The Rolling Workstation - 2011/01

34 MODEL AVIATION
The Rolling Workstation
Project
A great project starts with a great foundation
by Tim Soukup
MANY OF US build and repair our models
without taking our work areas into
consideration. After all, it’s our domain,
right? Tools and tables are our
environment. We should make this a higher
priority in our pursuit of the hobby.
How many times have you wished that
you had a better work area or more room to
work? I can’t tell you how many times
those thoughts have occurred to me in the
past 30-plus years. I have been involved in
this hobby/sport since I was 8. Growing up,
I built on whatever was available—a Ping-
Pong table in my parents’ garage, a card
table, or whatever I had access to.
These days I feel fortunate to have a
two-car garage that doubles as my shop.
Sure, I’d like to have a dedicated standalone
shop, but we work within our means.
If you live in an apartment or a condo, your
workstation abilities are probably more
constrained.
Bob Hunt has addressed workstation
issues in recent MA CL Aerobatics
columns. I took that as a sign that I needed
something similar.
For a long time I used two 24- x 96-inch
workbenches with drawers and storage
underneath. However, they were flush
against the wall and limited accessibility. In
addition, while working I frequently lose
small items that are mysteriously attracted
to the crevice between the workbench and
the wall.
My preferred workspace is an “island.”
Although I don’t claim that the project I’m
presenting is the do all/end all/be all of
workstations, it serves my purposes much
better than what I had been using. Even
those who assemble ARFs can appreciate a
straight working surface.
I “make do” with standard tools, and I
think you can too. If you have questions at
some point, ask someone. Don’t guess;
that might cost you time and money.
I am fortunate in that a couple of my
friends make cabinets and are master
woodworkers. Nothing smells better than
freshly cut pine, cedar, or oak.
As I have mentioned, aeromodelers’
building needs differ depending on task,
location, and other factors. The intent of
this article is to help develop your own
space through the construction story of my
rolling workstation.
This structure consists of a generous
worktop that measures 4 x 6 feet, several
compartments for storage, and a good
number of drawers. It also features a sidemounted
electrical power strip with six
outlets and sits on four sturdy casters so I
can move it around or out of the way as the
situation dictates. Mobility is what makes
this workbench multifunctional.
Getting Started: We aeromodelers have
unique building needs and requirements,
and the solutions can be as varied as we
are. For this project you can use your own
dimensions or the ones that I provide. I
have changed facets of this workstation
even while building using my new setup.
Before I began, I browsed the Internet
for free plans for a workspace similar to
this. The searches I conducted turned up
probably 2 million results.
I formulated my design by gleaning
information and ideas from approximately
two dozen articles. I also incorporated a
number of considerations that Bob Hunt
addressed in the March and May 2010
MAs.
From that point I went to a clean sheet
of graph paper. Don’t start cutting up
good lumber and driving screws without a
plan.
I sketched several simple dimensions
and the overall layout. Then I went into
my shop and measured all the tools that I
wanted to incorporate into the design,
wrote all of the dimensions on a small
pad, and then began designing.
I created the station to offer a generous
and sturdy work surface and plenty of
storage below. I made sure that I fabricated
cubicles that were adequate sizes to store all
of my most often-used tools.
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:37 PM Page 34
January 2011 35
Right top: A rolling workstation offers its user not only four
vantage points for whatever is being built, but also four storage
options.
Right center: The tabletop is 44 inches from the floor, which is
good for the average-height person to work on a model up to
1.20 size. Giant-scale builders might want a shorter bench.
Right: Drawers on rollers use hardware scavenged from an old
computer desk. Everything is attached with screws, including
galvanized corner brackets.
Opposite page: This is where dreams begin. A wide-open
building surface cries for a project.
Nothing is worse than having a space that is 1/2 inch too narrow
or 1/4 inch too short in which to store an item. If you choose to
make individualized spaces for your tools, don’t guess the
dimensions; be sure of their required spaces.
Keep in mind the thickness of the materials you are using. If
you planned to employ 1/2 plywood but then purchased 5/8 or 3/4,
you are going to run into problems.
I went to the local home-improvement store with my notepad. I
made notes about what materials were available and their
associated costs.
You could purchase precut workbench kits and then modify
them to accept wheels, but those setups are made to sit flat on the
floor. If they are constructed from particleboard, they probably
warp and sag as time passes unless you mount them atop a level,
sturdy frame.
The precut structures might be more suitable for you, but you
won’t have the option of custom-sizing cabinets or storage
compartments. My workstation has no wasted space.
After my home-improvement-center field trip, I knew that the
cost would be close to $400 for wood, hardware, and the Min-Wax
polyurethane finish that I would need.
Materials: As I was browsing at the store, I noticed that there are
considerable variations in materials and their costs. I encourage
you to spend the extra money on good-quality products.
I remember the day I learned about “contest balsa.” It made the
models I built fly considerably better than regular balsa did, and
they were definitely lighter in weight. They also cost slightly more.
That’s also when I realized that most “bargain” wood really wasn’t.
You have a choice to make; will this workstation be stationary
or mobile? If it is going to sit in one spot, almost any sort of
plywood or premade cabinets will do for a base. It’s the top that
will need to be the most accurate. I chose to make my structure
mobile, so it was going to have to be much more robust.
I purchased an extremely high grade of materials; I was
building this workstation to last a long time.
Don’t waste your time building the frame from particleboard or
OSB (oriented strand board); they look like chipboard or thin wood
wafers pressed and glued together. These materials are too weak,
and the result will not look like a carefully crafted workpiece. It
might appear to be a crate when you’re shooting for a cabinet.
As you select your lumber, make sure it’s straight. Warped 2 x
4s will yield a similarly twisted product.
Check for knotholes, and look at all four sides of each piece of
wood. A few little (dime size) knotholes aren’t bad, but the fewer
the better.
Sight down each edge of the wood and look for obvious warps.
I saw some pieces that would have made great propellers! I’ll bet
that I culled through 120-140 pieces to select the 12 I bought.
I purchased 8-foot (96 inch) 2 x 4s. For this project, the longest
needed to be 68 inches. I found a few pieces that were straight and
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:39 PM Page 35
36 MODEL AVIATION
Photos by the author
Tim measured his popular tools and
supplies, and then made custom storage
spaces to fit them. He finished all wood parts
with several coats of Min-Wax before
assembly.
The tabletop is two layers of heavy plywood
the size of the station frame. On top of that
the author screwed on a painted layer of
MDF that is 2 inches wider all around.
Four-inch casters support the full weight of
the workbench, with duty to spare. The
station can easily be relocated in the garage,
to make space for a car in the winter.
The basic frame of Tim’s bench is hand-picked 4 x 4 posts and 2 x
4 spreaders. Sealing the material is important to minimize
seasonal expansion.
Corner posts are notched as shown. Angle aluminum cut to size
supports the sliding shelf. Notice the wood grain; the author made
some excellent material choices.
had great grain, but one end was bad. That
was fine, because those lengths were
trimmed during construction and the flaws
presented no problems.
While you are at the home store, ask to
see the high-quality plywood. I chose
some presanded 1/2 and 3/4 birch. It is a
step or two better than construction-grade
plywood—but not furniture grade—and
both sides have a beautifully sanded
finish. Check both sides for blemishes,
and examine edges and corners for
damage.
Take notes while you are shopping.
Even write down item names, prices, and
SKU (stock-keeping unit) numbers so you
don’t get confused later.
You’ll need to have the plywood cut to
size. Many home-improvement stores
have fixtures that will slice plywood
almost straight.
Mark your material, and then have an
attendant make the long cuts on a saw
fixture. Since I planned for my bench to
be 4 x 6 feet, a standard sheet of plywood
needed to be trimmed. Keep the scraps.
I bought four 6-inch-diameter
swiveling casters but returned them after a
test installation and obtained the 4-inch
size. The 6-inch wheels would have been
too tall. By fitting 4-inch wheels, the
tabletop was 44 inches from the floor.
At least two of the four casters must be
able pivot so you can maneuver your
workstation into different locations. If
they don’t spin, you’ve built a 500-pound
speed dolly.
The wheels I used are rated at 550
pounds of capacity each. I didn’t want to
overload a less capable wheel, nor did I
relish the thought of a wheel failing
someday when I’m moving my
workstation around the shop.
Assembly: Rather than provide a step-bystep
progression through this project, I’ll
hit only the fine points. You already know
that you need to make accurate cuts.
I used two
rechargeable drills
for the assembly
process; one had a
bit installed and the other had a Phillipshead
driver. That way I could drill with one
and drive in screws using the other.
Remember that a 2 x 4 piece of wood is
actually 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches. A 4 x 4 is
actually 3.5 inches square—not 4. Allow
for these dimensions if you design your
own structure or work from a sketch.
Use as many squaring devices as you
can. Triangles and squares aren’t solely for
aligning wings, rudders, and stabilizers.
This project isn’t simply a table with
wheels. It needs to accommodate a lot of
equipment stored in various places, which
adds substantial weight to the final product.
I don’t want to find two years from now
that the entire table is swaybacked like an
old mare; there’s nothing I can do about it
at that point. I want it to stay flat.
If you don’t plan on storing heavy
power tools in your workbench, it probably
doesn’t have to be as substantial as mine is.
A few framed cubicles made from 1/2
plywood and plastic tubs would be fine.
Doors are a nice touch too.
I began by constructing the basic box
frame. Then I stained, sanded, and sealed it
with two or three coats of polyurethane. I
chose this sequence because it was easier to
manipulate the frame and turn it over to
apply the finish while the structure was still
mostly unbuilt.
I finished approximately 95% of the
structure and plywood panels (while they
were still large sheets) with polyurethane
before final assembly. If you wait until
you’re finished assembling the workstation
to apply the finish, you’ll find that your
structure has gained considerable mass.
This method provided me with a surface
that was 99% free of runs and drips. I
didn’t relish the thought of having to get on
my hands and knees to stain inside all of
the little crevices and sand them between
coats. This was by far the easiest but most
time-consuming (taking into account drying
time between coats) portion of the project.
I applied finish to one side of the
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:42 PM Page 36
January 2011 37
Work Surface: This is a sheet of 5/8 or 3/4
MDF trimmed to 4 x 6. You can buy it last,
when the construction is almost complete.
The last operation is to fasten the top
surface.
MDF requires no paint or finishing, but
I painted mine and then applied a coat of
polyurethane. When it gets old, scarred,
and stained, simply unscrew this surface,
flip it over, and reattach it. Then you have
a fresh top.
I learned that MDF is sold in 49 x 97-
inch sheets, so it’s 1 inch larger than
necessary all around. Have it trimmed for
you at the time of purchase.
You also need two sheets of 3/4 birch
(five ply) plywood, trimmed to 44 x 68
The Breakdown
Tools that are used most often are kept in
a cubby that is easy to access. Design your
workbench to suit your needs. Fill empty
spaces with drawers instead of shelves.
The frame supports the work surface in
several places, to prevent sagging. You can
build your workstation from a plan or start
with a frame and fill it in.
inches. These pieces are 2 inches undersized
all around (not 48 x 72 inches).
That is so that the MDF top will leave you
with a 2-inch lip on every side. If your finished
bench has no overhang, you can’t clamp
anything to it.
Compartment Walls and Drawer Frames:
Two or three sheets of 1/2 birch plywood
trimmed to 36 x 96 inches are required. I used
the better part of three sheets.
Also get 12 straight, high-quality 2 x 4s,
untrimmed. You won’t need them all, but
you will probably make a mistake or two
cutting them at home during construction. I
did. It’s best to have a few spares to save you
a trip to the store.
Four or five plywood sheets (the good stuff) $140-$180
One sheet of 5/8 MDF $25
12 8-foot 2 x 4s $30
Two 4 x 4s (cut into 36-inch sections) $24
Four caster wheels $44
One set of slides per drawer at $5 per set (optional) $50
One 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4 hardboard (optional) $12
Five boxes of coarse-thread drywall screws $25 (Two boxes of 3-inch, two boxes of 2-inch, 1 box of 15/8)
Eight steel corner brackets at $5.50 each $36
One gallon Min-Wax polyurethane (optional) $29
One gallon mineral spirits (optional) $12
Total $494 ($364 without drawers)
Estimated Materials Cost:
Two straight 4 x 4s, 8 feet long, will be
cut to exactly 36 inches and used as corner
supports. Check these for straightness. I cut
mine a tiny bit long and then made a series
of trimming cuts, to ensure that the final
length was correct.
Casters (Optional): These 4-inch casters
stand 5.25 inches tall. I obtained mine
locally, at Northern Tool and Equipment for
$11 each (part number 189341). The picture
in the online catalog is incorrect.
The casters I purchased came with the
bare minimum amount of grease in the
bearings. I used a grease gun to inject a
bit more. MA
—Tim Soukup
plywood sheeting all the way to its
completion. When I was satisfied with the
result, I finished the other side. This way I
didn’t have to keep track of how many
coats I had given each side.
From start to completion, this finishing
process took slightly more than three
weeks. If you omit a painted finish, you can
probably build your workstation in a threeday
weekend. If you omit the plans, you
can build it in maybe four hours.
If you put forth enough time and don’t
rush, you’ll have a fine workstation. I’m
guessing that the total amount of time that I
invested was close to 100 hours.
Do you remember those 1/2 plywood
sheets you had the store cut to 36 x 96
inches? They are going to make all of the
inner supports and cabinetry. Thirty-six
inches is exactly the spacing between the
plywood top and bottom.
As I mentioned, the complete
workstation, sitting on its wheels, will be
44 inches from the floor
There’s enough room to build several models on the
author’s rolling workstation. Its bright-blue finish is
excellent for photos and easy on the user’s eyes.
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:44 PM Page 37
38 MODEL AVIATION
to the surface of the medium-density
fiberboard (MDF) top. I’m tall, and I
appreciate being able to work on my models
without having to stoop over.
I framed the box structure on the garage
floor. When I was satisfied that all was
square, I fastened the bottom plywood using
3-inch screws and then flipped the entire
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structure right-side up to complete the
cabinets.
Install all inner walls and interior post
supports before you add the top piece of
plywood (predrilled) and MDF top. It’s easier
to install the drawers and their associated
hardware and the slide-out tables with the top
off. It would only be in the way at this point.
A smaller (and simpler) workstation certainly
won’t require this amount of preparation.
Whether or not you opt for drawers is up
to you. I suggest that you have all slide
hardware in hand, and follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations when you
build the drawers. That will affect the
dimensions of each drawer and depends on
whether you choose side- or bottom-mount
slides. Each type has its own mounting
method.
My workstation has a total of 11 drawers.
I recently got rid of an old computer desk, but
before it went out to the curb I scavenged all
of the slide hardware from it. I got three free
slides from that.
So I went a bit overbudget. The price will
change depending on who’s listening to you
tell the story and the dimensions of your
finished project. But I’ve got one sturdy
workstation, though, and I can even roll it
outside if I want.
Watch those saw blades and count your
fingers. Good luck! MA
Tim Soukup
[email protected]
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:45 PM Page 38

34 MODEL AVIATION
The Rolling Workstation
Project
A great project starts with a great foundation
by Tim Soukup
MANY OF US build and repair our models
without taking our work areas into
consideration. After all, it’s our domain,
right? Tools and tables are our
environment. We should make this a higher
priority in our pursuit of the hobby.
How many times have you wished that
you had a better work area or more room to
work? I can’t tell you how many times
those thoughts have occurred to me in the
past 30-plus years. I have been involved in
this hobby/sport since I was 8. Growing up,
I built on whatever was available—a Ping-
Pong table in my parents’ garage, a card
table, or whatever I had access to.
These days I feel fortunate to have a
two-car garage that doubles as my shop.
Sure, I’d like to have a dedicated standalone
shop, but we work within our means.
If you live in an apartment or a condo, your
workstation abilities are probably more
constrained.
Bob Hunt has addressed workstation
issues in recent MA CL Aerobatics
columns. I took that as a sign that I needed
something similar.
For a long time I used two 24- x 96-inch
workbenches with drawers and storage
underneath. However, they were flush
against the wall and limited accessibility. In
addition, while working I frequently lose
small items that are mysteriously attracted
to the crevice between the workbench and
the wall.
My preferred workspace is an “island.”
Although I don’t claim that the project I’m
presenting is the do all/end all/be all of
workstations, it serves my purposes much
better than what I had been using. Even
those who assemble ARFs can appreciate a
straight working surface.
I “make do” with standard tools, and I
think you can too. If you have questions at
some point, ask someone. Don’t guess;
that might cost you time and money.
I am fortunate in that a couple of my
friends make cabinets and are master
woodworkers. Nothing smells better than
freshly cut pine, cedar, or oak.
As I have mentioned, aeromodelers’
building needs differ depending on task,
location, and other factors. The intent of
this article is to help develop your own
space through the construction story of my
rolling workstation.
This structure consists of a generous
worktop that measures 4 x 6 feet, several
compartments for storage, and a good
number of drawers. It also features a sidemounted
electrical power strip with six
outlets and sits on four sturdy casters so I
can move it around or out of the way as the
situation dictates. Mobility is what makes
this workbench multifunctional.
Getting Started: We aeromodelers have
unique building needs and requirements,
and the solutions can be as varied as we
are. For this project you can use your own
dimensions or the ones that I provide. I
have changed facets of this workstation
even while building using my new setup.
Before I began, I browsed the Internet
for free plans for a workspace similar to
this. The searches I conducted turned up
probably 2 million results.
I formulated my design by gleaning
information and ideas from approximately
two dozen articles. I also incorporated a
number of considerations that Bob Hunt
addressed in the March and May 2010
MAs.
From that point I went to a clean sheet
of graph paper. Don’t start cutting up
good lumber and driving screws without a
plan.
I sketched several simple dimensions
and the overall layout. Then I went into
my shop and measured all the tools that I
wanted to incorporate into the design,
wrote all of the dimensions on a small
pad, and then began designing.
I created the station to offer a generous
and sturdy work surface and plenty of
storage below. I made sure that I fabricated
cubicles that were adequate sizes to store all
of my most often-used tools.
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:37 PM Page 34
January 2011 35
Right top: A rolling workstation offers its user not only four
vantage points for whatever is being built, but also four storage
options.
Right center: The tabletop is 44 inches from the floor, which is
good for the average-height person to work on a model up to
1.20 size. Giant-scale builders might want a shorter bench.
Right: Drawers on rollers use hardware scavenged from an old
computer desk. Everything is attached with screws, including
galvanized corner brackets.
Opposite page: This is where dreams begin. A wide-open
building surface cries for a project.
Nothing is worse than having a space that is 1/2 inch too narrow
or 1/4 inch too short in which to store an item. If you choose to
make individualized spaces for your tools, don’t guess the
dimensions; be sure of their required spaces.
Keep in mind the thickness of the materials you are using. If
you planned to employ 1/2 plywood but then purchased 5/8 or 3/4,
you are going to run into problems.
I went to the local home-improvement store with my notepad. I
made notes about what materials were available and their
associated costs.
You could purchase precut workbench kits and then modify
them to accept wheels, but those setups are made to sit flat on the
floor. If they are constructed from particleboard, they probably
warp and sag as time passes unless you mount them atop a level,
sturdy frame.
The precut structures might be more suitable for you, but you
won’t have the option of custom-sizing cabinets or storage
compartments. My workstation has no wasted space.
After my home-improvement-center field trip, I knew that the
cost would be close to $400 for wood, hardware, and the Min-Wax
polyurethane finish that I would need.
Materials: As I was browsing at the store, I noticed that there are
considerable variations in materials and their costs. I encourage
you to spend the extra money on good-quality products.
I remember the day I learned about “contest balsa.” It made the
models I built fly considerably better than regular balsa did, and
they were definitely lighter in weight. They also cost slightly more.
That’s also when I realized that most “bargain” wood really wasn’t.
You have a choice to make; will this workstation be stationary
or mobile? If it is going to sit in one spot, almost any sort of
plywood or premade cabinets will do for a base. It’s the top that
will need to be the most accurate. I chose to make my structure
mobile, so it was going to have to be much more robust.
I purchased an extremely high grade of materials; I was
building this workstation to last a long time.
Don’t waste your time building the frame from particleboard or
OSB (oriented strand board); they look like chipboard or thin wood
wafers pressed and glued together. These materials are too weak,
and the result will not look like a carefully crafted workpiece. It
might appear to be a crate when you’re shooting for a cabinet.
As you select your lumber, make sure it’s straight. Warped 2 x
4s will yield a similarly twisted product.
Check for knotholes, and look at all four sides of each piece of
wood. A few little (dime size) knotholes aren’t bad, but the fewer
the better.
Sight down each edge of the wood and look for obvious warps.
I saw some pieces that would have made great propellers! I’ll bet
that I culled through 120-140 pieces to select the 12 I bought.
I purchased 8-foot (96 inch) 2 x 4s. For this project, the longest
needed to be 68 inches. I found a few pieces that were straight and
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:39 PM Page 35
36 MODEL AVIATION
Photos by the author
Tim measured his popular tools and
supplies, and then made custom storage
spaces to fit them. He finished all wood parts
with several coats of Min-Wax before
assembly.
The tabletop is two layers of heavy plywood
the size of the station frame. On top of that
the author screwed on a painted layer of
MDF that is 2 inches wider all around.
Four-inch casters support the full weight of
the workbench, with duty to spare. The
station can easily be relocated in the garage,
to make space for a car in the winter.
The basic frame of Tim’s bench is hand-picked 4 x 4 posts and 2 x
4 spreaders. Sealing the material is important to minimize
seasonal expansion.
Corner posts are notched as shown. Angle aluminum cut to size
supports the sliding shelf. Notice the wood grain; the author made
some excellent material choices.
had great grain, but one end was bad. That
was fine, because those lengths were
trimmed during construction and the flaws
presented no problems.
While you are at the home store, ask to
see the high-quality plywood. I chose
some presanded 1/2 and 3/4 birch. It is a
step or two better than construction-grade
plywood—but not furniture grade—and
both sides have a beautifully sanded
finish. Check both sides for blemishes,
and examine edges and corners for
damage.
Take notes while you are shopping.
Even write down item names, prices, and
SKU (stock-keeping unit) numbers so you
don’t get confused later.
You’ll need to have the plywood cut to
size. Many home-improvement stores
have fixtures that will slice plywood
almost straight.
Mark your material, and then have an
attendant make the long cuts on a saw
fixture. Since I planned for my bench to
be 4 x 6 feet, a standard sheet of plywood
needed to be trimmed. Keep the scraps.
I bought four 6-inch-diameter
swiveling casters but returned them after a
test installation and obtained the 4-inch
size. The 6-inch wheels would have been
too tall. By fitting 4-inch wheels, the
tabletop was 44 inches from the floor.
At least two of the four casters must be
able pivot so you can maneuver your
workstation into different locations. If
they don’t spin, you’ve built a 500-pound
speed dolly.
The wheels I used are rated at 550
pounds of capacity each. I didn’t want to
overload a less capable wheel, nor did I
relish the thought of a wheel failing
someday when I’m moving my
workstation around the shop.
Assembly: Rather than provide a step-bystep
progression through this project, I’ll
hit only the fine points. You already know
that you need to make accurate cuts.
I used two
rechargeable drills
for the assembly
process; one had a
bit installed and the other had a Phillipshead
driver. That way I could drill with one
and drive in screws using the other.
Remember that a 2 x 4 piece of wood is
actually 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches. A 4 x 4 is
actually 3.5 inches square—not 4. Allow
for these dimensions if you design your
own structure or work from a sketch.
Use as many squaring devices as you
can. Triangles and squares aren’t solely for
aligning wings, rudders, and stabilizers.
This project isn’t simply a table with
wheels. It needs to accommodate a lot of
equipment stored in various places, which
adds substantial weight to the final product.
I don’t want to find two years from now
that the entire table is swaybacked like an
old mare; there’s nothing I can do about it
at that point. I want it to stay flat.
If you don’t plan on storing heavy
power tools in your workbench, it probably
doesn’t have to be as substantial as mine is.
A few framed cubicles made from 1/2
plywood and plastic tubs would be fine.
Doors are a nice touch too.
I began by constructing the basic box
frame. Then I stained, sanded, and sealed it
with two or three coats of polyurethane. I
chose this sequence because it was easier to
manipulate the frame and turn it over to
apply the finish while the structure was still
mostly unbuilt.
I finished approximately 95% of the
structure and plywood panels (while they
were still large sheets) with polyurethane
before final assembly. If you wait until
you’re finished assembling the workstation
to apply the finish, you’ll find that your
structure has gained considerable mass.
This method provided me with a surface
that was 99% free of runs and drips. I
didn’t relish the thought of having to get on
my hands and knees to stain inside all of
the little crevices and sand them between
coats. This was by far the easiest but most
time-consuming (taking into account drying
time between coats) portion of the project.
I applied finish to one side of the
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January 2011 37
Work Surface: This is a sheet of 5/8 or 3/4
MDF trimmed to 4 x 6. You can buy it last,
when the construction is almost complete.
The last operation is to fasten the top
surface.
MDF requires no paint or finishing, but
I painted mine and then applied a coat of
polyurethane. When it gets old, scarred,
and stained, simply unscrew this surface,
flip it over, and reattach it. Then you have
a fresh top.
I learned that MDF is sold in 49 x 97-
inch sheets, so it’s 1 inch larger than
necessary all around. Have it trimmed for
you at the time of purchase.
You also need two sheets of 3/4 birch
(five ply) plywood, trimmed to 44 x 68
The Breakdown
Tools that are used most often are kept in
a cubby that is easy to access. Design your
workbench to suit your needs. Fill empty
spaces with drawers instead of shelves.
The frame supports the work surface in
several places, to prevent sagging. You can
build your workstation from a plan or start
with a frame and fill it in.
inches. These pieces are 2 inches undersized
all around (not 48 x 72 inches).
That is so that the MDF top will leave you
with a 2-inch lip on every side. If your finished
bench has no overhang, you can’t clamp
anything to it.
Compartment Walls and Drawer Frames:
Two or three sheets of 1/2 birch plywood
trimmed to 36 x 96 inches are required. I used
the better part of three sheets.
Also get 12 straight, high-quality 2 x 4s,
untrimmed. You won’t need them all, but
you will probably make a mistake or two
cutting them at home during construction. I
did. It’s best to have a few spares to save you
a trip to the store.
Four or five plywood sheets (the good stuff) $140-$180
One sheet of 5/8 MDF $25
12 8-foot 2 x 4s $30
Two 4 x 4s (cut into 36-inch sections) $24
Four caster wheels $44
One set of slides per drawer at $5 per set (optional) $50
One 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4 hardboard (optional) $12
Five boxes of coarse-thread drywall screws $25 (Two boxes of 3-inch, two boxes of 2-inch, 1 box of 15/8)
Eight steel corner brackets at $5.50 each $36
One gallon Min-Wax polyurethane (optional) $29
One gallon mineral spirits (optional) $12
Total $494 ($364 without drawers)
Estimated Materials Cost:
Two straight 4 x 4s, 8 feet long, will be
cut to exactly 36 inches and used as corner
supports. Check these for straightness. I cut
mine a tiny bit long and then made a series
of trimming cuts, to ensure that the final
length was correct.
Casters (Optional): These 4-inch casters
stand 5.25 inches tall. I obtained mine
locally, at Northern Tool and Equipment for
$11 each (part number 189341). The picture
in the online catalog is incorrect.
The casters I purchased came with the
bare minimum amount of grease in the
bearings. I used a grease gun to inject a
bit more. MA
—Tim Soukup
plywood sheeting all the way to its
completion. When I was satisfied with the
result, I finished the other side. This way I
didn’t have to keep track of how many
coats I had given each side.
From start to completion, this finishing
process took slightly more than three
weeks. If you omit a painted finish, you can
probably build your workstation in a threeday
weekend. If you omit the plans, you
can build it in maybe four hours.
If you put forth enough time and don’t
rush, you’ll have a fine workstation. I’m
guessing that the total amount of time that I
invested was close to 100 hours.
Do you remember those 1/2 plywood
sheets you had the store cut to 36 x 96
inches? They are going to make all of the
inner supports and cabinetry. Thirty-six
inches is exactly the spacing between the
plywood top and bottom.
As I mentioned, the complete
workstation, sitting on its wheels, will be
44 inches from the floor
There’s enough room to build several models on the
author’s rolling workstation. Its bright-blue finish is
excellent for photos and easy on the user’s eyes.
01sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 11/19/10 4:44 PM Page 37
38 MODEL AVIATION
to the surface of the medium-density
fiberboard (MDF) top. I’m tall, and I
appreciate being able to work on my models
without having to stoop over.
I framed the box structure on the garage
floor. When I was satisfied that all was
square, I fastened the bottom plywood using
3-inch screws and then flipped the entire
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structure right-side up to complete the
cabinets.
Install all inner walls and interior post
supports before you add the top piece of
plywood (predrilled) and MDF top. It’s easier
to install the drawers and their associated
hardware and the slide-out tables with the top
off. It would only be in the way at this point.
A smaller (and simpler) workstation certainly
won’t require this amount of preparation.
Whether or not you opt for drawers is up
to you. I suggest that you have all slide
hardware in hand, and follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations when you
build the drawers. That will affect the
dimensions of each drawer and depends on
whether you choose side- or bottom-mount
slides. Each type has its own mounting
method.
My workstation has a total of 11 drawers.
I recently got rid of an old computer desk, but
before it went out to the curb I scavenged all
of the slide hardware from it. I got three free
slides from that.
So I went a bit overbudget. The price will
change depending on who’s listening to you
tell the story and the dimensions of your
finished project. But I’ve got one sturdy
workstation, though, and I can even roll it
outside if I want.
Watch those saw blades and count your
fingers. Good luck! MA
Tim Soukup
[email protected]
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