results, and I enjoy those gift certificates to the local hobby shop here
in Smyrna, Tennessee. We should all patronize our local hobby stores
whenever possible.
You can request engines, electronics, field equipment, or a new
canopy for contests and fly-ins; the list of hobby supplies is almost
endless. Leaving a catalog open or making a list and checking it twice
is a good idea.
Good luck, and I hope all of you have been good this year.
Piper PA-11: I’ve spent most of the month since I wrote the
November column working on the Cub’s wing. The full-scale aircraft
has metal strips on
both sides of the
upper wing, to cover
the joints at the
fuselage. It also has
metal covering for
the fuel tank in the
port wing panel.
One of the great
products in my shop
is Flite-Metal, which
is great for making
hatch covers,
nonstressed panels,
and many details.
This sticky-backed
aluminum tape is
easy to cut and work
with. Some modelers
cover entire airframes with it.
To use Flite-Metal, measure the area you need to cover. Use a
straightedge and a hobby knife to cut the appropriate-size panel. Make
sure there are no wrinkles in this section you are cutting.
With your first order of Flite-Metal, you can purchase the
burnishing tools that help make the stuff lay down over whatever
surface you choose. If you decide to cover an entire airframe, make
sure to adhere the material from back to front and bottom to top for the
best results.
One of the things I quickly learned is that Flite-Metal doesn’t like
open bay areas, such as those you find on many World War I and civil
airplanes. But you can overcome that with practice.
If you need to remove the covering once it is stuck to a painted
surface, you will need to pry it off—but it can be done. I was
concerned that the Nelson paint would come off with the aluminum
Also included in this column:
• Piper PA-11 Cub Special
construction
• Thoughts about Scale
competition
• Scale Soaring
• Book about a German
Luftwaffe squadron
Christmas is around the corner
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
This view of the author’s Piper PA-11 shows the wing mounts for
the struts; priming and painting are still required.
Stan has applied Flite-Metal around the PA-11’s wing-mount
points and for the wing-mounted fuel tank.
Bob Patton’s Scottish Bulldog at the 2009 Scale Nationals. He
designed and built it from scratch. To the author’s knowledge, no
plans are available.
Back from a serious accident, Billy Thompson took his new Balsa
USA 1/3-scale Fokker D.VII to the Nationals—its second contest.
WOW! Almost Christmastime already? It’s hard to believe that
another year is almost gone. This means that it’s time to make those
Christmas lists of the Scale goodies you want from Mr. Claus.
Thoughts and suggestions to my better half usually bring great
December 2009 111
12sig4.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 10:19 AM Page 111
tape, but it didn’t. Once that paint is on the model, it stays there, no
matter how hard you pull off or tug the tape. That’s good for both
products!
Once you have cut your panel, carefully lay it on the wing; work
slowly, to make sure you don’t end up with wrinkles. On the open
panel, I started from the middle and worked my way out. By the
second time I tried that method, it seemed to work well. Once I added
the panel, I put pressure on the different covered areas, adhering it to
the airframe.
It’s time to add more scale details to the PA-11, and soon it will be
ready to fly. Obtaining wing struts from Hobby Lobby didn’t work out,
since they have been out of stock for sometime. I had enough to make
two struts but needed four.
To improvise, I went to the local hobby shop and bought airfoilshaped
aluminum tubing that was close to the correct size. I measured
it to the length I needed, crimped one end, and drilled a hole for the
attachment screw. This piece will have to be bent, but you can see
where you need to attach it through the fabric if you marked the lower
wing.
After installing the struts, you can make the jury struts from plastic
tubing. It’s a good idea to add a bit of masking tape to the bottom of
each strut mounting point, to reduce the amount of chafing the fabric
can suffer from the aluminum.
Around Scale: As I write this, the 2009 AMA Nationals is in the
books. As I wrote in the last column, there is a new RC Scale National
Champion: Dennis Crooks. He has competed in the Nationals several
times and in many other contests. Dennis has been involved in Scale
modeling for as long as I can remember.
I was disturbed by the continued lack of entrants in Sportsman Scale
and the other “feeder” classes. Modelers learn the basics in those and
then go on to Expert, Designer, and FAI categories.
Scale competition has been changing for years and continues to do
so. In the 1960s, Scale aircraft went RC and the door was opened to
progress with regards to radio systems, servos, engines, and many other
technological advancements we’ve seen in many areas of the discipline.
Ducted fans came out strong in the 1980s, and the turbines did so
shortly thereafter. Several manufacturers led the way with designs that
were, in many cases, powered by propane.
Now most of those models run on regular jet aircraft fuel, just as
full-scale aircraft do. The latest big change seems to be the switch from
engines to electric power.
The ARFs also came along, and there has been a proliferation of
competition classes designed for them. But with the increase of ARFs
at contests, we are seeing a huge lack of kit- and scratch-built airplanes
in Scale competition. This isn’t only at the Nationals, but also seems to
be the case at many other US Scale events.
How do we increase Scale competition participation? With fly-ins
and workshops? A combination of contests and fly-ins or working with
a buddy to teach him or her how to construct and fly models? All of the
preceding?
What’s your idea? Let me know.
Scale Soaring: In reading several European
magazines, I’ve become intrigued by Scale
Soaring and the built-up models featured in
Flying Scale Models magazine. Aerotow
events and Slope Soaring are only a couple
of events I’ve seen in recent months.
Many of the sailplanes in those classes
span more than 140 inches and are built up,
while others are what we could classify as
ARFs. Designs such as the Bergfalke, ASK
series, and Mu line are just a few that are
available as plans.
Bookshelf: JG 27: Vol. IV (ISBN 83-60445-
12-5), published by Kagero of Poland, was
written by Marek J. Murawski. Squadron
imports the 121-page book.
This volume is the fourth in a series about
114 MODEL AVIATION
the different time periods of the JG 27
Luftwaffe squadron in World War II. It covers
the pilots, the aircraft, and the conditions in
which they operated. If you are interested in
Bf 109s—especially the F and G models—this
book is a good source of documentation and
interesting history.
The cover features a painting of Red 13,
piloted by Heinrich Bartels with 22./JG 27,
which is a Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6. The
same aircraft is shown on the back cover, with
both left- and right-side views.
One view shows the aircraft in flight with
the gear retracted and the external fuel tank,
while the right-side view depicts the airplane
sitting on the gear without the external tank.
This book contains four other color profiles of
different aircraft.
JG 27 begins in September 1942, with one
of Germany’s top aces—Hans-Joachim
Marseille—and his final combat and death.
Many other aces from this era of operations
are included.
There are few unique photos in this
volume. Many of the book’s pictures are
often-printed photographs from archives. The
only image of Marseille’s 109 is that of the
rudder, showing the kill markings. At least
one photo of the airframe should have been
included.
Regardless, the artwork is excellent.
Decals are provided for different aircraft, and
they could be enlarged for individual use.
From a modeling standpoint, I would like to
have seen larger pictures and more color side
panels of those photos.
Merry Christmas! Fair skies and
tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Flite-Metal:
Ed Clayman
16115 Espinosa Dr.
Houston TX 77083
www.flitemetal.com
Flying Scale Models:
www.modelactivitypress.com
RC Scale sailplanes:
Composite Scale Models
www.compositescalemodels.com
Squadron
(877) 414-0434
www.squadron.com
Upcoming Scale contests, Scale-related
information:
National Association of Scale Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 111,112,114
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 111,112,114
results, and I enjoy those gift certificates to the local hobby shop here
in Smyrna, Tennessee. We should all patronize our local hobby stores
whenever possible.
You can request engines, electronics, field equipment, or a new
canopy for contests and fly-ins; the list of hobby supplies is almost
endless. Leaving a catalog open or making a list and checking it twice
is a good idea.
Good luck, and I hope all of you have been good this year.
Piper PA-11: I’ve spent most of the month since I wrote the
November column working on the Cub’s wing. The full-scale aircraft
has metal strips on
both sides of the
upper wing, to cover
the joints at the
fuselage. It also has
metal covering for
the fuel tank in the
port wing panel.
One of the great
products in my shop
is Flite-Metal, which
is great for making
hatch covers,
nonstressed panels,
and many details.
This sticky-backed
aluminum tape is
easy to cut and work
with. Some modelers
cover entire airframes with it.
To use Flite-Metal, measure the area you need to cover. Use a
straightedge and a hobby knife to cut the appropriate-size panel. Make
sure there are no wrinkles in this section you are cutting.
With your first order of Flite-Metal, you can purchase the
burnishing tools that help make the stuff lay down over whatever
surface you choose. If you decide to cover an entire airframe, make
sure to adhere the material from back to front and bottom to top for the
best results.
One of the things I quickly learned is that Flite-Metal doesn’t like
open bay areas, such as those you find on many World War I and civil
airplanes. But you can overcome that with practice.
If you need to remove the covering once it is stuck to a painted
surface, you will need to pry it off—but it can be done. I was
concerned that the Nelson paint would come off with the aluminum
Also included in this column:
• Piper PA-11 Cub Special
construction
• Thoughts about Scale
competition
• Scale Soaring
• Book about a German
Luftwaffe squadron
Christmas is around the corner
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
This view of the author’s Piper PA-11 shows the wing mounts for
the struts; priming and painting are still required.
Stan has applied Flite-Metal around the PA-11’s wing-mount
points and for the wing-mounted fuel tank.
Bob Patton’s Scottish Bulldog at the 2009 Scale Nationals. He
designed and built it from scratch. To the author’s knowledge, no
plans are available.
Back from a serious accident, Billy Thompson took his new Balsa
USA 1/3-scale Fokker D.VII to the Nationals—its second contest.
WOW! Almost Christmastime already? It’s hard to believe that
another year is almost gone. This means that it’s time to make those
Christmas lists of the Scale goodies you want from Mr. Claus.
Thoughts and suggestions to my better half usually bring great
December 2009 111
12sig4.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 10:19 AM Page 111
tape, but it didn’t. Once that paint is on the model, it stays there, no
matter how hard you pull off or tug the tape. That’s good for both
products!
Once you have cut your panel, carefully lay it on the wing; work
slowly, to make sure you don’t end up with wrinkles. On the open
panel, I started from the middle and worked my way out. By the
second time I tried that method, it seemed to work well. Once I added
the panel, I put pressure on the different covered areas, adhering it to
the airframe.
It’s time to add more scale details to the PA-11, and soon it will be
ready to fly. Obtaining wing struts from Hobby Lobby didn’t work out,
since they have been out of stock for sometime. I had enough to make
two struts but needed four.
To improvise, I went to the local hobby shop and bought airfoilshaped
aluminum tubing that was close to the correct size. I measured
it to the length I needed, crimped one end, and drilled a hole for the
attachment screw. This piece will have to be bent, but you can see
where you need to attach it through the fabric if you marked the lower
wing.
After installing the struts, you can make the jury struts from plastic
tubing. It’s a good idea to add a bit of masking tape to the bottom of
each strut mounting point, to reduce the amount of chafing the fabric
can suffer from the aluminum.
Around Scale: As I write this, the 2009 AMA Nationals is in the
books. As I wrote in the last column, there is a new RC Scale National
Champion: Dennis Crooks. He has competed in the Nationals several
times and in many other contests. Dennis has been involved in Scale
modeling for as long as I can remember.
I was disturbed by the continued lack of entrants in Sportsman Scale
and the other “feeder” classes. Modelers learn the basics in those and
then go on to Expert, Designer, and FAI categories.
Scale competition has been changing for years and continues to do
so. In the 1960s, Scale aircraft went RC and the door was opened to
progress with regards to radio systems, servos, engines, and many other
technological advancements we’ve seen in many areas of the discipline.
Ducted fans came out strong in the 1980s, and the turbines did so
shortly thereafter. Several manufacturers led the way with designs that
were, in many cases, powered by propane.
Now most of those models run on regular jet aircraft fuel, just as
full-scale aircraft do. The latest big change seems to be the switch from
engines to electric power.
The ARFs also came along, and there has been a proliferation of
competition classes designed for them. But with the increase of ARFs
at contests, we are seeing a huge lack of kit- and scratch-built airplanes
in Scale competition. This isn’t only at the Nationals, but also seems to
be the case at many other US Scale events.
How do we increase Scale competition participation? With fly-ins
and workshops? A combination of contests and fly-ins or working with
a buddy to teach him or her how to construct and fly models? All of the
preceding?
What’s your idea? Let me know.
Scale Soaring: In reading several European
magazines, I’ve become intrigued by Scale
Soaring and the built-up models featured in
Flying Scale Models magazine. Aerotow
events and Slope Soaring are only a couple
of events I’ve seen in recent months.
Many of the sailplanes in those classes
span more than 140 inches and are built up,
while others are what we could classify as
ARFs. Designs such as the Bergfalke, ASK
series, and Mu line are just a few that are
available as plans.
Bookshelf: JG 27: Vol. IV (ISBN 83-60445-
12-5), published by Kagero of Poland, was
written by Marek J. Murawski. Squadron
imports the 121-page book.
This volume is the fourth in a series about
114 MODEL AVIATION
the different time periods of the JG 27
Luftwaffe squadron in World War II. It covers
the pilots, the aircraft, and the conditions in
which they operated. If you are interested in
Bf 109s—especially the F and G models—this
book is a good source of documentation and
interesting history.
The cover features a painting of Red 13,
piloted by Heinrich Bartels with 22./JG 27,
which is a Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6. The
same aircraft is shown on the back cover, with
both left- and right-side views.
One view shows the aircraft in flight with
the gear retracted and the external fuel tank,
while the right-side view depicts the airplane
sitting on the gear without the external tank.
This book contains four other color profiles of
different aircraft.
JG 27 begins in September 1942, with one
of Germany’s top aces—Hans-Joachim
Marseille—and his final combat and death.
Many other aces from this era of operations
are included.
There are few unique photos in this
volume. Many of the book’s pictures are
often-printed photographs from archives. The
only image of Marseille’s 109 is that of the
rudder, showing the kill markings. At least
one photo of the airframe should have been
included.
Regardless, the artwork is excellent.
Decals are provided for different aircraft, and
they could be enlarged for individual use.
From a modeling standpoint, I would like to
have seen larger pictures and more color side
panels of those photos.
Merry Christmas! Fair skies and
tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Flite-Metal:
Ed Clayman
16115 Espinosa Dr.
Houston TX 77083
www.flitemetal.com
Flying Scale Models:
www.modelactivitypress.com
RC Scale sailplanes:
Composite Scale Models
www.compositescalemodels.com
Squadron
(877) 414-0434
www.squadron.com
Upcoming Scale contests, Scale-related
information:
National Association of Scale Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 111,112,114
results, and I enjoy those gift certificates to the local hobby shop here
in Smyrna, Tennessee. We should all patronize our local hobby stores
whenever possible.
You can request engines, electronics, field equipment, or a new
canopy for contests and fly-ins; the list of hobby supplies is almost
endless. Leaving a catalog open or making a list and checking it twice
is a good idea.
Good luck, and I hope all of you have been good this year.
Piper PA-11: I’ve spent most of the month since I wrote the
November column working on the Cub’s wing. The full-scale aircraft
has metal strips on
both sides of the
upper wing, to cover
the joints at the
fuselage. It also has
metal covering for
the fuel tank in the
port wing panel.
One of the great
products in my shop
is Flite-Metal, which
is great for making
hatch covers,
nonstressed panels,
and many details.
This sticky-backed
aluminum tape is
easy to cut and work
with. Some modelers
cover entire airframes with it.
To use Flite-Metal, measure the area you need to cover. Use a
straightedge and a hobby knife to cut the appropriate-size panel. Make
sure there are no wrinkles in this section you are cutting.
With your first order of Flite-Metal, you can purchase the
burnishing tools that help make the stuff lay down over whatever
surface you choose. If you decide to cover an entire airframe, make
sure to adhere the material from back to front and bottom to top for the
best results.
One of the things I quickly learned is that Flite-Metal doesn’t like
open bay areas, such as those you find on many World War I and civil
airplanes. But you can overcome that with practice.
If you need to remove the covering once it is stuck to a painted
surface, you will need to pry it off—but it can be done. I was
concerned that the Nelson paint would come off with the aluminum
Also included in this column:
• Piper PA-11 Cub Special
construction
• Thoughts about Scale
competition
• Scale Soaring
• Book about a German
Luftwaffe squadron
Christmas is around the corner
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
This view of the author’s Piper PA-11 shows the wing mounts for
the struts; priming and painting are still required.
Stan has applied Flite-Metal around the PA-11’s wing-mount
points and for the wing-mounted fuel tank.
Bob Patton’s Scottish Bulldog at the 2009 Scale Nationals. He
designed and built it from scratch. To the author’s knowledge, no
plans are available.
Back from a serious accident, Billy Thompson took his new Balsa
USA 1/3-scale Fokker D.VII to the Nationals—its second contest.
WOW! Almost Christmastime already? It’s hard to believe that
another year is almost gone. This means that it’s time to make those
Christmas lists of the Scale goodies you want from Mr. Claus.
Thoughts and suggestions to my better half usually bring great
December 2009 111
12sig4.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 10:19 AM Page 111
tape, but it didn’t. Once that paint is on the model, it stays there, no
matter how hard you pull off or tug the tape. That’s good for both
products!
Once you have cut your panel, carefully lay it on the wing; work
slowly, to make sure you don’t end up with wrinkles. On the open
panel, I started from the middle and worked my way out. By the
second time I tried that method, it seemed to work well. Once I added
the panel, I put pressure on the different covered areas, adhering it to
the airframe.
It’s time to add more scale details to the PA-11, and soon it will be
ready to fly. Obtaining wing struts from Hobby Lobby didn’t work out,
since they have been out of stock for sometime. I had enough to make
two struts but needed four.
To improvise, I went to the local hobby shop and bought airfoilshaped
aluminum tubing that was close to the correct size. I measured
it to the length I needed, crimped one end, and drilled a hole for the
attachment screw. This piece will have to be bent, but you can see
where you need to attach it through the fabric if you marked the lower
wing.
After installing the struts, you can make the jury struts from plastic
tubing. It’s a good idea to add a bit of masking tape to the bottom of
each strut mounting point, to reduce the amount of chafing the fabric
can suffer from the aluminum.
Around Scale: As I write this, the 2009 AMA Nationals is in the
books. As I wrote in the last column, there is a new RC Scale National
Champion: Dennis Crooks. He has competed in the Nationals several
times and in many other contests. Dennis has been involved in Scale
modeling for as long as I can remember.
I was disturbed by the continued lack of entrants in Sportsman Scale
and the other “feeder” classes. Modelers learn the basics in those and
then go on to Expert, Designer, and FAI categories.
Scale competition has been changing for years and continues to do
so. In the 1960s, Scale aircraft went RC and the door was opened to
progress with regards to radio systems, servos, engines, and many other
technological advancements we’ve seen in many areas of the discipline.
Ducted fans came out strong in the 1980s, and the turbines did so
shortly thereafter. Several manufacturers led the way with designs that
were, in many cases, powered by propane.
Now most of those models run on regular jet aircraft fuel, just as
full-scale aircraft do. The latest big change seems to be the switch from
engines to electric power.
The ARFs also came along, and there has been a proliferation of
competition classes designed for them. But with the increase of ARFs
at contests, we are seeing a huge lack of kit- and scratch-built airplanes
in Scale competition. This isn’t only at the Nationals, but also seems to
be the case at many other US Scale events.
How do we increase Scale competition participation? With fly-ins
and workshops? A combination of contests and fly-ins or working with
a buddy to teach him or her how to construct and fly models? All of the
preceding?
What’s your idea? Let me know.
Scale Soaring: In reading several European
magazines, I’ve become intrigued by Scale
Soaring and the built-up models featured in
Flying Scale Models magazine. Aerotow
events and Slope Soaring are only a couple
of events I’ve seen in recent months.
Many of the sailplanes in those classes
span more than 140 inches and are built up,
while others are what we could classify as
ARFs. Designs such as the Bergfalke, ASK
series, and Mu line are just a few that are
available as plans.
Bookshelf: JG 27: Vol. IV (ISBN 83-60445-
12-5), published by Kagero of Poland, was
written by Marek J. Murawski. Squadron
imports the 121-page book.
This volume is the fourth in a series about
114 MODEL AVIATION
the different time periods of the JG 27
Luftwaffe squadron in World War II. It covers
the pilots, the aircraft, and the conditions in
which they operated. If you are interested in
Bf 109s—especially the F and G models—this
book is a good source of documentation and
interesting history.
The cover features a painting of Red 13,
piloted by Heinrich Bartels with 22./JG 27,
which is a Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6. The
same aircraft is shown on the back cover, with
both left- and right-side views.
One view shows the aircraft in flight with
the gear retracted and the external fuel tank,
while the right-side view depicts the airplane
sitting on the gear without the external tank.
This book contains four other color profiles of
different aircraft.
JG 27 begins in September 1942, with one
of Germany’s top aces—Hans-Joachim
Marseille—and his final combat and death.
Many other aces from this era of operations
are included.
There are few unique photos in this
volume. Many of the book’s pictures are
often-printed photographs from archives. The
only image of Marseille’s 109 is that of the
rudder, showing the kill markings. At least
one photo of the airframe should have been
included.
Regardless, the artwork is excellent.
Decals are provided for different aircraft, and
they could be enlarged for individual use.
From a modeling standpoint, I would like to
have seen larger pictures and more color side
panels of those photos.
Merry Christmas! Fair skies and
tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Flite-Metal:
Ed Clayman
16115 Espinosa Dr.
Houston TX 77083
www.flitemetal.com
Flying Scale Models:
www.modelactivitypress.com
RC Scale sailplanes:
Composite Scale Models
www.compositescalemodels.com
Squadron
(877) 414-0434
www.squadron.com
Upcoming Scale contests, Scale-related
information:
National Association of Scale Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
