on the typical
military-gray model, highlighting the panel
line without making it stand out too strong.
Mistakes can be erased easily. You can
protect the pencil line with clearcoat paint
quite easily; the clear solvents do not affect
the pencil line.
An ink-drawn line, typically black, stands
out boldly on the model. It would be out of
place on a Scale model, but we aren’t
detailing a Scale model; we are adding
graphics to our sport models. The strong
contrast will make our artistic effort stand out.
Lines can be corrected by erasing the ink
with isopropyl alcohol. Use care when
applying the final clearcoat because the
solvents can attack the ink and ruin your
work.
Now say you’ve decided to add panel
lines. Where do you begin? Consider the
tools. You need a good, flexible straightedge
raised approximately 1⁄32 inch above the
surface. I have an 18-inch flexible stainlesssteel
ruler with a thin cork backing that works
great for all but the curved fuselage lines.
For the curved panel lines such as the
vertical lines on the fuselage, I make a custom
straightedge. I cut some thin plastic sheet
roughly 2 inches wide and apply a couple of
layers of masking tape to the back side to
space it away from the surface. Why space it
off the surface? This is to keep the ink from
wicking under the straightedge and ruining
that perfectly drawn line.
Prepare the model for panel lines. If you
are using ink, you will need to remove the
surface shine from the model. The ink will not
adhere to a smooth painted surface. Use
1,500-grit sandpaper to completely wet-sand
the surface of the model to eliminate all shiny
surfaces. This provides the additional benefit
of sanding off all of the orange peel from the
finish. An old tip is to add a few drops of dish
soap to your water to lubricate the sandpaper.
It works really well.
Where do you put the panel lines? Look at
those pictures again and develop your plan.
Typically, the wing has some spanwise
lines—one a few inches back from the leading
edge, another at the high point, and maybe
even one just ahead of the ailerons.
Use your imagination; this is not a Scale
model, so you can’t be wrong. A couple of
lines parallel to the airstream break up the
wing nicely. Use a similar technique on the
stabilizers and fin. The fuselage really isn’t
much different except that it usually has some
panel lines vertical around the fuselage. Break
up these lines when you get to a difficult
inside curve such as a wing fillet, including
the inlet duct fillet, to avoid difficult
situations.
Use a ruler to measure the beginning and
ending points of all of your panel lines so that
they will be symmetrical on either side of the
model. Carefully line up your straightedge
before applying the ink, then go to it. With a
permanent marker it takes approximately
three passes to get a good, solid line. Use care
not to shift the straightedge and to hold the
pen at the same angle as you retrace your path
to fill in the line completely.
Drawing the panel lines goes quickly. I
usually spend one night drawing these lines
on the model. I follow up on a second night
adding details such as hatches, rivets, or
screws, although today it is much easier to put
rivets and screws on with dry-transfer
graphics.
The ink drawing is complete, so protect all
of that work. The inked lines are susceptible
to damage from the solvents in paints, so start
with some very thin, dry mist coats of clear
paint over the inked lines. Allow this coat to
cure completely before applying the final
clearcoat over the entire model.
That’s it; you now have a nicely detailed
sport model that stands out from the rest.
It’s time to get out flying; the summer’s
wasting. See you at the next jet meet. MA
TOLL FREE PHONE: 800-332-3256 • TOLL FREE FAX: 800-409-9191
1500 S.W. 30th Avenue, Suite 3 • Boynton Beach, Florida 33426, U.S.A.
Phone: 561-998-0004 • Fax: 561-998-0119
Email: [email protected] • Web: http://www.bocabearings.com
FREEDOM FROM FREIGHT.
Now you can call Boca Bearing toll free from anywhere in the U.S. and Canada to order one, or even a hundred bearings
from our inventory of over 2 million bearings.
Free Freight on All Orders Shipped in the U.S. and Canada!
It’s a Revolutionary New Way to Buy Your Engine Replacement Bearings!
Nuevo
Sitio en
Español!
Place Your Order on the Web: www.bocabearings.com
Ceramic Engine Bearings Now Available For All Of The Most Popular Heli's
Call for special pricing.
Buy 3 get 1 free!
MADISON COMPONENTS • 1-800-811-9135
1059 Valley Crest Drive, Birmingham, AL 35226
www.qualityrcproducts.com
Think of it as Insurance
for your Aircraft.
Constantly Monitors
• Battery Under Load
• Servos
• Switch/Harness
• Crystal
• Tuning Circuit
• Filter
• Unconditional Lifetime Warranty
• Dealer Inquiries Invited.
• U.S. Distributor
GEM 2000
The Electronic Guardian!
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:36 pm Page 131
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
August 2003 129
THE NEW turbine engines keep coming.
JetCat USA has announced its new P-70: a
lightweight, small-diameter turbine designed
to fit the 15- to 18-pound-thrust applications.
It’s slightly larger than the MW54 turbine, but
smaller in diameter than the P-80.
The P-70 features all of the amenities we
have come to expect from JetCat including
onboard autostart, onboard data collection
within the ECU (engine control unit) allowing
recording of operating parameters, and
display of troubleshooting codes when
required.
Frank Tiano is now in the turbine business
with his improved rendition of the RAM
turbine line and the TJT 3000. The FTE 500
is a 12-pound-thrust turbine and the FTE 750
is a 22-pound-thrust turbine. The TJT 3000
from Australia, imported by Frank, is a 271⁄2-
pound-thrust turbine. All of these engines are
available with an onboard autostart feature.
For additional information, visit Frank’s
Web site at www.franktiano.com. You will
see that he has many products for the Scale
and jet modeler.
While at Florida Jets earlier this year, I got a
firsthand look at some new turbine models on
the market. Tom Cook’s new Jet Model
Products Hustler was completely painted and
flying. This is one large sport model with
moderate landing speeds. The wingspan is
811⁄2 inches, and there is a lot of wing area to
match.
Designed to handle big turbine power, this
model has a sophisticated, strong,
prefabricated composite airframe. The kit
comes complete with composite landing-gear
doors, flaps, and all control surfaces. Rugged
landing-gear systems have always been a Jet
Model Products trademark, and the robust
Jim Hiller, 6090 Downs Rd., Champion OH 44481
RADIO CONTROL JETS
Sung Su Kim’s Golden West Models A-37 Dragonfly won Critics’ Choice Award at Florida Jets. The builder is Henry Nguyen.
Tom Cook flew the Jet Model Products Hustler prototype at Florida Jets. This is a large,
lightweight, composite airframe for the sport modeler.
Malcolm Kaye brought this Aviation Design Gryphon to this year’s Florida Jets event
and showed us how well this unusual aircraft flies.
08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 129
gear under the Hustler is made for the job.
There is not a weak link in this design.
If you dislike cramming all of the radio,
fuel systems, and turbine equipment into the
small fuselages of the average sport jet, the
Hustler is for you. When Tom opens the
hatch on this aircraft, you can’t believe the
extra space. The fuselage is large, and the fuel
tanks are contained in the wing strakes rather
than in front of the turbine. This opens up all
that space. You have room to move in this
fuselage.
Check out the new Hustler at the Jet
Model Products Web site: www.jetmodel
products.com. Tom is again setting the
standard in kit design and fabrication.
Malcolm Kaye is bringing the Aviation
Design line of models to North America, and
he showed up at Florida Jets with a new
Gryphon sport jet. He put it in flight to show
us how well it flies.
This is a rather unusual model; it is a
canard design with a semicowled turbine. A
cover partially hides the turbine, but enough
is exposed so that no inlet or tailpipe is
utilized.
This is a large model with an 80-inch
wingspan and a large fuselage. It has great
presence sitting on the ground waiting to fly,
and it has a neat look. This model is a bit hard
to describe, but you can find additional
information at Aviation Design’s Web site at
www.adjets.com.
Do you think your jet is looking a little
boring and you’re ready to dress it up for
show? Where do you begin?
A couple of months ago I visited ProMark
Graphics and discussed some of the excellent
dry-transfer decals for sport and Scale jets.
Let’s start with that thought and build from
there.
I like to begin by looking at jets with paint
schemes similar to that on my model. If it is a
military jet, I pull out some pictures of fullscale
military jets to see what markings they
use and where they use them. If it is a sport
jet, I start with pictures of other modelers’ jets
and pictures of the many civilian-operated,
full-scale jets.
Some things you usually find are fueling
instructions at the fuel caps, ejection-seat
warnings, and intake warnings. It is typical to
find instruction-type lettering such as
“Battery Drain Here,” “Hydraulic Oil
Information,” “Static Ports,” and of course,
“No Step.”
What else do you always see in these
pictures? Panel lines. These can be almost as
simple to apply as the instruction graphics. It
is just a matter of how sophisticated you want
to get.
A typical competition Scale modeler goes
all out and creates three-dimensional panel
lines using thin line masking before painting
or lines scribed into the paint. He or she then
follows that with color shading in the grooved
panel line itself and on the individual panels.
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08sig5.QXD 5.23.03 12:35 pm Page 130
August 2003 131
Likewise, rivets, screws, and other access
panels are made with depth. But we want to
dress up our model for appearance, not design
for competition Scale, so let’s use a simpler
method.
I like to use the old tried-and-proven
technique of drawn panel lines on my sport
models. Again, you have some options.
Graphics suppliers such as ProMark Graphics
provide dry transfers with panels, panel lines,
rivets, and screws. If you prefer the drytransfer
process, the products are readily
available to make it happen.
A panel line can be drawn with special
pens and India ink, or you can simplify the
process and use a soft pencil or an ultra-finepoint
permanent marker, such as the Sanford
Slimline, found in the stationery supply
departments of most department stores.
The pencil line looks good on the typical
military-gray model, highlighting the panel
line without making it stand out too strong.
Mistakes can be erased easily. You can
protect the pencil line with clearcoat paint
quite easily; the clear solvents do not affect
the pencil line.
An ink-drawn line, typically black, stands
out boldly on the model. It would be out of
place on a Scale model, but we aren’t
detailing a Scale model; we are adding
graphics to our sport models. The strong
contrast will make our artistic effort stand out.
Lines can be corrected by erasing the ink
with isopropyl alcohol. Use care when
applying the final clearcoat because the
solvents can attack the ink and ruin your
work.
Now say you’ve decided to add panel
lines. Where do you begin? Consider the
tools. You need a good, flexible straightedge
raised approximately 1⁄32 inch above the
surface. I have an 18-inch flexible stainlesssteel
ruler with a thin cork backing that works
great for all but the curved fuselage lines.
For the curved panel lines such as the
vertical lines on the fuselage, I make a custom
straightedge. I cut some thin plastic sheet
roughly 2 inches wide and apply a couple of
layers of masking tape to the back side to
space it away from the surface. Why space it
off the surface? This is to keep the ink from
wicking under the straightedge and ruining
that perfectly drawn line.
Prepare the model for panel lines. If you
are using ink, you will need to remove the
surface shine from the model. The ink will not
adhere to a smooth painted surface. Use
1,500-grit sandpaper to completely wet-sand
the surface of the model to eliminate all shiny
surfaces. This provides the additional benefit
of sanding off all of the orange peel from the
finish. An old tip is to add a few drops of dish
soap to your water to lubricate the sandpaper.
It works really well.
Where do you put the panel lines? Look at
those pictures again and develop your plan.
Typically, the wing has some spanwise
lines—one a few inches back from the leading
edge, another at the high point, and maybe
even one just ahead of the ailerons.
Use your imagination; this is not a Scale
model, so you can’t be wrong. A couple of
lines parallel to the airstream break up the
wing nicely. Use a similar technique on the
stabilizers and fin. The fuselage really isn’t
much different except that it usually has some
panel lines vertical around the fuselage. Break
up these lines when you get to a difficult
inside curve such as a wing fillet, including
the inlet duct fillet, to avoid difficult
situations.
Use a ruler to measure the beginning and
ending points of all of your panel lines so that
they will be symmetrical on either side of the
model. Carefully line up your straightedge
before applying the ink, then go to it. With a
permanent marker it takes approximately
three passes to get a good, solid line. Use care
not to shift the straightedge and to hold the
pen at the same angle as you retrace your path
to fill in the line completely.
Drawing the panel lines goes quickly. I
usually spend one night drawing these lines
on the model. I follow up on a second night
adding details such as hatches, rivets, or
screws, although today it is much easier to put
rivets and screws on with dry-transfer
graphics.
The ink drawing is complete, so protect all
of that work. The inked lines are susceptible
to damage from the solvents in paints, so start
with some very thin, dry mist coats of clear
paint over the inked lines. Allow this coat to
cure completely before applying the final
clearcoat over the entire model.
That’s it; you now have a nicely detailed
sport model that stands out from the rest.
It’s time to get out flying; the summer’s
wasting. See you at the next jet meet. MA
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