94 MODEL AVIATION
WHAT TO MODEL? Where can you obtain a kit to build a Scale
model? The latter question has been in my e-mail box several times
in the past few months.
Top Flite still has a kit line, with an assortment of both civil and
military aircraft. Balsa USA has one of the larger affordable series
of kits of World War I models I’ve seen. Arizona Model Aircrafters
and Proctor Enterprises also have extensive kit lines for WW I fans.
One of the questions I’ve received is, “I’ve been modeling for
many years now and want to start Scale modeling, but I would like
to have a kit of a .60 size model instead of one of the 100-inch
wingspan airplanes; who has kits like this?”
There are several sources for what you want. Many of the
smaller kits that were available have been converted to ARFs, such
as Skyshark R/C’s scale line, which the company sold. We are
seeing those same kits return, including the Grumman Avenger, in
advertisements as ARFs.
A factor in building a small or 60-size Scale aircraft is the field
where you fly. Many of us are limited to the scale and, in some
cases, the types of airplanes we fly because of our fields’
limitations. You wouldn’t want to put
$20,000 into a turbine-powered jet and try
to fly it from a 300-foot grass field.
In many places where the field is rough
Also included in this column:
• Sources for kits
• Piper PA-11
• Upcoming events
What aircraft should you model?
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
Above: The form, 1 x 4 wood block, and tools the author used to
craft the PA-11’s hubcaps. He handcrafted them using 10/1000
plastic, molded with a heat gun.
Above: Stan trims the hubcaps’ outer edges and then
gently sands them to make them even on the sides
that attach to the wheels.
Right: The author made this entry step on the
fuselage’s starboard side from clothes-hanger wire.
He used epoxy to adhere it. This is a simple way to
add scale detailing.
or doesn’t have pavement, you will see high-wing aircraft. Other
designs have overfly issues, where a fast fighter or jet can get
away and out of sight, so selecting an appropriate airplane is
critical to your enjoyment as you build and fly it.
A supplier that has gotten better throughout the years is Bob
Holman Plans. He sells plans, parts, and semikits for several
designers, including Jerry Bates, Brian Taylor, and Dennis Bryant.
Many of the aircraft Bob sells are roughly 60 size and have
been around for a few decades. Having the plans, cowlings,
canopies, and other parts available help speed any Scale model’s
construction. The amount of detail you add is up to you.
Building smaller or larger electric-powered Scale aircraft is
another option. There is an increasing number of such kits on the
market for Scale modelers.
Hobby Lobby has carried electrics for a long time, both in
ARF and kit form. But many times you can find a particular
model that interests you from the smaller suppliers. Sometimes
that means it’s slightly different or a type you don’t see everyday.
03sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 1/25/10 1:27 PM Page 94
One such company is Manzano Laser Works. Vicki and Charlie
Bice have a string of smaller electric-power kits for both indoors
and out.
The company sells designs by Peter Rake, who writes regular
columns in Flying Scale Models magazine in England, and other
noted designers such as Marcus and Alexander Thorn. All of their
kits are laser cut and have the plastic parts included.
If you can get Flying Scale Models, the plans therein come out
and you don’t have to purchase them. Some of the subjects include
a 43-inch F.E.8, a 42-inch Morane-Saulnier Type AI, a 50-inch
1913 Ponnier Racer, and more. Check out the Web site or make a
call.
Other kit producers include FunAero RC, which has a few WW
I aircraft, and Top Notch Models, which carries some smaller scale
kits for electric power. There’s a great deal out there to choose
from; you just might have to do some digging for what you want.
Piper PA-11: The supplied landing gear for my Piper Cub will
work okay with the PA-11, but I made a few changes, including
adding wire and other details, so it is more scale. The tail wheel is
basically stock.
Du-Bro has a set of Cub tires that will work well with the PA-
11, and I selected them for this project. The hubcaps included
with the wheels didn’t match my model, so I thought about
replacements or from what I could fabricate them.
Making a simple form or plug to produce a limited number of
parts was no problem. To begin, measure the width of the wheel
cover and cut a piece of balsa to that size. In my case, it was 1
inch. Use an X-Acto knife to cut off the edges, and start sanding
the balsa block.
At some point, you will need to drill a hole in the center
bottom side of the hub block. Be sure not to go all the way
through.
You can use a wheel collar secured to the drill bit to make sure
you don’t go through the outside of the block. Give yourself
roughly 1/4 inch of clearance from the front of the block.
Adhere a 4- to 6-inch hardwood dowel into the bottom of the
block and let it cure. I used plain Elmer’s woodworking glue for
this. When that dries, mount the stick end in your portable electric
drill. Use a sanding block and start rounding the edges, being
careful to take your time.
I used coarse sandpaper on the block at first and changed to
200 grit for final-sanding. I didn’t coat the balsa plug or use
sealers; if it’s sanded to be smooth, that will work.
When you are satisfied with the shape of the hubcap mold,
glue the stick end into a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4-inch block. I used 10/1000
sheet plastic (from the local hobby shop) and a heat gun to mold
the plastic over the form I made.
Pull the sheet tight on one side, and you can use a clamp or
small vise grips on the other side to tighten it over the form. Of
the several I made, four came out okay.
After trimming the forms with scissors and a sanding block, I
took some fiberglass and epoxy to the backside or inside of the
hubcaps. I painted them with Nelson Lockhaven Yellow, to match
the rest of the PA-11, and attached them to
the wheels with Zap Canopy Glue. It’s
flexible, and hopefully it will help keep
the hubcaps in place on hard landings.
We’ll see!
Around Scale: Many of us buy scale
ARFs, and they seem to go out of
production quickly in some instances. It
seems that many times the parts you want
and need are unavailable for the next
flying season. Sometimes it’s the retracts
or the cowling and maybe a wing panel or
canopy.
When you purchase your new ARF, go
ahead and purchase the cowling and
canopy. That way, you will have spare
parts when your model has, shall I say,
some togetherness with the ground.
If you wait until the next flying season,
it might be too late to get parts; sometimes
they are never available again. That could
make your airplane ugly or unflyable.
Upcoming Events: In many of the southern
states, the contest season is about to begin.
We are about to freeze here in Tennessee as
I write this, so April will be a welcome
change!
The Top Gun Invitational will be held
April 28-May 2 at the Lakeland Linder
Regional Airport in Florida. You can obtain
information about this competition on the
Frank Tiano Enterprises Web site.
A great place to get more information
about this event or those in your area is in
“Contest Calendar,” in the back of this
magazine. The calendar is also posted on
the AMA Web site.
On the Internet: Many of the companies
that service the Scale community are cottage
industries. In some cases, it doesn’t take
long before you get to know their owners
fairly well.
One of those companies, which has been
around for a long time, is Golden Era Model
Service. Jeff Eaton offers some rare aircraft
types, including an Aeronca LC and a
Culver Dart in both 1/3 and 1/4 scale. For the
jet pilots out there, he also sells the Vickers
Jockey Mk II and the Saab AJ 37 Viggen.
Fair skies and tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Top Flite
(800) 637-7660
www.top-flite.com
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Arizona Model Aircrafters
(602) 971-5646
www.arizonamodels.com
Proctor Enterprises
(503) 651-1918
www.proctor-enterprises.com
Bob Holman Plans
(909) 885-3959
www.bhplans.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
Manzano Laser Works
(505) 286-2640
www.manzanolaser.com
Flying Scale Models
01494-433453
www.flyingscalemodels.com
FunAero RC
(803) 499-5487
www.funaero.com
Top Notch Models
(615) 866-4327
www.topnotchkits.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Zap
(800) 538-3091
www.supergluecorp.com
Frank Tiano Enterprises
(863) 607-6611
www.franktiano.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
Golden Era Model Service
(530) 662-3698
www.yolo.net/~jeaton/gems/gems.htm
National Association of Scale
Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/03
Page Numbers: 94,95,96
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/03
Page Numbers: 94,95,96
94 MODEL AVIATION
WHAT TO MODEL? Where can you obtain a kit to build a Scale
model? The latter question has been in my e-mail box several times
in the past few months.
Top Flite still has a kit line, with an assortment of both civil and
military aircraft. Balsa USA has one of the larger affordable series
of kits of World War I models I’ve seen. Arizona Model Aircrafters
and Proctor Enterprises also have extensive kit lines for WW I fans.
One of the questions I’ve received is, “I’ve been modeling for
many years now and want to start Scale modeling, but I would like
to have a kit of a .60 size model instead of one of the 100-inch
wingspan airplanes; who has kits like this?”
There are several sources for what you want. Many of the
smaller kits that were available have been converted to ARFs, such
as Skyshark R/C’s scale line, which the company sold. We are
seeing those same kits return, including the Grumman Avenger, in
advertisements as ARFs.
A factor in building a small or 60-size Scale aircraft is the field
where you fly. Many of us are limited to the scale and, in some
cases, the types of airplanes we fly because of our fields’
limitations. You wouldn’t want to put
$20,000 into a turbine-powered jet and try
to fly it from a 300-foot grass field.
In many places where the field is rough
Also included in this column:
• Sources for kits
• Piper PA-11
• Upcoming events
What aircraft should you model?
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
Above: The form, 1 x 4 wood block, and tools the author used to
craft the PA-11’s hubcaps. He handcrafted them using 10/1000
plastic, molded with a heat gun.
Above: Stan trims the hubcaps’ outer edges and then
gently sands them to make them even on the sides
that attach to the wheels.
Right: The author made this entry step on the
fuselage’s starboard side from clothes-hanger wire.
He used epoxy to adhere it. This is a simple way to
add scale detailing.
or doesn’t have pavement, you will see high-wing aircraft. Other
designs have overfly issues, where a fast fighter or jet can get
away and out of sight, so selecting an appropriate airplane is
critical to your enjoyment as you build and fly it.
A supplier that has gotten better throughout the years is Bob
Holman Plans. He sells plans, parts, and semikits for several
designers, including Jerry Bates, Brian Taylor, and Dennis Bryant.
Many of the aircraft Bob sells are roughly 60 size and have
been around for a few decades. Having the plans, cowlings,
canopies, and other parts available help speed any Scale model’s
construction. The amount of detail you add is up to you.
Building smaller or larger electric-powered Scale aircraft is
another option. There is an increasing number of such kits on the
market for Scale modelers.
Hobby Lobby has carried electrics for a long time, both in
ARF and kit form. But many times you can find a particular
model that interests you from the smaller suppliers. Sometimes
that means it’s slightly different or a type you don’t see everyday.
03sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 1/25/10 1:27 PM Page 94
One such company is Manzano Laser Works. Vicki and Charlie
Bice have a string of smaller electric-power kits for both indoors
and out.
The company sells designs by Peter Rake, who writes regular
columns in Flying Scale Models magazine in England, and other
noted designers such as Marcus and Alexander Thorn. All of their
kits are laser cut and have the plastic parts included.
If you can get Flying Scale Models, the plans therein come out
and you don’t have to purchase them. Some of the subjects include
a 43-inch F.E.8, a 42-inch Morane-Saulnier Type AI, a 50-inch
1913 Ponnier Racer, and more. Check out the Web site or make a
call.
Other kit producers include FunAero RC, which has a few WW
I aircraft, and Top Notch Models, which carries some smaller scale
kits for electric power. There’s a great deal out there to choose
from; you just might have to do some digging for what you want.
Piper PA-11: The supplied landing gear for my Piper Cub will
work okay with the PA-11, but I made a few changes, including
adding wire and other details, so it is more scale. The tail wheel is
basically stock.
Du-Bro has a set of Cub tires that will work well with the PA-
11, and I selected them for this project. The hubcaps included
with the wheels didn’t match my model, so I thought about
replacements or from what I could fabricate them.
Making a simple form or plug to produce a limited number of
parts was no problem. To begin, measure the width of the wheel
cover and cut a piece of balsa to that size. In my case, it was 1
inch. Use an X-Acto knife to cut off the edges, and start sanding
the balsa block.
At some point, you will need to drill a hole in the center
bottom side of the hub block. Be sure not to go all the way
through.
You can use a wheel collar secured to the drill bit to make sure
you don’t go through the outside of the block. Give yourself
roughly 1/4 inch of clearance from the front of the block.
Adhere a 4- to 6-inch hardwood dowel into the bottom of the
block and let it cure. I used plain Elmer’s woodworking glue for
this. When that dries, mount the stick end in your portable electric
drill. Use a sanding block and start rounding the edges, being
careful to take your time.
I used coarse sandpaper on the block at first and changed to
200 grit for final-sanding. I didn’t coat the balsa plug or use
sealers; if it’s sanded to be smooth, that will work.
When you are satisfied with the shape of the hubcap mold,
glue the stick end into a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4-inch block. I used 10/1000
sheet plastic (from the local hobby shop) and a heat gun to mold
the plastic over the form I made.
Pull the sheet tight on one side, and you can use a clamp or
small vise grips on the other side to tighten it over the form. Of
the several I made, four came out okay.
After trimming the forms with scissors and a sanding block, I
took some fiberglass and epoxy to the backside or inside of the
hubcaps. I painted them with Nelson Lockhaven Yellow, to match
the rest of the PA-11, and attached them to
the wheels with Zap Canopy Glue. It’s
flexible, and hopefully it will help keep
the hubcaps in place on hard landings.
We’ll see!
Around Scale: Many of us buy scale
ARFs, and they seem to go out of
production quickly in some instances. It
seems that many times the parts you want
and need are unavailable for the next
flying season. Sometimes it’s the retracts
or the cowling and maybe a wing panel or
canopy.
When you purchase your new ARF, go
ahead and purchase the cowling and
canopy. That way, you will have spare
parts when your model has, shall I say,
some togetherness with the ground.
If you wait until the next flying season,
it might be too late to get parts; sometimes
they are never available again. That could
make your airplane ugly or unflyable.
Upcoming Events: In many of the southern
states, the contest season is about to begin.
We are about to freeze here in Tennessee as
I write this, so April will be a welcome
change!
The Top Gun Invitational will be held
April 28-May 2 at the Lakeland Linder
Regional Airport in Florida. You can obtain
information about this competition on the
Frank Tiano Enterprises Web site.
A great place to get more information
about this event or those in your area is in
“Contest Calendar,” in the back of this
magazine. The calendar is also posted on
the AMA Web site.
On the Internet: Many of the companies
that service the Scale community are cottage
industries. In some cases, it doesn’t take
long before you get to know their owners
fairly well.
One of those companies, which has been
around for a long time, is Golden Era Model
Service. Jeff Eaton offers some rare aircraft
types, including an Aeronca LC and a
Culver Dart in both 1/3 and 1/4 scale. For the
jet pilots out there, he also sells the Vickers
Jockey Mk II and the Saab AJ 37 Viggen.
Fair skies and tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Top Flite
(800) 637-7660
www.top-flite.com
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Arizona Model Aircrafters
(602) 971-5646
www.arizonamodels.com
Proctor Enterprises
(503) 651-1918
www.proctor-enterprises.com
Bob Holman Plans
(909) 885-3959
www.bhplans.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
Manzano Laser Works
(505) 286-2640
www.manzanolaser.com
Flying Scale Models
01494-433453
www.flyingscalemodels.com
FunAero RC
(803) 499-5487
www.funaero.com
Top Notch Models
(615) 866-4327
www.topnotchkits.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Zap
(800) 538-3091
www.supergluecorp.com
Frank Tiano Enterprises
(863) 607-6611
www.franktiano.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
Golden Era Model Service
(530) 662-3698
www.yolo.net/~jeaton/gems/gems.htm
National Association of Scale
Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/03
Page Numbers: 94,95,96
94 MODEL AVIATION
WHAT TO MODEL? Where can you obtain a kit to build a Scale
model? The latter question has been in my e-mail box several times
in the past few months.
Top Flite still has a kit line, with an assortment of both civil and
military aircraft. Balsa USA has one of the larger affordable series
of kits of World War I models I’ve seen. Arizona Model Aircrafters
and Proctor Enterprises also have extensive kit lines for WW I fans.
One of the questions I’ve received is, “I’ve been modeling for
many years now and want to start Scale modeling, but I would like
to have a kit of a .60 size model instead of one of the 100-inch
wingspan airplanes; who has kits like this?”
There are several sources for what you want. Many of the
smaller kits that were available have been converted to ARFs, such
as Skyshark R/C’s scale line, which the company sold. We are
seeing those same kits return, including the Grumman Avenger, in
advertisements as ARFs.
A factor in building a small or 60-size Scale aircraft is the field
where you fly. Many of us are limited to the scale and, in some
cases, the types of airplanes we fly because of our fields’
limitations. You wouldn’t want to put
$20,000 into a turbine-powered jet and try
to fly it from a 300-foot grass field.
In many places where the field is rough
Also included in this column:
• Sources for kits
• Piper PA-11
• Upcoming events
What aircraft should you model?
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Scale Stan Alexander
Above: The form, 1 x 4 wood block, and tools the author used to
craft the PA-11’s hubcaps. He handcrafted them using 10/1000
plastic, molded with a heat gun.
Above: Stan trims the hubcaps’ outer edges and then
gently sands them to make them even on the sides
that attach to the wheels.
Right: The author made this entry step on the
fuselage’s starboard side from clothes-hanger wire.
He used epoxy to adhere it. This is a simple way to
add scale detailing.
or doesn’t have pavement, you will see high-wing aircraft. Other
designs have overfly issues, where a fast fighter or jet can get
away and out of sight, so selecting an appropriate airplane is
critical to your enjoyment as you build and fly it.
A supplier that has gotten better throughout the years is Bob
Holman Plans. He sells plans, parts, and semikits for several
designers, including Jerry Bates, Brian Taylor, and Dennis Bryant.
Many of the aircraft Bob sells are roughly 60 size and have
been around for a few decades. Having the plans, cowlings,
canopies, and other parts available help speed any Scale model’s
construction. The amount of detail you add is up to you.
Building smaller or larger electric-powered Scale aircraft is
another option. There is an increasing number of such kits on the
market for Scale modelers.
Hobby Lobby has carried electrics for a long time, both in
ARF and kit form. But many times you can find a particular
model that interests you from the smaller suppliers. Sometimes
that means it’s slightly different or a type you don’t see everyday.
03sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 1/25/10 1:27 PM Page 94
One such company is Manzano Laser Works. Vicki and Charlie
Bice have a string of smaller electric-power kits for both indoors
and out.
The company sells designs by Peter Rake, who writes regular
columns in Flying Scale Models magazine in England, and other
noted designers such as Marcus and Alexander Thorn. All of their
kits are laser cut and have the plastic parts included.
If you can get Flying Scale Models, the plans therein come out
and you don’t have to purchase them. Some of the subjects include
a 43-inch F.E.8, a 42-inch Morane-Saulnier Type AI, a 50-inch
1913 Ponnier Racer, and more. Check out the Web site or make a
call.
Other kit producers include FunAero RC, which has a few WW
I aircraft, and Top Notch Models, which carries some smaller scale
kits for electric power. There’s a great deal out there to choose
from; you just might have to do some digging for what you want.
Piper PA-11: The supplied landing gear for my Piper Cub will
work okay with the PA-11, but I made a few changes, including
adding wire and other details, so it is more scale. The tail wheel is
basically stock.
Du-Bro has a set of Cub tires that will work well with the PA-
11, and I selected them for this project. The hubcaps included
with the wheels didn’t match my model, so I thought about
replacements or from what I could fabricate them.
Making a simple form or plug to produce a limited number of
parts was no problem. To begin, measure the width of the wheel
cover and cut a piece of balsa to that size. In my case, it was 1
inch. Use an X-Acto knife to cut off the edges, and start sanding
the balsa block.
At some point, you will need to drill a hole in the center
bottom side of the hub block. Be sure not to go all the way
through.
You can use a wheel collar secured to the drill bit to make sure
you don’t go through the outside of the block. Give yourself
roughly 1/4 inch of clearance from the front of the block.
Adhere a 4- to 6-inch hardwood dowel into the bottom of the
block and let it cure. I used plain Elmer’s woodworking glue for
this. When that dries, mount the stick end in your portable electric
drill. Use a sanding block and start rounding the edges, being
careful to take your time.
I used coarse sandpaper on the block at first and changed to
200 grit for final-sanding. I didn’t coat the balsa plug or use
sealers; if it’s sanded to be smooth, that will work.
When you are satisfied with the shape of the hubcap mold,
glue the stick end into a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4-inch block. I used 10/1000
sheet plastic (from the local hobby shop) and a heat gun to mold
the plastic over the form I made.
Pull the sheet tight on one side, and you can use a clamp or
small vise grips on the other side to tighten it over the form. Of
the several I made, four came out okay.
After trimming the forms with scissors and a sanding block, I
took some fiberglass and epoxy to the backside or inside of the
hubcaps. I painted them with Nelson Lockhaven Yellow, to match
the rest of the PA-11, and attached them to
the wheels with Zap Canopy Glue. It’s
flexible, and hopefully it will help keep
the hubcaps in place on hard landings.
We’ll see!
Around Scale: Many of us buy scale
ARFs, and they seem to go out of
production quickly in some instances. It
seems that many times the parts you want
and need are unavailable for the next
flying season. Sometimes it’s the retracts
or the cowling and maybe a wing panel or
canopy.
When you purchase your new ARF, go
ahead and purchase the cowling and
canopy. That way, you will have spare
parts when your model has, shall I say,
some togetherness with the ground.
If you wait until the next flying season,
it might be too late to get parts; sometimes
they are never available again. That could
make your airplane ugly or unflyable.
Upcoming Events: In many of the southern
states, the contest season is about to begin.
We are about to freeze here in Tennessee as
I write this, so April will be a welcome
change!
The Top Gun Invitational will be held
April 28-May 2 at the Lakeland Linder
Regional Airport in Florida. You can obtain
information about this competition on the
Frank Tiano Enterprises Web site.
A great place to get more information
about this event or those in your area is in
“Contest Calendar,” in the back of this
magazine. The calendar is also posted on
the AMA Web site.
On the Internet: Many of the companies
that service the Scale community are cottage
industries. In some cases, it doesn’t take
long before you get to know their owners
fairly well.
One of those companies, which has been
around for a long time, is Golden Era Model
Service. Jeff Eaton offers some rare aircraft
types, including an Aeronca LC and a
Culver Dart in both 1/3 and 1/4 scale. For the
jet pilots out there, he also sells the Vickers
Jockey Mk II and the Saab AJ 37 Viggen.
Fair skies and tailwinds. MA
Sources:
Top Flite
(800) 637-7660
www.top-flite.com
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Arizona Model Aircrafters
(602) 971-5646
www.arizonamodels.com
Proctor Enterprises
(503) 651-1918
www.proctor-enterprises.com
Bob Holman Plans
(909) 885-3959
www.bhplans.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
Manzano Laser Works
(505) 286-2640
www.manzanolaser.com
Flying Scale Models
01494-433453
www.flyingscalemodels.com
FunAero RC
(803) 499-5487
www.funaero.com
Top Notch Models
(615) 866-4327
www.topnotchkits.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Zap
(800) 538-3091
www.supergluecorp.com
Frank Tiano Enterprises
(863) 607-6611
www.franktiano.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
Golden Era Model Service
(530) 662-3698
www.yolo.net/~jeaton/gems/gems.htm
National Association of Scale
Aeromodelers
www.nasascale.org
