In Part Two of this series, I will walk
you through the process of applying
clearcoat, which is more challenging than basecoat. This
nal coat will make or break your nal nish. (No pressure.)
Before I delve into the process of applying clearcoat, I will
describe a visualization concept that may help. As I mentioned
in Part One [in the April 2012 issue of MA], nothing can
replace experience and making a few mistakes of your own.
You will likely nd many interesting and personalized ways to
mess it up. Don’t worry; most can be xed with a little elbow
grease, so don’t let this deter you.
Think about spraying clearcoat out of your high-volume,
low-pressure (HVLP) spray gun as tiny droplets of liquid are
squirted onto the surface. The goal with applying clearcoat
is to spray enough material to turn those little droplets into
a solid coating, commonly referred to as owing. (I have
included a picture to illustrate this concept.)
Keep in mind that it is easy to go from tiny droplets, to
solid, glossy coating, to having the coating sag from too much
material. This is the art of spraying clear, which can be helped
with good urethane clears (630 ShopLine clear or PPG
DC3000), and plenty of practice.
In Part One, I left off with a beautiful basecoat and
personalized color scheme. The next step is to thoroughly
wet down a Scott shop towel with water and wipe down the
entire airplane. Do not wipe down dry or with wax and grease
remover; the darker basecoat colors can bleed or impregnate
the lighter colors. Wipe dry and blow off any dust with your
blow gun.
Another good trick is to use 2-inch masking tape to remove
akes generated from pulling up the ne-line tape. Gently
stick and remove at the edges of the colors, particularly the
letters. This will grab any loose material and help dull the edge
of the colors.
Use a tack cloth to wipe down the surfaces and again blow
off the airframe with your blow gun. Prepare the JC605
Basecoat blender by PPG Shop-Line and shoot enough
material of a coat of basecoat blender (basically a basecoat
clear) across the surfaces.
Good lighting is important when shooting clearcoat.
The re ection of the light off the surface is a good way to
determine if enough material has reached the surface. When
the clearcoat looks like glass, stop. When I say stop, I mean
stop. Don’t make another pass over the surface or become a
perfectionist; just stop. This is not as critical with the basecoat
blender, but this step will give you an opportunity to practice.
Allow the basecoat blender to dry or force it dry with a heat
gun. Always be careful with the heat gun because excess heat
can cause damage at this point. Once the basecoat blender is
dry, wet sand it with water and 600- to 1,000-grit sandpaper.
Lyle Larson uses 400-grit sandpaper regularly. My advice is to
start with the lighter 1,000-grit sandpaper and take your time.
The goal with this step is to minimize the edges of your
basecoat by sanding down the basecoat blender. If you start
to see color in the water while sanding, stop; you have sanded
through the basecoat blender and are only a few swipes
away from sanding through the basecoat. If this happens, you
may need to touch up the basecoat colors. The surface will
look dull again, but should be smooth. Do not be concerned
because the nal step will bring the dull surface back to life.
At this point, dust and particles are your enemy, along with
bugs, spiders, cobwebs, and anything else that will likely nd its
way to your freshly sprayed clearcoat. Preparing your garage or
booth is important. Consider misting the oor with water after
a thorough sweep. This can help keep those oor particles
from stirring up while you shoot the clearcoat. The clearcoats
de ned in Part One dry to a dust-free state in 5 to 10 minutes.
The nal step in this process is to
apply the 630 Shop-Line clear or PPG
DC3000 clearcoat. Wipe down the
model with a water-moistened Scott
shop towel again, blow it off with your
blow gun, use tack cloth to wipe it
down with wax and grease remover, and
blow it off one nal time with the blow
gun.
Mix your clearcoat with roughly
25% extra hardener or lacquer thinner
to thin the liquid from the factoryrecommended
mixture. A thinner coat is
a lighter coat, and because we get points
in this game for crossing the nish line
rst (and not for the shiniest nish),
thinner is better.
Apply two coats of clearcoat with
your HVLP gun. Use your well-lit
space to help determine when you have
shot enough material. A rough-looking
surface doesn’t have enough material.
There are many tutorials and techniques
online, and I encourage you to get a
second opinion for the mechanics of
shooting material.
Allow the clearcoat to thoroughly dry
overnight before handling your racer.
This process eliminates the need for
sanding and polishing.
The results Lyle produced on my
new Proud Bird II were nothing short of
amazing. It was, hands down, the best
clearcoat I have had on one of my racers.
Thanks, Lyle. (It was fast, too.)
Phoenix Q-40 Classic
The Phoenix Q-40 Classic, held
February 25-26, was hosted by the
SpeedWorld RC Flyers. The Classic is
the largest event of the season, with
80 registered pilots and typically three
to four days of practice, followed by
two days of heart-pounding, wingtiprubbing,
side-by-side Q-40 (AMA Event
422) racing action.
The 2012 event did not disappoint,
and pilots from eight countries
participated. The competition was erce,
carnage was high, and I do not think
anyone left the SpeedWorld facility
Sunday evening not thinking about
coming back next year to do it all over
again. I cannot wait!
My special thanks to the dedicated
SpeedWorld club members and to CD
Jim Allen. The contest runs like a precise
timepiece, with heats taking to the skies
every four minutes or so.
I had not raced Q-40 since May of
2011, so my focus was more about
catching up with old friends than
bringing a Kachina Doll Top 10 trophy
back home to South Dakota. I had not
seen many of my close racing friends and
family since the AMA Nats in July 2010.
Although I was excited to race, I looked
forward to spending time with them.
The awesome people keep me coming
back to RC Pylon Racing year after year.
After eight hard-fought rounds, the
pilot/caller team of Gary Schmidt and
Jim Allen stood at the top of the eld
with a perfect 32-point score, 1:02.75
quickest time, and the victory. While
we were watching sand drags at the
track next to the ying eld on Saturday
The winners from the 2012 Phoenix Q-40 Classic, an event in which 80 phenomenal racers from eight countries participated.
night, Gary mentioned to me that he
had been trying to win this contest for
15 years. Congratulations, Gary and Jim,
on a hard-fought and well-deserved win.
Thanks to my teammate Scott
Causey’s perfect calling performance, I
captured second place, with a quickest
time of 1:01.20—only one point behind
Gary. Scott did not call me a cut all
weekend and helped me turn 1:01 times
in five or six of the eight rounds. Dang, I
wish I was that good of a caller. Thanks,
Missile.
Ben Jones, from the United Kingdom,
showed us that his flying skills are not
just for the FAI F3D world; he can hang
with anyone in head-to-head racing
as well. Ben took third place back to
England with a best time of 1:03.64.
The man, prolific model designer,
NMPRA president, and all-around good
guy—Dan Kane—bested Rusty Van
Baren in a thrilling flyoff to take fourth
place with 1:03.27. Dan had a 50-foot
lead down the backstretch on the final
lap. Rusty pulled out all the last lap
tricks and closed the gap to less than
an airplane length. What a finish! Rusty
placed fifth with a 1:03.57.
Consistency, smoothness, and fast
flying earned pilot Tony Lopez and
caller Gino Del Ponte sixth place. Tony’s
Strega was on rails all weekend and took
down many of the Top 20 finishers. Tony
posted a 1:01.68 as his quickest time.
There was a five-way tie for seventh
place and the winner was decided by
two rounds of flyoffs. Jim Allen and
Chuck Andraka raced wingtip to wingtip
for 10 laps during Heat 1 of the flyoffs.
Jim’s wing let go and folded on the
final lap in spectacular fashion. This
quickly answered our questions about
whether he could have possibly been
flying his Dave English-built AR-6 any
harder. After three years of hard racing,
time had expired and the answer was no.
Lyle Larson, Tom Scott, and Gino Del
Ponte squared off in the second flyoff
heat for seventh place. Gino cut early
and decided to pull out. Tom and Lyle
duked it out, cut one apiece, and Lyle
secured the heat card with a win.
Lyle and Chuck put on another great
show in the final flyoff for seventh place.
Lyle finished seventh overall with a time
of 1:01.96, and Chuck Andraka placed
eighth with 1:02.12. Tom Scott came
home in ninth with a 1:03.75, followed
by Gino Del Ponte in 10th with 1:01.11.
Fast Time for the contest went to the
pilot/caller team of Dub Jett and John
Shannon, with a smoking-fast time of
1:01.03, which I didn’t even have to
look up. Why, you ask? Well, Dub turned
this time in a heat against yours truly,
taking me down a point by the length
of a fuselage, and nailing Fast Time for
the contest—a time I won’t soon forget.
Well done, Dub and John.
Until next time, race hard and have
fun.
SOURCES:
National Miniature Pylon Racing Association
www.nmpra.org
SpeedWorld R/C Flyers
www.speedworldrcf.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/06
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/06
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
In Part Two of this series, I will walk
you through the process of applying
clearcoat, which is more challenging than basecoat. This
nal coat will make or break your nal nish. (No pressure.)
Before I delve into the process of applying clearcoat, I will
describe a visualization concept that may help. As I mentioned
in Part One [in the April 2012 issue of MA], nothing can
replace experience and making a few mistakes of your own.
You will likely nd many interesting and personalized ways to
mess it up. Don’t worry; most can be xed with a little elbow
grease, so don’t let this deter you.
Think about spraying clearcoat out of your high-volume,
low-pressure (HVLP) spray gun as tiny droplets of liquid are
squirted onto the surface. The goal with applying clearcoat
is to spray enough material to turn those little droplets into
a solid coating, commonly referred to as owing. (I have
included a picture to illustrate this concept.)
Keep in mind that it is easy to go from tiny droplets, to
solid, glossy coating, to having the coating sag from too much
material. This is the art of spraying clear, which can be helped
with good urethane clears (630 ShopLine clear or PPG
DC3000), and plenty of practice.
In Part One, I left off with a beautiful basecoat and
personalized color scheme. The next step is to thoroughly
wet down a Scott shop towel with water and wipe down the
entire airplane. Do not wipe down dry or with wax and grease
remover; the darker basecoat colors can bleed or impregnate
the lighter colors. Wipe dry and blow off any dust with your
blow gun.
Another good trick is to use 2-inch masking tape to remove
akes generated from pulling up the ne-line tape. Gently
stick and remove at the edges of the colors, particularly the
letters. This will grab any loose material and help dull the edge
of the colors.
Use a tack cloth to wipe down the surfaces and again blow
off the airframe with your blow gun. Prepare the JC605
Basecoat blender by PPG Shop-Line and shoot enough
material of a coat of basecoat blender (basically a basecoat
clear) across the surfaces.
Good lighting is important when shooting clearcoat.
The re ection of the light off the surface is a good way to
determine if enough material has reached the surface. When
the clearcoat looks like glass, stop. When I say stop, I mean
stop. Don’t make another pass over the surface or become a
perfectionist; just stop. This is not as critical with the basecoat
blender, but this step will give you an opportunity to practice.
Allow the basecoat blender to dry or force it dry with a heat
gun. Always be careful with the heat gun because excess heat
can cause damage at this point. Once the basecoat blender is
dry, wet sand it with water and 600- to 1,000-grit sandpaper.
Lyle Larson uses 400-grit sandpaper regularly. My advice is to
start with the lighter 1,000-grit sandpaper and take your time.
The goal with this step is to minimize the edges of your
basecoat by sanding down the basecoat blender. If you start
to see color in the water while sanding, stop; you have sanded
through the basecoat blender and are only a few swipes
away from sanding through the basecoat. If this happens, you
may need to touch up the basecoat colors. The surface will
look dull again, but should be smooth. Do not be concerned
because the nal step will bring the dull surface back to life.
At this point, dust and particles are your enemy, along with
bugs, spiders, cobwebs, and anything else that will likely nd its
way to your freshly sprayed clearcoat. Preparing your garage or
booth is important. Consider misting the oor with water after
a thorough sweep. This can help keep those oor particles
from stirring up while you shoot the clearcoat. The clearcoats
de ned in Part One dry to a dust-free state in 5 to 10 minutes.
The nal step in this process is to
apply the 630 Shop-Line clear or PPG
DC3000 clearcoat. Wipe down the
model with a water-moistened Scott
shop towel again, blow it off with your
blow gun, use tack cloth to wipe it
down with wax and grease remover, and
blow it off one nal time with the blow
gun.
Mix your clearcoat with roughly
25% extra hardener or lacquer thinner
to thin the liquid from the factoryrecommended
mixture. A thinner coat is
a lighter coat, and because we get points
in this game for crossing the nish line
rst (and not for the shiniest nish),
thinner is better.
Apply two coats of clearcoat with
your HVLP gun. Use your well-lit
space to help determine when you have
shot enough material. A rough-looking
surface doesn’t have enough material.
There are many tutorials and techniques
online, and I encourage you to get a
second opinion for the mechanics of
shooting material.
Allow the clearcoat to thoroughly dry
overnight before handling your racer.
This process eliminates the need for
sanding and polishing.
The results Lyle produced on my
new Proud Bird II were nothing short of
amazing. It was, hands down, the best
clearcoat I have had on one of my racers.
Thanks, Lyle. (It was fast, too.)
Phoenix Q-40 Classic
The Phoenix Q-40 Classic, held
February 25-26, was hosted by the
SpeedWorld RC Flyers. The Classic is
the largest event of the season, with
80 registered pilots and typically three
to four days of practice, followed by
two days of heart-pounding, wingtiprubbing,
side-by-side Q-40 (AMA Event
422) racing action.
The 2012 event did not disappoint,
and pilots from eight countries
participated. The competition was erce,
carnage was high, and I do not think
anyone left the SpeedWorld facility
Sunday evening not thinking about
coming back next year to do it all over
again. I cannot wait!
My special thanks to the dedicated
SpeedWorld club members and to CD
Jim Allen. The contest runs like a precise
timepiece, with heats taking to the skies
every four minutes or so.
I had not raced Q-40 since May of
2011, so my focus was more about
catching up with old friends than
bringing a Kachina Doll Top 10 trophy
back home to South Dakota. I had not
seen many of my close racing friends and
family since the AMA Nats in July 2010.
Although I was excited to race, I looked
forward to spending time with them.
The awesome people keep me coming
back to RC Pylon Racing year after year.
After eight hard-fought rounds, the
pilot/caller team of Gary Schmidt and
Jim Allen stood at the top of the eld
with a perfect 32-point score, 1:02.75
quickest time, and the victory. While
we were watching sand drags at the
track next to the ying eld on Saturday
The winners from the 2012 Phoenix Q-40 Classic, an event in which 80 phenomenal racers from eight countries participated.
night, Gary mentioned to me that he
had been trying to win this contest for
15 years. Congratulations, Gary and Jim,
on a hard-fought and well-deserved win.
Thanks to my teammate Scott
Causey’s perfect calling performance, I
captured second place, with a quickest
time of 1:01.20—only one point behind
Gary. Scott did not call me a cut all
weekend and helped me turn 1:01 times
in five or six of the eight rounds. Dang, I
wish I was that good of a caller. Thanks,
Missile.
Ben Jones, from the United Kingdom,
showed us that his flying skills are not
just for the FAI F3D world; he can hang
with anyone in head-to-head racing
as well. Ben took third place back to
England with a best time of 1:03.64.
The man, prolific model designer,
NMPRA president, and all-around good
guy—Dan Kane—bested Rusty Van
Baren in a thrilling flyoff to take fourth
place with 1:03.27. Dan had a 50-foot
lead down the backstretch on the final
lap. Rusty pulled out all the last lap
tricks and closed the gap to less than
an airplane length. What a finish! Rusty
placed fifth with a 1:03.57.
Consistency, smoothness, and fast
flying earned pilot Tony Lopez and
caller Gino Del Ponte sixth place. Tony’s
Strega was on rails all weekend and took
down many of the Top 20 finishers. Tony
posted a 1:01.68 as his quickest time.
There was a five-way tie for seventh
place and the winner was decided by
two rounds of flyoffs. Jim Allen and
Chuck Andraka raced wingtip to wingtip
for 10 laps during Heat 1 of the flyoffs.
Jim’s wing let go and folded on the
final lap in spectacular fashion. This
quickly answered our questions about
whether he could have possibly been
flying his Dave English-built AR-6 any
harder. After three years of hard racing,
time had expired and the answer was no.
Lyle Larson, Tom Scott, and Gino Del
Ponte squared off in the second flyoff
heat for seventh place. Gino cut early
and decided to pull out. Tom and Lyle
duked it out, cut one apiece, and Lyle
secured the heat card with a win.
Lyle and Chuck put on another great
show in the final flyoff for seventh place.
Lyle finished seventh overall with a time
of 1:01.96, and Chuck Andraka placed
eighth with 1:02.12. Tom Scott came
home in ninth with a 1:03.75, followed
by Gino Del Ponte in 10th with 1:01.11.
Fast Time for the contest went to the
pilot/caller team of Dub Jett and John
Shannon, with a smoking-fast time of
1:01.03, which I didn’t even have to
look up. Why, you ask? Well, Dub turned
this time in a heat against yours truly,
taking me down a point by the length
of a fuselage, and nailing Fast Time for
the contest—a time I won’t soon forget.
Well done, Dub and John.
Until next time, race hard and have
fun.
SOURCES:
National Miniature Pylon Racing Association
www.nmpra.org
SpeedWorld R/C Flyers
www.speedworldrcf.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/06
Page Numbers: 129,130,131
In Part Two of this series, I will walk
you through the process of applying
clearcoat, which is more challenging than basecoat. This
nal coat will make or break your nal nish. (No pressure.)
Before I delve into the process of applying clearcoat, I will
describe a visualization concept that may help. As I mentioned
in Part One [in the April 2012 issue of MA], nothing can
replace experience and making a few mistakes of your own.
You will likely nd many interesting and personalized ways to
mess it up. Don’t worry; most can be xed with a little elbow
grease, so don’t let this deter you.
Think about spraying clearcoat out of your high-volume,
low-pressure (HVLP) spray gun as tiny droplets of liquid are
squirted onto the surface. The goal with applying clearcoat
is to spray enough material to turn those little droplets into
a solid coating, commonly referred to as owing. (I have
included a picture to illustrate this concept.)
Keep in mind that it is easy to go from tiny droplets, to
solid, glossy coating, to having the coating sag from too much
material. This is the art of spraying clear, which can be helped
with good urethane clears (630 ShopLine clear or PPG
DC3000), and plenty of practice.
In Part One, I left off with a beautiful basecoat and
personalized color scheme. The next step is to thoroughly
wet down a Scott shop towel with water and wipe down the
entire airplane. Do not wipe down dry or with wax and grease
remover; the darker basecoat colors can bleed or impregnate
the lighter colors. Wipe dry and blow off any dust with your
blow gun.
Another good trick is to use 2-inch masking tape to remove
akes generated from pulling up the ne-line tape. Gently
stick and remove at the edges of the colors, particularly the
letters. This will grab any loose material and help dull the edge
of the colors.
Use a tack cloth to wipe down the surfaces and again blow
off the airframe with your blow gun. Prepare the JC605
Basecoat blender by PPG Shop-Line and shoot enough
material of a coat of basecoat blender (basically a basecoat
clear) across the surfaces.
Good lighting is important when shooting clearcoat.
The re ection of the light off the surface is a good way to
determine if enough material has reached the surface. When
the clearcoat looks like glass, stop. When I say stop, I mean
stop. Don’t make another pass over the surface or become a
perfectionist; just stop. This is not as critical with the basecoat
blender, but this step will give you an opportunity to practice.
Allow the basecoat blender to dry or force it dry with a heat
gun. Always be careful with the heat gun because excess heat
can cause damage at this point. Once the basecoat blender is
dry, wet sand it with water and 600- to 1,000-grit sandpaper.
Lyle Larson uses 400-grit sandpaper regularly. My advice is to
start with the lighter 1,000-grit sandpaper and take your time.
The goal with this step is to minimize the edges of your
basecoat by sanding down the basecoat blender. If you start
to see color in the water while sanding, stop; you have sanded
through the basecoat blender and are only a few swipes
away from sanding through the basecoat. If this happens, you
may need to touch up the basecoat colors. The surface will
look dull again, but should be smooth. Do not be concerned
because the nal step will bring the dull surface back to life.
At this point, dust and particles are your enemy, along with
bugs, spiders, cobwebs, and anything else that will likely nd its
way to your freshly sprayed clearcoat. Preparing your garage or
booth is important. Consider misting the oor with water after
a thorough sweep. This can help keep those oor particles
from stirring up while you shoot the clearcoat. The clearcoats
de ned in Part One dry to a dust-free state in 5 to 10 minutes.
The nal step in this process is to
apply the 630 Shop-Line clear or PPG
DC3000 clearcoat. Wipe down the
model with a water-moistened Scott
shop towel again, blow it off with your
blow gun, use tack cloth to wipe it
down with wax and grease remover, and
blow it off one nal time with the blow
gun.
Mix your clearcoat with roughly
25% extra hardener or lacquer thinner
to thin the liquid from the factoryrecommended
mixture. A thinner coat is
a lighter coat, and because we get points
in this game for crossing the nish line
rst (and not for the shiniest nish),
thinner is better.
Apply two coats of clearcoat with
your HVLP gun. Use your well-lit
space to help determine when you have
shot enough material. A rough-looking
surface doesn’t have enough material.
There are many tutorials and techniques
online, and I encourage you to get a
second opinion for the mechanics of
shooting material.
Allow the clearcoat to thoroughly dry
overnight before handling your racer.
This process eliminates the need for
sanding and polishing.
The results Lyle produced on my
new Proud Bird II were nothing short of
amazing. It was, hands down, the best
clearcoat I have had on one of my racers.
Thanks, Lyle. (It was fast, too.)
Phoenix Q-40 Classic
The Phoenix Q-40 Classic, held
February 25-26, was hosted by the
SpeedWorld RC Flyers. The Classic is
the largest event of the season, with
80 registered pilots and typically three
to four days of practice, followed by
two days of heart-pounding, wingtiprubbing,
side-by-side Q-40 (AMA Event
422) racing action.
The 2012 event did not disappoint,
and pilots from eight countries
participated. The competition was erce,
carnage was high, and I do not think
anyone left the SpeedWorld facility
Sunday evening not thinking about
coming back next year to do it all over
again. I cannot wait!
My special thanks to the dedicated
SpeedWorld club members and to CD
Jim Allen. The contest runs like a precise
timepiece, with heats taking to the skies
every four minutes or so.
I had not raced Q-40 since May of
2011, so my focus was more about
catching up with old friends than
bringing a Kachina Doll Top 10 trophy
back home to South Dakota. I had not
seen many of my close racing friends and
family since the AMA Nats in July 2010.
Although I was excited to race, I looked
forward to spending time with them.
The awesome people keep me coming
back to RC Pylon Racing year after year.
After eight hard-fought rounds, the
pilot/caller team of Gary Schmidt and
Jim Allen stood at the top of the eld
with a perfect 32-point score, 1:02.75
quickest time, and the victory. While
we were watching sand drags at the
track next to the ying eld on Saturday
The winners from the 2012 Phoenix Q-40 Classic, an event in which 80 phenomenal racers from eight countries participated.
night, Gary mentioned to me that he
had been trying to win this contest for
15 years. Congratulations, Gary and Jim,
on a hard-fought and well-deserved win.
Thanks to my teammate Scott
Causey’s perfect calling performance, I
captured second place, with a quickest
time of 1:01.20—only one point behind
Gary. Scott did not call me a cut all
weekend and helped me turn 1:01 times
in five or six of the eight rounds. Dang, I
wish I was that good of a caller. Thanks,
Missile.
Ben Jones, from the United Kingdom,
showed us that his flying skills are not
just for the FAI F3D world; he can hang
with anyone in head-to-head racing
as well. Ben took third place back to
England with a best time of 1:03.64.
The man, prolific model designer,
NMPRA president, and all-around good
guy—Dan Kane—bested Rusty Van
Baren in a thrilling flyoff to take fourth
place with 1:03.27. Dan had a 50-foot
lead down the backstretch on the final
lap. Rusty pulled out all the last lap
tricks and closed the gap to less than
an airplane length. What a finish! Rusty
placed fifth with a 1:03.57.
Consistency, smoothness, and fast
flying earned pilot Tony Lopez and
caller Gino Del Ponte sixth place. Tony’s
Strega was on rails all weekend and took
down many of the Top 20 finishers. Tony
posted a 1:01.68 as his quickest time.
There was a five-way tie for seventh
place and the winner was decided by
two rounds of flyoffs. Jim Allen and
Chuck Andraka raced wingtip to wingtip
for 10 laps during Heat 1 of the flyoffs.
Jim’s wing let go and folded on the
final lap in spectacular fashion. This
quickly answered our questions about
whether he could have possibly been
flying his Dave English-built AR-6 any
harder. After three years of hard racing,
time had expired and the answer was no.
Lyle Larson, Tom Scott, and Gino Del
Ponte squared off in the second flyoff
heat for seventh place. Gino cut early
and decided to pull out. Tom and Lyle
duked it out, cut one apiece, and Lyle
secured the heat card with a win.
Lyle and Chuck put on another great
show in the final flyoff for seventh place.
Lyle finished seventh overall with a time
of 1:01.96, and Chuck Andraka placed
eighth with 1:02.12. Tom Scott came
home in ninth with a 1:03.75, followed
by Gino Del Ponte in 10th with 1:01.11.
Fast Time for the contest went to the
pilot/caller team of Dub Jett and John
Shannon, with a smoking-fast time of
1:01.03, which I didn’t even have to
look up. Why, you ask? Well, Dub turned
this time in a heat against yours truly,
taking me down a point by the length
of a fuselage, and nailing Fast Time for
the contest—a time I won’t soon forget.
Well done, Dub and John.
Until next time, race hard and have
fun.
SOURCES:
National Miniature Pylon Racing Association
www.nmpra.org
SpeedWorld R/C Flyers
www.speedworldrcf.com
