Author: Stan Alexander
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/03
Page Numbers: 94,95,96
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Radio Control Scale — Stan Alexander [[email protected]]

What aircraft should you model?

What to model? Where can you obtain a kit to build a scale model? The latter question has been in my e-mail box several times in the past few months.

Top Flite still has a kit line, with an assortment of both civil and military aircraft. Balsa USA offers one of the larger, affordable series of World War I kits I’ve seen. Arizona Model Aircrafters and Proctor Enterprises also have extensive kit lines for WWI fans.

A question I’ve received often is, “I’ve been modeling for many years and want to start scale modeling, but I would like a .60-size kit instead of a 100-inch wingspan airplane; who has kits like this?” There are several sources. Many smaller kits that were available have been converted to ARFs (for example, Skyshark R/C’s scale line). We are seeing some of those kits return as ARFs in ads, including the Grumman Avenger.

Field limitations often dictate what you can build. You wouldn’t want to put $20,000 into a turbine-powered jet and try to fly it from a 300-foot grass field. In rough or unpaved fields you’ll often see high-wing aircraft; fast fighters and jets can easily get away and out of sight, so selecting an appropriate airplane is critical to your enjoyment.

A supplier that has improved over the years is Bob Holman Plans. He sells plans, parts, and semikits for several designers, including Jerry Bates, Brian Taylor, and Dennis Bryant. Many of the aircraft Bob sells are roughly .60-size and have been around for decades. Having plans, cowlings, canopies, and other parts available helps speed any scale model’s construction. The amount of detail you add is up to you.

Building smaller or larger electric-powered scale aircraft is another option. There is an increasing number of kits on the market for scale modelers. Hobby Lobby has carried electrics for a long time, both as ARFs and kits. Smaller suppliers often offer models you won’t see everywhere.

One such company is Manzano Laser Works. Vicki and Charlie Bice offer a string of smaller electric-power kits for both indoors and outdoors. The company sells designs by Peter Rake (who writes regularly in Flying Scale Models magazine) and by other noted designers such as Marcus and Alexander Thorn. All of Manzano’s kits are laser-cut and include the plastic parts.

If you can get Flying Scale Models, the plans published there save you from buying individual plans. Recent subjects include a 43-inch F.E.8, a 42-inch Morane-Saulnier Type AI, a 50-inch 1913 Ponnier Racer, and more. Check the website or call for details.

Other kit producers include FunAero RC (a few WWI aircraft) and Top Notch Models (some smaller scale kits for electric power). There’s a lot out there; you may have to do some digging for what you want.

Piper PA-11

The supplied landing gear for my Piper Cub will work with the PA-11, but I made a few changes—adding wire and other details—to make it more scale. The tailwheel is essentially stock.

Du-Bro has a set of Cub tires that work well with the PA-11, and I selected those for this project. The hubcaps included with the wheels didn't match my model, so I considered replacements or fabricating my own.

I made a simple form (plug) to produce a limited number of hubcaps. The process:

  1. Measure the width of the wheel cover and cut a piece of balsa to that size (mine was 1 inch). Use an X-Acto knife to trim edges and begin sanding the block.
  2. Drill a hole in the center of the bottom side of the hub block, but do not go all the way through. Use a wheel collar on the drill bit to ensure you stop at the desired depth—leave roughly 1/4 inch of clearance from the front of the block.
  3. Adhere a 4- to 6-inch hardwood dowel into the bottom of the block (I used plain Elmer’s woodworking glue). When it cures, mount the dowel in a portable electric drill.
  4. Use a sanding block to round the edges. Start with coarse sandpaper and finish with 200-grit for a smooth surface. I didn't coat the balsa plug or use sealers; smooth sanding was sufficient.
  5. When satisfied with the mold shape, glue the stick end into a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 block. Use 10/1000-inch sheet plastic and a heat gun to mold the plastic over the form. Pull the sheet tight on one side and clamp or use small vise grips to tighten it over the form.
  6. Trim the formed pieces with scissors and refine with a sanding block. I got four acceptable hubcaps from several attempts.
  7. Reinforce the backside or inside of the hubcaps with fiberglass and epoxy. Paint them to match the model (I used Nelson Lockhaven Yellow) and attach them to the wheels with Zap Canopy Glue. It’s flexible and should help keep the hubcaps in place on hard landings.

Around Scale

Many of us buy scale ARFs, but they sometimes go out of production quickly. Often the parts you need—retracts, cowling, wing panels, or canopies—become unavailable for the next flying season. When you purchase a new ARF, buy extra cowlings and canopies so you have spares if your model has, shall we say, a close encounter with the ground. If you wait too long, parts may be gone for good, potentially leaving your airplane unsightly or unflyable.

Upcoming Events

In many southern states the contest season is about to begin. Here in Tennessee we’re still freezing as I write this, so April will be a welcome change!

The Top Gun Invitational will be held April 28–May 2 at Lakeland Linder Regional Airport in Florida. Information is available from Frank Tiano Enterprises.

A great place to find more information about this event or those in your area is the "Contest Calendar" in the back of this magazine. The calendar is also posted on the AMA website.

On the Internet

Many companies that serve the scale community are cottage industries, and you often get to know the owners personally. One long-running company is Golden Era Model Service. Jeff Eaton offers some rare types, including an Aeronca LC and a Culver Dart in both 1/3 and 1/4 scale. For jet pilots he sells the Vickers Jockey Mk II and the Saab AJ 37 Viggen.

Fair skies and tailwinds. — MA

Sources

Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.