EACH YEAR at the Toledo expo there is a static competition for a variety of categories, including nonmilitary Scale, military Scale. Designer Scale, and many others. There was a good selection of models this year, and the prizes were great too. Most were radios from Futaba, Hitec, and Airtronics. which is a great incentive to participate. The judges check documentation and look closely at all the models. It takes a small army of judges who volunteer on Saturday night to accomplish this task. Awards are announced Sunday afternoon at approximately 3:00. preceded by the Weak Signals' raffle to benefit a scholarship fund. There were four classes of Scale aviation competition this year. Al Franklin of Gig Harbor WA won Non-Military Sport Scale with his Grumman Widgeon, David Nellis of Sterling MI took second place with a much-modified Sig J-3 Cub, and Don Lawrence was third with a Travelair Model R Mystery Ship. Several were surprised to see a Cub as runner-up in this class, but I understood the final standings after examining the documentation of the three entries. The winner in Military Sport Scale was James Jacobson of Rogers MI with a beautifully detailed Grumman Wildcat. The landing gear on this model was a work of art. Dave Platt took second with his Miles M.20. which he campaigned in competition last year at the Nationals. Finishing out the top three was Bill Steffes with his P-47 Thunderbolt from a Nick Ziroli design. Another class was Best Jet. and Scale models took two of the top three places. The top-placing model wasn't scale; it was a BobCat sport jet entered by Terry Nitsch. Second-place finisher Robert Bush brought a North American F-lOO Super Sabre from a John McLauchlin (Collierville TN) built this Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk to Ye scale. Bob Violett kit. and Jim Wiegel's F-18 finished third. In Designer Scale, modelers have to draw the plans and build their models from those plans and scale views. Dave Platt won with his beautiful Hawker Hunter Mk 6. Len Ashdown of Ontario. Canada, took second place with his version of the Fairey Swordfish. A full-scale airplane you can study at the Pensacola Naval Air Station is the Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk. The model I've included here is from John McLauchlin of Collierville TN. He said that this was a learning experience and it was a lot of fun to build. The '/k-scale model was built from three-views and John's measurements of the aircraft in the museum. "Working as a flight instructor at the Pensacola Naval Air Station gave me plenty of access to the full-scale Curtiss in the museum," said John. "I was allowed to measure the airframe, which really helped in making corrections on the three-views I used while making my plans." The Goshawk was a 1930s carrier-based aircraft, which was the same as the US Army Air Force F11C except for the semicanopy and the raised turtledeck. Three-views of the Fl 1C are easy to find. A book about the US Navy Hawks — Curtiss Navy Hawks in Action—in published by Squadron/Signal Publications. It has 49 pages and 100 photos, and it's available from your local book dealer or one of the aviation catalogs. John added working shocks to the main gear by using Radio Control car shocks. James Jacobson's Grumman Wildcat won the Military Sport Scale division in the static competition at the Toledo show. David Nellis's clipped-wing Cub was modified from a Sig kit. He used Nelson paint to complete the scale color scheme after applying the pinked tapes and other surface details. The model spans 60 inches and weighs 11 '/2 pounds. John uses a YS 91 for power, and he controls the model with a Futaba 8UAP radio. John is a career pilot who flies for FedEx® out of Memphis TN. Plans for the model are not available. Adding details to any model is fun—at least for most Scale modelers—even if it's just for Fun Scale. On the Sig CAP 231 EX I've added the pilot, shoulder straps, buckles, instrument panel, and the microphone for the pilot's headset. The microphone was simple to make; I used a piece of 16-gauge copper speaker wire with the plastic insulation left on and a short length of fuel tubing. After splitting the wire and cutting it to the proper length for my pilot, I added the fuel tubing to one end for the mouthpiece. I coated the wire with thin ZAP to keep it stiff and set it aside to dry. I also added ZAP® to the ends of the tubing. Using acrylic art paint, I painted this piece the appropriate color for my model and pilot. Be careful with the cockpit base on this model; it's made from thin plastic, and the edges will shatter easily—as I learned. Without the recommended added plywood base under the pilot, you are asking for a figure that will be flying around in the canopy after the aircraft is completed. I hope the following helps some pilots out there whether they're flying their first, third, or 25th Scale model. Having attended many contests throughout the years, you get to the point where you think you've seen it all. Nah; it never happens. Modelers who fly at national contests are as likely to make mistakes as anyone. At a contest this year, multiple events occurred that could have been prevented by one simple thing: going through a preflight checklist. I don't mean before the first flight, but before all flights. Al Franklin's Grumman Widgeon won Non-Military Sport Scale. Len Ashdown's Fairey Swordfish was second in Designer Scale. I'm simply amazed by the modelers (myself included at times) who don't use a preflight checklist to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Notice I didn't write "has" a preflight checklist; if you have it and don't use it, it's worthless and your model will be sooner or later. If you're still reading this and thinking to yourself, "It can't happen to me," you've already set yourself up for a crash. So let's ask ourselves the following questions. I'm betting that some of you can think of others to add to the list. I'm going to deal with the radio for the most part this time. You might use some of this before each flight and other information before each flying season. • Have you checked the receiver and transmitter batteries? Are they fully charged? • Do you have all the servo connectors labeled at the end of the servo connectors and correctly attached? • Is the antenna fully extended on the receiver in the model? • Is the antenna fully extended on the transmitter? • Have you range-checked this receiver/transmitter since last year? • Have you gone through each setup program on the transmitter to be sure each control surface is working properly and that it deflects in the correct angle? • How old are the batteries in the receiver? In the transmitter? • Have you checked the servo connectors, servo horns, output shaft, and clevises? • Is the switch harness working properly? • Are all the trims adjusted correctly for takeoff? • Are all the subtrims working properly? • Are all the cross-trims correctly programmed? • If you have a programmable transmitter with multiple models, is the correct model displayed? • Do all metal bolts and nuts have Loctite® on them so they won't back out on the model? • Do the servo output arms have tightened screws in them? • Do you have all servo extensions properly taped and sealed? • Is your receiver wrapped in foam then plastic? • Is your receiver properly attached inside the airframe? • Is your battery properly attached inside the airframe? • Do all controls work without binding or crimping? Another guide I keep in my shop for reference is "The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces." It looks sort of stupid, but any of us can get so close to a project that we forget which way is up. I'm sure at least one of us has managed something like this with a Scale or sport model at one time or another; I know I did it the first year I flew and have had this list up in my shop ever since! Sometimes we don't even think about the safety aspects until it's too late, then all that work (one, two, or three years) is gone in less than 10 seconds. The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces: • For down-elevator, the elevator should deflect down. • For up-elevator, the elevator should deflect up. • For right turns, right aileron should be up and left aileron down. • For left turns, left aileron should be up and right aileron down. • For right rudder, rudder should be deflected to the right. • For left rudder, rudder should be deflected to the left. • You need another list for models with retracts, flaps, and other mechanical options. • If you don't check these control surfaces during airplane setup, please refer to the second word in the title. Scale Masters Qualifier: The Royal Palm Scale Meet will be held in Sarasota. Florida, the weekend after Thanksgiving (November 23-24). For more information, please contact Mike Winter at (941) 966-7786 or at [email protected]. Until next month, fair skies and tailwinds. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/09
Page Numbers: 125, 126, 127
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/09
Page Numbers: 125, 126, 127
EACH YEAR at the Toledo expo there is a static competition for a variety of categories, including nonmilitary Scale, military Scale. Designer Scale, and many others. There was a good selection of models this year, and the prizes were great too. Most were radios from Futaba, Hitec, and Airtronics. which is a great incentive to participate. The judges check documentation and look closely at all the models. It takes a small army of judges who volunteer on Saturday night to accomplish this task. Awards are announced Sunday afternoon at approximately 3:00. preceded by the Weak Signals' raffle to benefit a scholarship fund. There were four classes of Scale aviation competition this year. Al Franklin of Gig Harbor WA won Non-Military Sport Scale with his Grumman Widgeon, David Nellis of Sterling MI took second place with a much-modified Sig J-3 Cub, and Don Lawrence was third with a Travelair Model R Mystery Ship. Several were surprised to see a Cub as runner-up in this class, but I understood the final standings after examining the documentation of the three entries. The winner in Military Sport Scale was James Jacobson of Rogers MI with a beautifully detailed Grumman Wildcat. The landing gear on this model was a work of art. Dave Platt took second with his Miles M.20. which he campaigned in competition last year at the Nationals. Finishing out the top three was Bill Steffes with his P-47 Thunderbolt from a Nick Ziroli design. Another class was Best Jet. and Scale models took two of the top three places. The top-placing model wasn't scale; it was a BobCat sport jet entered by Terry Nitsch. Second-place finisher Robert Bush brought a North American F-lOO Super Sabre from a John McLauchlin (Collierville TN) built this Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk to Ye scale. Bob Violett kit. and Jim Wiegel's F-18 finished third. In Designer Scale, modelers have to draw the plans and build their models from those plans and scale views. Dave Platt won with his beautiful Hawker Hunter Mk 6. Len Ashdown of Ontario. Canada, took second place with his version of the Fairey Swordfish. A full-scale airplane you can study at the Pensacola Naval Air Station is the Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk. The model I've included here is from John McLauchlin of Collierville TN. He said that this was a learning experience and it was a lot of fun to build. The '/k-scale model was built from three-views and John's measurements of the aircraft in the museum. "Working as a flight instructor at the Pensacola Naval Air Station gave me plenty of access to the full-scale Curtiss in the museum," said John. "I was allowed to measure the airframe, which really helped in making corrections on the three-views I used while making my plans." The Goshawk was a 1930s carrier-based aircraft, which was the same as the US Army Air Force F11C except for the semicanopy and the raised turtledeck. Three-views of the Fl 1C are easy to find. A book about the US Navy Hawks — Curtiss Navy Hawks in Action—in published by Squadron/Signal Publications. It has 49 pages and 100 photos, and it's available from your local book dealer or one of the aviation catalogs. John added working shocks to the main gear by using Radio Control car shocks. James Jacobson's Grumman Wildcat won the Military Sport Scale division in the static competition at the Toledo show. David Nellis's clipped-wing Cub was modified from a Sig kit. He used Nelson paint to complete the scale color scheme after applying the pinked tapes and other surface details. The model spans 60 inches and weighs 11 '/2 pounds. John uses a YS 91 for power, and he controls the model with a Futaba 8UAP radio. John is a career pilot who flies for FedEx® out of Memphis TN. Plans for the model are not available. Adding details to any model is fun—at least for most Scale modelers—even if it's just for Fun Scale. On the Sig CAP 231 EX I've added the pilot, shoulder straps, buckles, instrument panel, and the microphone for the pilot's headset. The microphone was simple to make; I used a piece of 16-gauge copper speaker wire with the plastic insulation left on and a short length of fuel tubing. After splitting the wire and cutting it to the proper length for my pilot, I added the fuel tubing to one end for the mouthpiece. I coated the wire with thin ZAP to keep it stiff and set it aside to dry. I also added ZAP® to the ends of the tubing. Using acrylic art paint, I painted this piece the appropriate color for my model and pilot. Be careful with the cockpit base on this model; it's made from thin plastic, and the edges will shatter easily—as I learned. Without the recommended added plywood base under the pilot, you are asking for a figure that will be flying around in the canopy after the aircraft is completed. I hope the following helps some pilots out there whether they're flying their first, third, or 25th Scale model. Having attended many contests throughout the years, you get to the point where you think you've seen it all. Nah; it never happens. Modelers who fly at national contests are as likely to make mistakes as anyone. At a contest this year, multiple events occurred that could have been prevented by one simple thing: going through a preflight checklist. I don't mean before the first flight, but before all flights. Al Franklin's Grumman Widgeon won Non-Military Sport Scale. Len Ashdown's Fairey Swordfish was second in Designer Scale. I'm simply amazed by the modelers (myself included at times) who don't use a preflight checklist to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Notice I didn't write "has" a preflight checklist; if you have it and don't use it, it's worthless and your model will be sooner or later. If you're still reading this and thinking to yourself, "It can't happen to me," you've already set yourself up for a crash. So let's ask ourselves the following questions. I'm betting that some of you can think of others to add to the list. I'm going to deal with the radio for the most part this time. You might use some of this before each flight and other information before each flying season. • Have you checked the receiver and transmitter batteries? Are they fully charged? • Do you have all the servo connectors labeled at the end of the servo connectors and correctly attached? • Is the antenna fully extended on the receiver in the model? • Is the antenna fully extended on the transmitter? • Have you range-checked this receiver/transmitter since last year? • Have you gone through each setup program on the transmitter to be sure each control surface is working properly and that it deflects in the correct angle? • How old are the batteries in the receiver? In the transmitter? • Have you checked the servo connectors, servo horns, output shaft, and clevises? • Is the switch harness working properly? • Are all the trims adjusted correctly for takeoff? • Are all the subtrims working properly? • Are all the cross-trims correctly programmed? • If you have a programmable transmitter with multiple models, is the correct model displayed? • Do all metal bolts and nuts have Loctite® on them so they won't back out on the model? • Do the servo output arms have tightened screws in them? • Do you have all servo extensions properly taped and sealed? • Is your receiver wrapped in foam then plastic? • Is your receiver properly attached inside the airframe? • Is your battery properly attached inside the airframe? • Do all controls work without binding or crimping? Another guide I keep in my shop for reference is "The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces." It looks sort of stupid, but any of us can get so close to a project that we forget which way is up. I'm sure at least one of us has managed something like this with a Scale or sport model at one time or another; I know I did it the first year I flew and have had this list up in my shop ever since! Sometimes we don't even think about the safety aspects until it's too late, then all that work (one, two, or three years) is gone in less than 10 seconds. The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces: • For down-elevator, the elevator should deflect down. • For up-elevator, the elevator should deflect up. • For right turns, right aileron should be up and left aileron down. • For left turns, left aileron should be up and right aileron down. • For right rudder, rudder should be deflected to the right. • For left rudder, rudder should be deflected to the left. • You need another list for models with retracts, flaps, and other mechanical options. • If you don't check these control surfaces during airplane setup, please refer to the second word in the title. Scale Masters Qualifier: The Royal Palm Scale Meet will be held in Sarasota. Florida, the weekend after Thanksgiving (November 23-24). For more information, please contact Mike Winter at (941) 966-7786 or at [email protected]. Until next month, fair skies and tailwinds. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/09
Page Numbers: 125, 126, 127
EACH YEAR at the Toledo expo there is a static competition for a variety of categories, including nonmilitary Scale, military Scale. Designer Scale, and many others. There was a good selection of models this year, and the prizes were great too. Most were radios from Futaba, Hitec, and Airtronics. which is a great incentive to participate. The judges check documentation and look closely at all the models. It takes a small army of judges who volunteer on Saturday night to accomplish this task. Awards are announced Sunday afternoon at approximately 3:00. preceded by the Weak Signals' raffle to benefit a scholarship fund. There were four classes of Scale aviation competition this year. Al Franklin of Gig Harbor WA won Non-Military Sport Scale with his Grumman Widgeon, David Nellis of Sterling MI took second place with a much-modified Sig J-3 Cub, and Don Lawrence was third with a Travelair Model R Mystery Ship. Several were surprised to see a Cub as runner-up in this class, but I understood the final standings after examining the documentation of the three entries. The winner in Military Sport Scale was James Jacobson of Rogers MI with a beautifully detailed Grumman Wildcat. The landing gear on this model was a work of art. Dave Platt took second with his Miles M.20. which he campaigned in competition last year at the Nationals. Finishing out the top three was Bill Steffes with his P-47 Thunderbolt from a Nick Ziroli design. Another class was Best Jet. and Scale models took two of the top three places. The top-placing model wasn't scale; it was a BobCat sport jet entered by Terry Nitsch. Second-place finisher Robert Bush brought a North American F-lOO Super Sabre from a John McLauchlin (Collierville TN) built this Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk to Ye scale. Bob Violett kit. and Jim Wiegel's F-18 finished third. In Designer Scale, modelers have to draw the plans and build their models from those plans and scale views. Dave Platt won with his beautiful Hawker Hunter Mk 6. Len Ashdown of Ontario. Canada, took second place with his version of the Fairey Swordfish. A full-scale airplane you can study at the Pensacola Naval Air Station is the Curtiss BFC2 Goshawk. The model I've included here is from John McLauchlin of Collierville TN. He said that this was a learning experience and it was a lot of fun to build. The '/k-scale model was built from three-views and John's measurements of the aircraft in the museum. "Working as a flight instructor at the Pensacola Naval Air Station gave me plenty of access to the full-scale Curtiss in the museum," said John. "I was allowed to measure the airframe, which really helped in making corrections on the three-views I used while making my plans." The Goshawk was a 1930s carrier-based aircraft, which was the same as the US Army Air Force F11C except for the semicanopy and the raised turtledeck. Three-views of the Fl 1C are easy to find. A book about the US Navy Hawks — Curtiss Navy Hawks in Action—in published by Squadron/Signal Publications. It has 49 pages and 100 photos, and it's available from your local book dealer or one of the aviation catalogs. John added working shocks to the main gear by using Radio Control car shocks. James Jacobson's Grumman Wildcat won the Military Sport Scale division in the static competition at the Toledo show. David Nellis's clipped-wing Cub was modified from a Sig kit. He used Nelson paint to complete the scale color scheme after applying the pinked tapes and other surface details. The model spans 60 inches and weighs 11 '/2 pounds. John uses a YS 91 for power, and he controls the model with a Futaba 8UAP radio. John is a career pilot who flies for FedEx® out of Memphis TN. Plans for the model are not available. Adding details to any model is fun—at least for most Scale modelers—even if it's just for Fun Scale. On the Sig CAP 231 EX I've added the pilot, shoulder straps, buckles, instrument panel, and the microphone for the pilot's headset. The microphone was simple to make; I used a piece of 16-gauge copper speaker wire with the plastic insulation left on and a short length of fuel tubing. After splitting the wire and cutting it to the proper length for my pilot, I added the fuel tubing to one end for the mouthpiece. I coated the wire with thin ZAP to keep it stiff and set it aside to dry. I also added ZAP® to the ends of the tubing. Using acrylic art paint, I painted this piece the appropriate color for my model and pilot. Be careful with the cockpit base on this model; it's made from thin plastic, and the edges will shatter easily—as I learned. Without the recommended added plywood base under the pilot, you are asking for a figure that will be flying around in the canopy after the aircraft is completed. I hope the following helps some pilots out there whether they're flying their first, third, or 25th Scale model. Having attended many contests throughout the years, you get to the point where you think you've seen it all. Nah; it never happens. Modelers who fly at national contests are as likely to make mistakes as anyone. At a contest this year, multiple events occurred that could have been prevented by one simple thing: going through a preflight checklist. I don't mean before the first flight, but before all flights. Al Franklin's Grumman Widgeon won Non-Military Sport Scale. Len Ashdown's Fairey Swordfish was second in Designer Scale. I'm simply amazed by the modelers (myself included at times) who don't use a preflight checklist to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Notice I didn't write "has" a preflight checklist; if you have it and don't use it, it's worthless and your model will be sooner or later. If you're still reading this and thinking to yourself, "It can't happen to me," you've already set yourself up for a crash. So let's ask ourselves the following questions. I'm betting that some of you can think of others to add to the list. I'm going to deal with the radio for the most part this time. You might use some of this before each flight and other information before each flying season. • Have you checked the receiver and transmitter batteries? Are they fully charged? • Do you have all the servo connectors labeled at the end of the servo connectors and correctly attached? • Is the antenna fully extended on the receiver in the model? • Is the antenna fully extended on the transmitter? • Have you range-checked this receiver/transmitter since last year? • Have you gone through each setup program on the transmitter to be sure each control surface is working properly and that it deflects in the correct angle? • How old are the batteries in the receiver? In the transmitter? • Have you checked the servo connectors, servo horns, output shaft, and clevises? • Is the switch harness working properly? • Are all the trims adjusted correctly for takeoff? • Are all the subtrims working properly? • Are all the cross-trims correctly programmed? • If you have a programmable transmitter with multiple models, is the correct model displayed? • Do all metal bolts and nuts have Loctite® on them so they won't back out on the model? • Do the servo output arms have tightened screws in them? • Do you have all servo extensions properly taped and sealed? • Is your receiver wrapped in foam then plastic? • Is your receiver properly attached inside the airframe? • Is your battery properly attached inside the airframe? • Do all controls work without binding or crimping? Another guide I keep in my shop for reference is "The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces." It looks sort of stupid, but any of us can get so close to a project that we forget which way is up. I'm sure at least one of us has managed something like this with a Scale or sport model at one time or another; I know I did it the first year I flew and have had this list up in my shop ever since! Sometimes we don't even think about the safety aspects until it's too late, then all that work (one, two, or three years) is gone in less than 10 seconds. The Dummy's Guide to Control Surfaces: • For down-elevator, the elevator should deflect down. • For up-elevator, the elevator should deflect up. • For right turns, right aileron should be up and left aileron down. • For left turns, left aileron should be up and right aileron down. • For right rudder, rudder should be deflected to the right. • For left rudder, rudder should be deflected to the left. • You need another list for models with retracts, flaps, and other mechanical options. • If you don't check these control surfaces during airplane setup, please refer to the second word in the title. Scale Masters Qualifier: The Royal Palm Scale Meet will be held in Sarasota. Florida, the weekend after Thanksgiving (November 23-24). For more information, please contact Mike Winter at (941) 966-7786 or at [email protected]. Until next month, fair skies and tailwinds. MA
