RADIO CONTROL JETS - 2003/10

134 MODEL AVIATION
I HAVE NEWS about turbines and more
turbines—not just for jets, but for helicopters
and turboprops as well. Two new turbine
helicopter engines and two turboprop engines
are now available.
JetCat brought us the first turbine
helicopter engine, demonstrated this year by
Jason Somes. Now Wren Turbines Ltd.
brings us a version of its highly successful
MW54 with a power takeoff for helicopter
and turboprop use. Adding to this selection,
JD Enterprises (JDE) is marketing a version
of the MW54 with a power takeoff developed
from the original Wren system.
Larry Wolfe of Jet Hangar Hobbies is
now distributing the Wren turbine products.
This is a great fit with his existing line of
ducted-fan models, including his Almost
Ready-to-Fly BAe Hawk. The Wren products
include the 7-pound-thrust MW44 turbine,
the 12-pound-thrust MW54 turbine, and the
MW54 turboprop unit which is adaptable to
helicopter use.
Larry is adding turbine conversions to his
popular aircraft line designed around the use
of these Wren products. All Wren turbines
are available as kits or preassembled turbines,
with onboard starters as an option.
The Wren turboprop provides a unique
opportunity for those who are so inclined to
use it. It utilizes a second power shaft with its
own turbine to power it. This output shaft is
located on the opposite end from the
compressor, just as on many of the larger
turbine engines used in full-scale aircraft and
helicopter applications.
This second power shaft is geared down at
approximately a 14.5:1 ratio, allowing this
turboprop engine to turn an 18 x 6, threeblade
propeller at 9,300 rpm. The Wren
turboprop is intended for large aircraft with
roughly 100-inch wingspans.
From the sound of a full-scale turboprop
to the throttle characteristics associated with a
turboprop engine, the flying experience with
a Wren turboprop will be unique. The reports
coming from the people at Wren who are
flying a highly aerobatic model is that one
can expect awesome full-throttle power with
excellent throttle response from
approximately one-third throttle, up. The
acceleration from slow idle will—just as in
any turbine engine—require a few seconds to
respond.
You want awesome? This is it! To get the
latest information on the Wren turbines and
the turbine-capable model kits available from
Jet Hangar Hobbies, check out the company’s
Web site at www.jethangar.com or call (562)
467-0260.
Not to be outdone, JDE is building its
JDE 54 with an offering of a turboprop
turbine. The company will no longer be
selling Wren MW54 kits, but will offer its
own JDE 54 turbine. I suggest checking out
the JDE Web site at www.jdenterprise.net for
the latest information.
For helicopter modelers, this turboprop is
the same engine I saw fitted in a Century
helicopter at the Toledo show this year. This
should make a great combination in a
helicopter since the turboprop output shaft is
already geared down to a level similar to a
two-stroke engine.
Turbines for jet aircraft also keep coming!
Jesus Artes is entering production of his own
line of turbines, built in Mexico for the
American market. The JF-50 Bee, a 12-
pound-thrust turbine, and the JG-100
Eagle, a 27-pound-thrust turbine, have
received AMA approval.
Jim Hiller, 6090 Downs Rd., Champion OH 44481
RADIO CONTROL JETS
These are the latest efforts by Rod Snyder. The airbrush effects reflect Rod’s continuing
development of his painting skills and techniques.
Did Rod Snyder create this burnt-tailpipe effect with too many hot starts or with an
airbrush? Good detailing creates outstanding looks.
These turbines use the Intelligent Control
System electronic control unit, which is
capable, small, and complete with onboard
autostart capability. I have operated this
system and was impressed with its flexibility
and size. The fuel pump is also a quality
little unit.
The total turbine support package is
among the smallest on turbine engines to
date, creating a lightweight unit. I hope to
provide more details as soon as these
engines start shipping. Keep an eye on the
Artes Web site at www.artesjet.com for the
latest information.
Enough about the latest turbines; let’s get
back to adding more detail to that jet model
of yours. Let’s discuss an item all jets have:
the exhaust nozzle. Today’s tailpipes with
double-wall construction run cool enough
that we can detail-paint this area without
fear of the paint blistering from heat. Why
not give it a try?
I spent some time looking at my old
ducted-fan models, my current models, and
the models of some of the best builders at
the national jet meets. The variety of
exhaust-nozzle designs is great, but they all
maintain the same basic theme. The base
color is a shade of silver, and they have the
traditional turkey-feather design.
Just as in panel-line detailing, the best
place to start for ideas is other modelers’
creations and full-scale jet pictures. The
master at this technique—Rod Snyder—
creates the illusion that the exhaust nozzle
has been run hard, complete with all of the
smoke and heat discoloration that comes
with use. Rod and I shared notes at Florida
Jets this year, so following are some of our
combined thoughts.
When you look at pictures of full-scale
aircraft exhaust nozzles, notice the pattern of
the turkey feathers, the location of the rivets
or screws, and any radial support panel lines.
Also note the discoloration patterns and
colors; you will see a huge variation in the
amount of discoloration from heat and from
exhaust-smoke patterns. Choose an exhaust
nozzle you like and go forth with
confidence.
You have two basic options for the base
color of the exhaust nozzle: paint or metal
foil tape. Lately I have been using thin
aluminum tape as my initial step in creating
my exhaust nozzles. I like this method
because I can quickly add three-dimensional
detailing of the panel lines and the rivets.
Rod’s latest creation on his Bob Violett
Models Bandit is based on the metal foil
tape, allowing the three-dimensional effect
to enhance the impression of reality in his
jet’s exhaust nozzle.
Paint also makes a great base, provides a
larger selection of silver shades to match the
exhaust nozzle you are trying to duplicate,
and is easy to apply. The turkey-feather
panel lines and rivets can be applied in the
same manner as is used on the rest of the
airframe.
The next step—weathering the nozzle—
will add that realism to it. A common
October 2003 135
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mistake when weathering is using black
paint. This is the wrong color because pure
black seldom occurs in nature.
Let’s get back to those photos of full-scale
aircraft nozzles. They have two basic
discoloring effects: heat and smoke. The heat,
depending on the base metal, will darken the
metal and provide a light blue or reddish tint.
Mix a weathering color that will allow
you to duplicate the discoloration from heat.
Use an airbrush to apply this effect in the
appropriate places on the turkey feathers.
Heat discoloration varies fore and aft and in
relation to the turkey-feather panel
separations. You may find that the nozzle you
are duplicating does not suffer from heat
discoloration; only use this step if you really
need it.
The effects of smoke through the panel
separations appear in nearly all exhaust
nozzles, so this is the effect you will need to
enhance your model’s appearance. What
color should you use? Look at those pictures
closely; smoke discoloration tends to be
reddish-brown in color, its exact shade
determined by the turbine itself.
Rod Snyder’s Bandit exhaust nozzle is
shaded in almost a brownish-bronze color,
and only on the panels separating the main
turkey feathers. The effect is achieved by
masking off the main turkey panels and
painting only the thin separating panels. It is
so realistic that you would swear he has had a
couple of hot starts through that exhaust
nozzle.
Let’s say your nozzle has smoke-shaded
effects. Get out that airbrush again; mask off
the turkey panel lines, then lay down your
weathering paint. I have found that a brown
or tan, mixed with some black, provides a
nice look. Don’t get it too black, or it will
look like black paint and not smoke
discoloration. Vary the density as you move
back from the front, and add a little more at
the rear.
I normally follow this up with a darkening
spray pass around the back edge of the nozzle
to highlight the exit effect. If your nozzle has
an attachment ring at the front, you may want
to mask the ring off and run a light pass,
shading back from it.
What if you don’t have an airbrush? Don’t
let that stop you. Many of those fancy
exhaust nozzles you see at the jet meets were
actually painted with spray guns turned down
to a low setting. I’ve only had my airbrush
for a few years; all of my previous exhaust
nozzles were done with my spray gun and
careful masking.
Once you have completed your detailing
and weathering, seal the exhaust nozzle with
a coat of clear to prevent handling damage.
This extra effort will help set off your model.
It’s easy to add exhaust-nozzle detail to that
existing model you are flying every weekend.
A few hours of creative painting can go a
long way toward enhancing its appearance.
Enough for now; let’s light the turbines and
have some fun. And don’t forget, the
Superman gathering is only a few weeks
away, so pack up and stop by. MA
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