Safety Comes First
Box 461, Lovell WY 82431; E-mail: [email protected]
AS THE SNOW FLIES: It's a good feeling to sit by a cozy fire and know that as soon as the weather breaks, you and your gear will be ready to go!
You know that being ready to go is not just an issue of quick-charging and driving to the field, but is everything you use really up to par?
You are more prone to accidents when you try to rush through things, so when the weather clears, be prepared!
If you haven't already done so, now is the time to relax by the fire and go through your equipment to ensure that the gremlins are removed and your next flight will be fun and safe. If you really are sitting by the fire, leave the fuel can in the garage!
Bob Blase, the editor of the Itasca (MN) Radio Control (RC) Association club newsletter, provides a few tips to get you pointed in the right direction.
"Be sure to give the entire airplane a thorough cleaning to remove all traces of exhaust residue. Check the covering to be sure the fuel is not creeping under seams around the firewall and areas around the exhaust outlet, soaking the balsa. If so, make the repairs during the off-season while you have some extra time.
"Check the fuselage and flying surfaces closely for cracks or other damage. Check the servo arms, control horns, clevises, pushrods, and/or control cables for excessive wear or damage.
"The airplane can be stored indoors or outdoors in the garage; the constant cold temperatures can be tough on batteries, but otherwise don't seem to cause any problems.
"The only problem that could occur would be if you stored it in, for example, a workshop that is heated occasionally and then allowed to cool down after use. This could result in damage to the engine due to condensation, and probably the balsa or covering material due to temperature changes.
"If you store the airplane on a wall, it should not be supported on the nose, as this could damage the engine bearings. Support it by the tail structure or similar means.
"If the wing is removed, do not stand it on end. Support it similar to the way it is normally mounted on the fuselage. Do not leave the weight of the airplane resting on the tires if you don't store it vertically.
"Engine: The major concern regarding engine storage is to remove all the glow fuel from the inside of the crankcase and cylinder to prevent rust formation on the bearings, crankshaft, etc. The best advice is to remove the engine from the airplane, remove the glow plug and backplate, and flush the inside out with a solvent such as kerosene.
"While the backplate is off, check it over for signs of rust, bearing failure, etc. After cleaning, generously oil the bearings and cylinder with lubricant, such as one of the after-run oils or Marvel Mystery Oil™.
"After it is well-oiled, reinstall the backplate and plug, and place it in a sealed plastic bag along with the mounting hardware until next season.
"If you decide not to remove the engine, at least remove the glow plug, pour some oil into the carburetor, and spin the engine over clockwise and counterclockwise to distribute the oil through the bearings. Add some oil through the glow-plug hole, turn the engine over slowly a few more times, and reinstall the glow plug.
"Remove the prop if it is made of wood. Put a plastic bag over the engine to keep dust and dirt out.
"Batteries: Ideally you should cycle the transmitter and receiver batteries and record their capacity for reference next season. If they are doubtful, cut the connector off and throw them away, and buy new next season. It is best to have them on a trickle charger to maintain a charge during the off-season.
"If this is not practical, try to charge them at least every one to two months. When ready to fly again next spring, cycle the batteries first to be sure they have adequate capacity.
"Transmitter/receiver/servos: Don't forget to check over the servo wiring and connectors. If there is any sign of corrosion on the connectors, get them replaced. Also, check the output shaft for looseness.
"Check the receiver antenna for damage. If there are any doubts, get it fixed or replaced. Extend the transmitter antenna and clean it with alcohol. Collapse the antenna and repeat the cleaning several times. (There are contact fingers inside each antenna section that may become coated with oil, preventing proper contact between sections, greatly reducing the transmitting range.)
"Field box/supplies/fluids: If you have fuel left, be sure it is capped tightly and store it in a cool place out of the sunlight. Some recommend against storing fuel in very cold temperatures, but I have not had any problems doing this in the past.
"Starter battery: If you have an electric-starter hookup, remove the 12-volt lead acid battery, clean the terminals, and check the electrolyte level. Add water if necessary. This battery, as any battery, if stored outdoors during the winter, A monthly charging will keep the battery from freezing and also extend its life.
"Miscellaneous: If you have a handful of used rubber bands as I do, throw them out and plan to buy a new box next season. This would be a good time to check your supply of spare glow plugs, props, etc., and make up parts list to replace those used during the summer.
"If during your inspection you run into problems or there is something you are not sure about, call another club member for some advice or suggestions. Make the repairs during the winter and save the warm weather for flying!"
Many of the engines we use today have fuel-pump parts that use silicone pieces. To ensure good engine-storage protection and to make sure your after-run oil doesn't dissolve silicone, try automatic transmission fluid.
I've used it for years in everything that's pumped and have had great success. I can go out in the coldest weather and get a good start.
How much does it cost? Approximately $1 per quart—enough to last many years!
"Can You See It?: In a past column, I questioned why most propeller manufacturers paint the tips of their propellers to improve visibility when they are run. The answers varied greatly, but following are a few examples.
"Modelers should know not to stick their hands into one."
"It's not scale if it's painted."
"We'd paint ours (over 12 inches), but modelers tend to want to paint their own color schemes to match a scale project."
"If propellers were painted, balance would be an issue and the cost per unit would go up."
Nothing I received indicated any concern for safety for any propeller size. The concern is obvious. If you can't see it, you're much more likely to stick something into it.
Do you paint your tips? Why or why not? Drop me a line or an E-mail explaining your opinion. Is it your responsibility or the manufacturer's responsibility to ensure that propeller tips are visible when they are spinning?
Until next month... LD
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
