Whether or not to weather
by Stan Alexander [email protected]
There are many options for weathering scale models. Some modelers add hangar rash to an airplane for a contest, even though it doesn't appear in their documentation. That makes the model incorrect in the eyes of a static judge.
Others take a different approach when they find a model they want to build and choose a "hangar queen" or a museum aircraft to model. It's rare to find a museum airplane with a weathered look; most look factory-fresh, which is correct for static judging.
I saw several models that featured battle damage and weathering at Warbirds Over the Rockies. I'm not sure who the builder was, but the B-17G I saw was heavily weathered and showed flak damage on different parts of the aircraft.
Common weathering techniques include:
- Using flat (matte) paint.
- Rubbing dirt, dust, or chalk on the model to simulate grime.
- Deliberately making panels appear damaged or worn.
- Creating flak damage and massive paint chipping.
- Using fine-grade steel wool to rub panels where normal paint would wear off.
- Starting with a silver (metallic) base, painting over it, then rubbing off paint to reveal colored panels or the metallic undercoat.
You have to find the techniques that work best for you.
Many civilian aircraft don't look weathered. They are cared for—like your mom's 1957 Ford Thunderbird. The Pietenpol I'm finishing is an example of an aircraft that is kept in a hangar and lovingly cared for.
Pietenpol Air Camper Update
The Pietenpol Air Camper has been coming along and I'm nearly ready to cover it. The O.S. 72 four-stroke has been installed on the fuselage with a Du-Bro beam motor mount. Because I changed the mount for the engine, I added triangular stock behind the firewall to ensure there is enough structure to hold things in place. A coat of thinned epoxy will keep fuel out of the wood.
There are barn-door-type ailerons on the wing and I've upgraded the servos to Hitec units with metal gears. A standard servo will function as the throttle servo.
I adjusted the uprights for the center wing section. They didn't match my homebuilt aircraft and were in the wrong place for a scale appearance. They should be directly over the main-gear legs at the points where those legs mount to the fuselage, not off to the front or back. This placement is part of the strength and simplicity of the Pietenpol's design. Crossbraces between the uprights are not shown on the plans, but the structure needs them. The forces involved, and even the hardwood used, tend to warp, which can make the wings fit incorrectly on the fuselage.
Going to Major Events
While traveling across the country to attend events, you'll likely see many of the new products introduced for the upcoming flying season. These items can include products for scale competition, radio gear, or accessories that make scale modeling more fun. Adding scale details to a model—especially when you take that warbird or new model to the flying field—can make flying more enjoyable for you and for spectators.
Balsa USA
Balsa USA has long been active in promoting kit building and supplying balsa and hardwood for scratch builders. The company recently began offering small mechanisms and accessories for Balsa USA models and others. There are few items I've seen (other than smoke on a flying model) that get more attention than a bomb or tank drop. Balsa USA has developed a unit that will work on World War I and World War II vintage aircraft.
With a little work—connect the servo to the receiver—and you are ready to drop dummy bombs on your local flying field.
If you are interested in competition, a bomb drop is a good way to score a 10 on a maneuver. Drop it in front of the judges, not on them!
Fair skies and tailwinds.
SOURCES
- Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287 www.balsausa.com
- Lowe’s Home Improvement
- National Association of Scale Aeromodelers
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
