100 MODEL AVIATION
Paul Bradley
S m a l l - F i e l d F l y i n g
32238 Spinnaker Run, Magnolia TX 77354; E-mail: [email protected]
IN THE MARCH 2004 column I
mentioned the Fan-Tastic Models AT-6
Texan kit. Because of space limitations, I
was not able to give you many details
about this model. Let me pick up where I
left off.
With so many build-from-parts kits and
ARF offerings available to the small-field
flier, I thought it would be appropriate to
spend a little time looking at a specific
model that seems to offer something for
almost every small-field flier’s area of
interest.
Some of us get a major portion of our
model-aviation enjoyment through the
process of converting raw materials or a
number of individual parts into a great
flying machine. Others prefer to focus on
the flying portion of the hobby and
purchase highly prefabricated models.
From a flying perspective, some people
like sedate models that will fly
comfortably. Others prefer an airplane that
will tax the pilot’s skills through aerobatics
or types of flying that require a high level
of pilot involvement during the flight, such
as Pylon Racing.
Given the wide range of building and
flying interests—especially within the small-field-flying
community—kit manufacturers have some interesting decisions to
make regarding their offerings.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 caught my eye because it offers
something for a large percentage of the enthusiasts’ span of interests. It
involves some assembly of parts, but also employs major components
that are nearly finished to minimize building time. To better visualize
this aspect of the model, take a look at the photo of the kit’s contents.
The finished airplane can be flown comfortably or with gusto.
Because it spans such a wide range of interests, I thought it would be
Fan-Tastic Models’ AT-6 covers a wide range of small-field-flying interests.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 Texan kit is a nice mix of parts and
nearly finished major components.
The AT-6’s scale ailerons are actuated with a lightweight,
continuous-loop cable system.
worth taking a closer look at some of its distinguishing features.
The AT-6 that I built is shown in the photos. I like the fact that you
can apply any color-and-markings you desire. You can go with a scale
motif or something original.
When I assembled the kit, I planned to do some pylon racing so I
decided to go with a Reno-racer look. The markings are purely
fictional. The base color is Testors Spray Competition Orange. Use of
a foam-safe spray paint resulted in a light, easy-to-apply foundation
color.
To add a few detail markings, I made some decals using
102 MODEL AVIATION
Wing Servo (GWS) DX-A electric motor
and gear drive. That setup employs a
5.86:1 gearbox and can handle voltages
in the seven- and eight-cell battery pack
range. That is especially nice for the
two-cell Lithium-Polymer cells that are
becoming so popular within the electricpower
community.
Another unique feature of the AT-6
kit is the motor-mounting arrangement
for the GWS package. A strip of styrene
plastic is glued to the top of the gearbox.
The motor assembly is then slipped into
a fabricated foam disk.
With the motor inserted into the disk,
the diameter is slightly larger than the
inside diameter of the fuselage. The
foam is compressed and slid into the
fuselage. A clearance is provided around
the motor for cooling. Any desired thrust
adjustments are simply a matter of
moving the motor assembly.
Once in place, a bit of foam-safe
cyanoacrylate is applied to the foam disk
to hold it to the fuselage shell. The motor
can easily be pulled from the disk if
needed, but is otherwise fully retained
for flying. This nice motor mount is
simple, light, and absorbs shock.
In addition to having some
interesting design features, the AT-6 is a
great small-field flyer. I have been flying mine in a confined
space with no difficulty. It makes tight pylon turns, so it can be
kept inside close spaces—such as an indoor facility—with little
difficulty. Although it’s not a Pattern aircraft, the AT-6
performs a nice set of aerobatics. You can have fun doing closein
loops, rolls, and simply flying it around.
These are only a few highlights of the Fan-Tastic Models
AT-6 Texan. It is a nice kit that can cover a wide range of
interests within the small-field-flying community.
Printing on Balsa—an Alternative Approach: In several past
columns I have shared my efforts to reproduce the old Top Flite
Jigtime models. These projects have taken advantage of some
features of my computer’s ink-jet printer that allow the parts of
the models to be printed directly on balsa sheets.
That is great if you have a printer that permits you to print on
balsa, but what if your printer does not support that process? I
have another method to share with you that gives the same level
of color and marking application with only a slight weight
penalty.
special decal stock made for computer ink-jet printers. I used the
AT-6 as a trial for this decal process, and I was happy with the
results.
As with any technique new to a builder, I have more to learn
about homemade ink-jet decals, but I can certainly recommend
the process to anyone with a computer and ink-jet printer. My
source for the material is given at the end of the column.
There are several features of this model that are noteworthy.
One is the aileron setup. Keeping the model light is always a
primary goal. Aileron installations tend to add weight. This is
especially true when duplicating scale ailerons.
Fan-Tastic Models designer Jerry Small has overcome that
problem with an effective and lightweight cable linkage
installation. A photo has been provided of the aileron cable
setup. It is a continuous loop of low-stretch material routed to
each aileron with the servo arms in the middle. The system
works nicely.
Power for the AT-6 is the now-common, inexpensive Grand
Fred Stafford prints on tissue and then applies it to the balsa
with clear dope. Text has more details.
Ralph Bradley’s 7.75-inch micro model uses tissue over foam. This process is well
suited to smaller, lightweight models. See text for details.
The AT-6 uses a unique and effective foam motor mount that is
compressed to slide inside the fuselage.
This was going to be the process I used
to do my Jigtime-model reproductions
before I learned I could print directly on
balsa. Fred Stafford of Wayne, Michigan,
uses this printing method. He sent me a
note indicating that he wanted to take
advantage of the Jigtime model plans I had
made available via the Internet, but he was
not able to print directly on balsa. Being
resourceful, Fred came up with an
approach that works great.
The idea was to print the parts on
lightweight tissue paper. Fred first used
lightweight silkspan, but later switched to
tissue. After printing the parts on tissue
they are attached to balsa sheets using
thinned, nonshrinking clear dope such as
Sig Lite-Coat.
The parts are then cut out and
assembled just as they would be if the
color-and-markings had been printed
directly on the balsa. The results look
great, and the weight gain is nominal.
Take a look at the photos to see the
Jigtime Rascal parts Fred created using
this process.
It is surprisingly easy to print on tissue
paper with an ink-jet printer. My process
is to use a piece of printer paper as a
backing sheet. I use a backing sheet equal
in size to the tissue sheet I want to print.
For printers that support banner printing,
you can use sheets 81⁄2 inches wide and a
long length.
To hold the tissue to the backing sheet,
spray some 3M Photo Mount adhesive on
the backing sheet. Stick it to a piece of
cardboard and peel it off four or five times
to eliminate the tack. Then apply the tissue
to the backing sheet and smooth it out.
When printing, I typically use the draft
setting. Once printed, the tissue is easily
removed from the backing sheet. The
backing sheet can be reused many times
without having to apply more spray
adhesive.
Sheet-balsa models in the 18- to 24-
inch-wingspan range make wonderful
small-field flyers. Using computer-printed
tissue as a means of dressing them up
opens many possibilities for creating that
head-turning model.
We are not limited to applying computerprinted
tissue to balsa. Since I have discussed
a foam-based model along with a process for
creating jazzy tissue, I’ll also cover a process
for combining these two modeling materials.
For many good reasons, foam is a popular
material for small-field models. The most
common method of applying color-andmarkings
to foam is paint and decals. It is
also possible to apply colored or ink-jetprinted
tissue to foam to create a lightweight
finish that will add structural strength to the
model.
There are a variety of ways to do this. My
brother Ralph developed one that I think is
especially well suited to smaller, lightweight
models.
When building a small foam-based
model, Ralph needed to add a little
strength to the foam wings. From many
years of Free Flight model building, he
knew that tissue would add considerable
strength to a lightweight structure. His
goal was to find a technique that would
allow tissue to be applied over foam and
would not add much weight. Through a
series of experiments, he developed a
method.
Using white glue to attach brown paper
to foam is a well-established way to build
a strong, rigid structure. White glue can be
slightly heavy, but this method is suitable
for covering larger models.
To adapt the basic process to the use of
tissue, Ralph found that he could isolate
the heavy solids used in white glues and
yellow glues to produce a lightweight
liquid that can attach tissue to foam. The
trick is to mix the white glue with alcohol.
Ralph uses the common drug-store
variety of alcohol that is roughly 30%
water. When mixed, the solids in the glue
form a large blob. Your first reaction is
that the solution is apparently useless. In
fact, the big blob is all the solids in the
glue, and when removed from the mixing
container, a clear solution the consistency
of egg whites remains.
This result seems to be the same
whether using white glue such as Elmer’s
or yellow (aliphatic resin) glue such as
Titebond. When the clear material has
been separated it can be further reduced by
adding more alcohol until the desired
brushing consistency is achieved. The
104 MODEL AVIATION
resulting clear liquid is lightweight and
sticks tissue to foam beautifully.
To apply the tissue, paint a coat of the
clear glue on the foam. Lay the tissue over
the glue. After the wrinkles are smoothed
out and the piece is properly aligned,
lightly burnish it with your finger. Apply a
top coat of the clear glue liquid and set
aside to dry.
That is all there is to this simple and
highly effective process. You can use
colored tissue or tissue you have created
on your ink-jet printer. The presence of
water in the alcohol does not seem to
affect the ink in computer-printed tissue.
The added strength is truly surprising and
the weight gain is minimal even on fairly
small models.
One of Ralph’s trials for the process
was a small 7.75-inch-span micro RC
model as seen in the picture. The wing of
this model is tissue-covered foam using
the described procedure. The ready-tofly
weight of this tiny airplane is 15
grams.
If you are looking for a way to dress
up your next foam-based model that will
also add strength to the structure, you
might want to consider Ralph’s tissueover-
foam process.
Once again, I have reached the end of
this column. As always, please let me
know what you are up to in the world of
small-field flying. MA
Sources:
Fan-Tastic Models
3204 Johnson Rd.
Southlake TX 76092
(817) 379-6468
www.fan-tasticmodels.com
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Fax: (615) 377-6948
www.hobby-lobby.com
Micro-Mark
340 Snyder Ave.
Berkeley Heights NJ 07922
(800) 225-1066
Fax: (908) 665-9383
www.micromark.com
Planned Giving to AMA
You may make gifts to AMA of:
or with a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT)
• Immediate income tax deduction
• Lifetime income for you and your spouse (or other
beneficiary)
• Reduction in estate taxes
• Money for your favorite charities
Interested? Contact AMA Executive Director Joyce Hager at
(765) 287-1256, extension 200.
Cash
Securities
Insurance
Gems
Real Estate
Etc.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/05
Page Numbers: 100,102,104,106
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/05
Page Numbers: 100,102,104,106
100 MODEL AVIATION
Paul Bradley
S m a l l - F i e l d F l y i n g
32238 Spinnaker Run, Magnolia TX 77354; E-mail: [email protected]
IN THE MARCH 2004 column I
mentioned the Fan-Tastic Models AT-6
Texan kit. Because of space limitations, I
was not able to give you many details
about this model. Let me pick up where I
left off.
With so many build-from-parts kits and
ARF offerings available to the small-field
flier, I thought it would be appropriate to
spend a little time looking at a specific
model that seems to offer something for
almost every small-field flier’s area of
interest.
Some of us get a major portion of our
model-aviation enjoyment through the
process of converting raw materials or a
number of individual parts into a great
flying machine. Others prefer to focus on
the flying portion of the hobby and
purchase highly prefabricated models.
From a flying perspective, some people
like sedate models that will fly
comfortably. Others prefer an airplane that
will tax the pilot’s skills through aerobatics
or types of flying that require a high level
of pilot involvement during the flight, such
as Pylon Racing.
Given the wide range of building and
flying interests—especially within the small-field-flying
community—kit manufacturers have some interesting decisions to
make regarding their offerings.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 caught my eye because it offers
something for a large percentage of the enthusiasts’ span of interests. It
involves some assembly of parts, but also employs major components
that are nearly finished to minimize building time. To better visualize
this aspect of the model, take a look at the photo of the kit’s contents.
The finished airplane can be flown comfortably or with gusto.
Because it spans such a wide range of interests, I thought it would be
Fan-Tastic Models’ AT-6 covers a wide range of small-field-flying interests.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 Texan kit is a nice mix of parts and
nearly finished major components.
The AT-6’s scale ailerons are actuated with a lightweight,
continuous-loop cable system.
worth taking a closer look at some of its distinguishing features.
The AT-6 that I built is shown in the photos. I like the fact that you
can apply any color-and-markings you desire. You can go with a scale
motif or something original.
When I assembled the kit, I planned to do some pylon racing so I
decided to go with a Reno-racer look. The markings are purely
fictional. The base color is Testors Spray Competition Orange. Use of
a foam-safe spray paint resulted in a light, easy-to-apply foundation
color.
To add a few detail markings, I made some decals using
102 MODEL AVIATION
Wing Servo (GWS) DX-A electric motor
and gear drive. That setup employs a
5.86:1 gearbox and can handle voltages
in the seven- and eight-cell battery pack
range. That is especially nice for the
two-cell Lithium-Polymer cells that are
becoming so popular within the electricpower
community.
Another unique feature of the AT-6
kit is the motor-mounting arrangement
for the GWS package. A strip of styrene
plastic is glued to the top of the gearbox.
The motor assembly is then slipped into
a fabricated foam disk.
With the motor inserted into the disk,
the diameter is slightly larger than the
inside diameter of the fuselage. The
foam is compressed and slid into the
fuselage. A clearance is provided around
the motor for cooling. Any desired thrust
adjustments are simply a matter of
moving the motor assembly.
Once in place, a bit of foam-safe
cyanoacrylate is applied to the foam disk
to hold it to the fuselage shell. The motor
can easily be pulled from the disk if
needed, but is otherwise fully retained
for flying. This nice motor mount is
simple, light, and absorbs shock.
In addition to having some
interesting design features, the AT-6 is a
great small-field flyer. I have been flying mine in a confined
space with no difficulty. It makes tight pylon turns, so it can be
kept inside close spaces—such as an indoor facility—with little
difficulty. Although it’s not a Pattern aircraft, the AT-6
performs a nice set of aerobatics. You can have fun doing closein
loops, rolls, and simply flying it around.
These are only a few highlights of the Fan-Tastic Models
AT-6 Texan. It is a nice kit that can cover a wide range of
interests within the small-field-flying community.
Printing on Balsa—an Alternative Approach: In several past
columns I have shared my efforts to reproduce the old Top Flite
Jigtime models. These projects have taken advantage of some
features of my computer’s ink-jet printer that allow the parts of
the models to be printed directly on balsa sheets.
That is great if you have a printer that permits you to print on
balsa, but what if your printer does not support that process? I
have another method to share with you that gives the same level
of color and marking application with only a slight weight
penalty.
special decal stock made for computer ink-jet printers. I used the
AT-6 as a trial for this decal process, and I was happy with the
results.
As with any technique new to a builder, I have more to learn
about homemade ink-jet decals, but I can certainly recommend
the process to anyone with a computer and ink-jet printer. My
source for the material is given at the end of the column.
There are several features of this model that are noteworthy.
One is the aileron setup. Keeping the model light is always a
primary goal. Aileron installations tend to add weight. This is
especially true when duplicating scale ailerons.
Fan-Tastic Models designer Jerry Small has overcome that
problem with an effective and lightweight cable linkage
installation. A photo has been provided of the aileron cable
setup. It is a continuous loop of low-stretch material routed to
each aileron with the servo arms in the middle. The system
works nicely.
Power for the AT-6 is the now-common, inexpensive Grand
Fred Stafford prints on tissue and then applies it to the balsa
with clear dope. Text has more details.
Ralph Bradley’s 7.75-inch micro model uses tissue over foam. This process is well
suited to smaller, lightweight models. See text for details.
The AT-6 uses a unique and effective foam motor mount that is
compressed to slide inside the fuselage.
This was going to be the process I used
to do my Jigtime-model reproductions
before I learned I could print directly on
balsa. Fred Stafford of Wayne, Michigan,
uses this printing method. He sent me a
note indicating that he wanted to take
advantage of the Jigtime model plans I had
made available via the Internet, but he was
not able to print directly on balsa. Being
resourceful, Fred came up with an
approach that works great.
The idea was to print the parts on
lightweight tissue paper. Fred first used
lightweight silkspan, but later switched to
tissue. After printing the parts on tissue
they are attached to balsa sheets using
thinned, nonshrinking clear dope such as
Sig Lite-Coat.
The parts are then cut out and
assembled just as they would be if the
color-and-markings had been printed
directly on the balsa. The results look
great, and the weight gain is nominal.
Take a look at the photos to see the
Jigtime Rascal parts Fred created using
this process.
It is surprisingly easy to print on tissue
paper with an ink-jet printer. My process
is to use a piece of printer paper as a
backing sheet. I use a backing sheet equal
in size to the tissue sheet I want to print.
For printers that support banner printing,
you can use sheets 81⁄2 inches wide and a
long length.
To hold the tissue to the backing sheet,
spray some 3M Photo Mount adhesive on
the backing sheet. Stick it to a piece of
cardboard and peel it off four or five times
to eliminate the tack. Then apply the tissue
to the backing sheet and smooth it out.
When printing, I typically use the draft
setting. Once printed, the tissue is easily
removed from the backing sheet. The
backing sheet can be reused many times
without having to apply more spray
adhesive.
Sheet-balsa models in the 18- to 24-
inch-wingspan range make wonderful
small-field flyers. Using computer-printed
tissue as a means of dressing them up
opens many possibilities for creating that
head-turning model.
We are not limited to applying computerprinted
tissue to balsa. Since I have discussed
a foam-based model along with a process for
creating jazzy tissue, I’ll also cover a process
for combining these two modeling materials.
For many good reasons, foam is a popular
material for small-field models. The most
common method of applying color-andmarkings
to foam is paint and decals. It is
also possible to apply colored or ink-jetprinted
tissue to foam to create a lightweight
finish that will add structural strength to the
model.
There are a variety of ways to do this. My
brother Ralph developed one that I think is
especially well suited to smaller, lightweight
models.
When building a small foam-based
model, Ralph needed to add a little
strength to the foam wings. From many
years of Free Flight model building, he
knew that tissue would add considerable
strength to a lightweight structure. His
goal was to find a technique that would
allow tissue to be applied over foam and
would not add much weight. Through a
series of experiments, he developed a
method.
Using white glue to attach brown paper
to foam is a well-established way to build
a strong, rigid structure. White glue can be
slightly heavy, but this method is suitable
for covering larger models.
To adapt the basic process to the use of
tissue, Ralph found that he could isolate
the heavy solids used in white glues and
yellow glues to produce a lightweight
liquid that can attach tissue to foam. The
trick is to mix the white glue with alcohol.
Ralph uses the common drug-store
variety of alcohol that is roughly 30%
water. When mixed, the solids in the glue
form a large blob. Your first reaction is
that the solution is apparently useless. In
fact, the big blob is all the solids in the
glue, and when removed from the mixing
container, a clear solution the consistency
of egg whites remains.
This result seems to be the same
whether using white glue such as Elmer’s
or yellow (aliphatic resin) glue such as
Titebond. When the clear material has
been separated it can be further reduced by
adding more alcohol until the desired
brushing consistency is achieved. The
104 MODEL AVIATION
resulting clear liquid is lightweight and
sticks tissue to foam beautifully.
To apply the tissue, paint a coat of the
clear glue on the foam. Lay the tissue over
the glue. After the wrinkles are smoothed
out and the piece is properly aligned,
lightly burnish it with your finger. Apply a
top coat of the clear glue liquid and set
aside to dry.
That is all there is to this simple and
highly effective process. You can use
colored tissue or tissue you have created
on your ink-jet printer. The presence of
water in the alcohol does not seem to
affect the ink in computer-printed tissue.
The added strength is truly surprising and
the weight gain is minimal even on fairly
small models.
One of Ralph’s trials for the process
was a small 7.75-inch-span micro RC
model as seen in the picture. The wing of
this model is tissue-covered foam using
the described procedure. The ready-tofly
weight of this tiny airplane is 15
grams.
If you are looking for a way to dress
up your next foam-based model that will
also add strength to the structure, you
might want to consider Ralph’s tissueover-
foam process.
Once again, I have reached the end of
this column. As always, please let me
know what you are up to in the world of
small-field flying. MA
Sources:
Fan-Tastic Models
3204 Johnson Rd.
Southlake TX 76092
(817) 379-6468
www.fan-tasticmodels.com
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Fax: (615) 377-6948
www.hobby-lobby.com
Micro-Mark
340 Snyder Ave.
Berkeley Heights NJ 07922
(800) 225-1066
Fax: (908) 665-9383
www.micromark.com
Planned Giving to AMA
You may make gifts to AMA of:
or with a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT)
• Immediate income tax deduction
• Lifetime income for you and your spouse (or other
beneficiary)
• Reduction in estate taxes
• Money for your favorite charities
Interested? Contact AMA Executive Director Joyce Hager at
(765) 287-1256, extension 200.
Cash
Securities
Insurance
Gems
Real Estate
Etc.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/05
Page Numbers: 100,102,104,106
100 MODEL AVIATION
Paul Bradley
S m a l l - F i e l d F l y i n g
32238 Spinnaker Run, Magnolia TX 77354; E-mail: [email protected]
IN THE MARCH 2004 column I
mentioned the Fan-Tastic Models AT-6
Texan kit. Because of space limitations, I
was not able to give you many details
about this model. Let me pick up where I
left off.
With so many build-from-parts kits and
ARF offerings available to the small-field
flier, I thought it would be appropriate to
spend a little time looking at a specific
model that seems to offer something for
almost every small-field flier’s area of
interest.
Some of us get a major portion of our
model-aviation enjoyment through the
process of converting raw materials or a
number of individual parts into a great
flying machine. Others prefer to focus on
the flying portion of the hobby and
purchase highly prefabricated models.
From a flying perspective, some people
like sedate models that will fly
comfortably. Others prefer an airplane that
will tax the pilot’s skills through aerobatics
or types of flying that require a high level
of pilot involvement during the flight, such
as Pylon Racing.
Given the wide range of building and
flying interests—especially within the small-field-flying
community—kit manufacturers have some interesting decisions to
make regarding their offerings.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 caught my eye because it offers
something for a large percentage of the enthusiasts’ span of interests. It
involves some assembly of parts, but also employs major components
that are nearly finished to minimize building time. To better visualize
this aspect of the model, take a look at the photo of the kit’s contents.
The finished airplane can be flown comfortably or with gusto.
Because it spans such a wide range of interests, I thought it would be
Fan-Tastic Models’ AT-6 covers a wide range of small-field-flying interests.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 Texan kit is a nice mix of parts and
nearly finished major components.
The AT-6’s scale ailerons are actuated with a lightweight,
continuous-loop cable system.
worth taking a closer look at some of its distinguishing features.
The AT-6 that I built is shown in the photos. I like the fact that you
can apply any color-and-markings you desire. You can go with a scale
motif or something original.
When I assembled the kit, I planned to do some pylon racing so I
decided to go with a Reno-racer look. The markings are purely
fictional. The base color is Testors Spray Competition Orange. Use of
a foam-safe spray paint resulted in a light, easy-to-apply foundation
color.
To add a few detail markings, I made some decals using
102 MODEL AVIATION
Wing Servo (GWS) DX-A electric motor
and gear drive. That setup employs a
5.86:1 gearbox and can handle voltages
in the seven- and eight-cell battery pack
range. That is especially nice for the
two-cell Lithium-Polymer cells that are
becoming so popular within the electricpower
community.
Another unique feature of the AT-6
kit is the motor-mounting arrangement
for the GWS package. A strip of styrene
plastic is glued to the top of the gearbox.
The motor assembly is then slipped into
a fabricated foam disk.
With the motor inserted into the disk,
the diameter is slightly larger than the
inside diameter of the fuselage. The
foam is compressed and slid into the
fuselage. A clearance is provided around
the motor for cooling. Any desired thrust
adjustments are simply a matter of
moving the motor assembly.
Once in place, a bit of foam-safe
cyanoacrylate is applied to the foam disk
to hold it to the fuselage shell. The motor
can easily be pulled from the disk if
needed, but is otherwise fully retained
for flying. This nice motor mount is
simple, light, and absorbs shock.
In addition to having some
interesting design features, the AT-6 is a
great small-field flyer. I have been flying mine in a confined
space with no difficulty. It makes tight pylon turns, so it can be
kept inside close spaces—such as an indoor facility—with little
difficulty. Although it’s not a Pattern aircraft, the AT-6
performs a nice set of aerobatics. You can have fun doing closein
loops, rolls, and simply flying it around.
These are only a few highlights of the Fan-Tastic Models
AT-6 Texan. It is a nice kit that can cover a wide range of
interests within the small-field-flying community.
Printing on Balsa—an Alternative Approach: In several past
columns I have shared my efforts to reproduce the old Top Flite
Jigtime models. These projects have taken advantage of some
features of my computer’s ink-jet printer that allow the parts of
the models to be printed directly on balsa sheets.
That is great if you have a printer that permits you to print on
balsa, but what if your printer does not support that process? I
have another method to share with you that gives the same level
of color and marking application with only a slight weight
penalty.
special decal stock made for computer ink-jet printers. I used the
AT-6 as a trial for this decal process, and I was happy with the
results.
As with any technique new to a builder, I have more to learn
about homemade ink-jet decals, but I can certainly recommend
the process to anyone with a computer and ink-jet printer. My
source for the material is given at the end of the column.
There are several features of this model that are noteworthy.
One is the aileron setup. Keeping the model light is always a
primary goal. Aileron installations tend to add weight. This is
especially true when duplicating scale ailerons.
Fan-Tastic Models designer Jerry Small has overcome that
problem with an effective and lightweight cable linkage
installation. A photo has been provided of the aileron cable
setup. It is a continuous loop of low-stretch material routed to
each aileron with the servo arms in the middle. The system
works nicely.
Power for the AT-6 is the now-common, inexpensive Grand
Fred Stafford prints on tissue and then applies it to the balsa
with clear dope. Text has more details.
Ralph Bradley’s 7.75-inch micro model uses tissue over foam. This process is well
suited to smaller, lightweight models. See text for details.
The AT-6 uses a unique and effective foam motor mount that is
compressed to slide inside the fuselage.
This was going to be the process I used
to do my Jigtime-model reproductions
before I learned I could print directly on
balsa. Fred Stafford of Wayne, Michigan,
uses this printing method. He sent me a
note indicating that he wanted to take
advantage of the Jigtime model plans I had
made available via the Internet, but he was
not able to print directly on balsa. Being
resourceful, Fred came up with an
approach that works great.
The idea was to print the parts on
lightweight tissue paper. Fred first used
lightweight silkspan, but later switched to
tissue. After printing the parts on tissue
they are attached to balsa sheets using
thinned, nonshrinking clear dope such as
Sig Lite-Coat.
The parts are then cut out and
assembled just as they would be if the
color-and-markings had been printed
directly on the balsa. The results look
great, and the weight gain is nominal.
Take a look at the photos to see the
Jigtime Rascal parts Fred created using
this process.
It is surprisingly easy to print on tissue
paper with an ink-jet printer. My process
is to use a piece of printer paper as a
backing sheet. I use a backing sheet equal
in size to the tissue sheet I want to print.
For printers that support banner printing,
you can use sheets 81⁄2 inches wide and a
long length.
To hold the tissue to the backing sheet,
spray some 3M Photo Mount adhesive on
the backing sheet. Stick it to a piece of
cardboard and peel it off four or five times
to eliminate the tack. Then apply the tissue
to the backing sheet and smooth it out.
When printing, I typically use the draft
setting. Once printed, the tissue is easily
removed from the backing sheet. The
backing sheet can be reused many times
without having to apply more spray
adhesive.
Sheet-balsa models in the 18- to 24-
inch-wingspan range make wonderful
small-field flyers. Using computer-printed
tissue as a means of dressing them up
opens many possibilities for creating that
head-turning model.
We are not limited to applying computerprinted
tissue to balsa. Since I have discussed
a foam-based model along with a process for
creating jazzy tissue, I’ll also cover a process
for combining these two modeling materials.
For many good reasons, foam is a popular
material for small-field models. The most
common method of applying color-andmarkings
to foam is paint and decals. It is
also possible to apply colored or ink-jetprinted
tissue to foam to create a lightweight
finish that will add structural strength to the
model.
There are a variety of ways to do this. My
brother Ralph developed one that I think is
especially well suited to smaller, lightweight
models.
When building a small foam-based
model, Ralph needed to add a little
strength to the foam wings. From many
years of Free Flight model building, he
knew that tissue would add considerable
strength to a lightweight structure. His
goal was to find a technique that would
allow tissue to be applied over foam and
would not add much weight. Through a
series of experiments, he developed a
method.
Using white glue to attach brown paper
to foam is a well-established way to build
a strong, rigid structure. White glue can be
slightly heavy, but this method is suitable
for covering larger models.
To adapt the basic process to the use of
tissue, Ralph found that he could isolate
the heavy solids used in white glues and
yellow glues to produce a lightweight
liquid that can attach tissue to foam. The
trick is to mix the white glue with alcohol.
Ralph uses the common drug-store
variety of alcohol that is roughly 30%
water. When mixed, the solids in the glue
form a large blob. Your first reaction is
that the solution is apparently useless. In
fact, the big blob is all the solids in the
glue, and when removed from the mixing
container, a clear solution the consistency
of egg whites remains.
This result seems to be the same
whether using white glue such as Elmer’s
or yellow (aliphatic resin) glue such as
Titebond. When the clear material has
been separated it can be further reduced by
adding more alcohol until the desired
brushing consistency is achieved. The
104 MODEL AVIATION
resulting clear liquid is lightweight and
sticks tissue to foam beautifully.
To apply the tissue, paint a coat of the
clear glue on the foam. Lay the tissue over
the glue. After the wrinkles are smoothed
out and the piece is properly aligned,
lightly burnish it with your finger. Apply a
top coat of the clear glue liquid and set
aside to dry.
That is all there is to this simple and
highly effective process. You can use
colored tissue or tissue you have created
on your ink-jet printer. The presence of
water in the alcohol does not seem to
affect the ink in computer-printed tissue.
The added strength is truly surprising and
the weight gain is minimal even on fairly
small models.
One of Ralph’s trials for the process
was a small 7.75-inch-span micro RC
model as seen in the picture. The wing of
this model is tissue-covered foam using
the described procedure. The ready-tofly
weight of this tiny airplane is 15
grams.
If you are looking for a way to dress
up your next foam-based model that will
also add strength to the structure, you
might want to consider Ralph’s tissueover-
foam process.
Once again, I have reached the end of
this column. As always, please let me
know what you are up to in the world of
small-field flying. MA
Sources:
Fan-Tastic Models
3204 Johnson Rd.
Southlake TX 76092
(817) 379-6468
www.fan-tasticmodels.com
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Fax: (615) 377-6948
www.hobby-lobby.com
Micro-Mark
340 Snyder Ave.
Berkeley Heights NJ 07922
(800) 225-1066
Fax: (908) 665-9383
www.micromark.com
Planned Giving to AMA
You may make gifts to AMA of:
or with a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT)
• Immediate income tax deduction
• Lifetime income for you and your spouse (or other
beneficiary)
• Reduction in estate taxes
• Money for your favorite charities
Interested? Contact AMA Executive Director Joyce Hager at
(765) 287-1256, extension 200.
Cash
Securities
Insurance
Gems
Real Estate
Etc.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/05
Page Numbers: 100,102,104,106
100 MODEL AVIATION
Paul Bradley
S m a l l - F i e l d F l y i n g
32238 Spinnaker Run, Magnolia TX 77354; E-mail: [email protected]
IN THE MARCH 2004 column I
mentioned the Fan-Tastic Models AT-6
Texan kit. Because of space limitations, I
was not able to give you many details
about this model. Let me pick up where I
left off.
With so many build-from-parts kits and
ARF offerings available to the small-field
flier, I thought it would be appropriate to
spend a little time looking at a specific
model that seems to offer something for
almost every small-field flier’s area of
interest.
Some of us get a major portion of our
model-aviation enjoyment through the
process of converting raw materials or a
number of individual parts into a great
flying machine. Others prefer to focus on
the flying portion of the hobby and
purchase highly prefabricated models.
From a flying perspective, some people
like sedate models that will fly
comfortably. Others prefer an airplane that
will tax the pilot’s skills through aerobatics
or types of flying that require a high level
of pilot involvement during the flight, such
as Pylon Racing.
Given the wide range of building and
flying interests—especially within the small-field-flying
community—kit manufacturers have some interesting decisions to
make regarding their offerings.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 caught my eye because it offers
something for a large percentage of the enthusiasts’ span of interests. It
involves some assembly of parts, but also employs major components
that are nearly finished to minimize building time. To better visualize
this aspect of the model, take a look at the photo of the kit’s contents.
The finished airplane can be flown comfortably or with gusto.
Because it spans such a wide range of interests, I thought it would be
Fan-Tastic Models’ AT-6 covers a wide range of small-field-flying interests.
The Fan-Tastic Models AT-6 Texan kit is a nice mix of parts and
nearly finished major components.
The AT-6’s scale ailerons are actuated with a lightweight,
continuous-loop cable system.
worth taking a closer look at some of its distinguishing features.
The AT-6 that I built is shown in the photos. I like the fact that you
can apply any color-and-markings you desire. You can go with a scale
motif or something original.
When I assembled the kit, I planned to do some pylon racing so I
decided to go with a Reno-racer look. The markings are purely
fictional. The base color is Testors Spray Competition Orange. Use of
a foam-safe spray paint resulted in a light, easy-to-apply foundation
color.
To add a few detail markings, I made some decals using
102 MODEL AVIATION
Wing Servo (GWS) DX-A electric motor
and gear drive. That setup employs a
5.86:1 gearbox and can handle voltages
in the seven- and eight-cell battery pack
range. That is especially nice for the
two-cell Lithium-Polymer cells that are
becoming so popular within the electricpower
community.
Another unique feature of the AT-6
kit is the motor-mounting arrangement
for the GWS package. A strip of styrene
plastic is glued to the top of the gearbox.
The motor assembly is then slipped into
a fabricated foam disk.
With the motor inserted into the disk,
the diameter is slightly larger than the
inside diameter of the fuselage. The
foam is compressed and slid into the
fuselage. A clearance is provided around
the motor for cooling. Any desired thrust
adjustments are simply a matter of
moving the motor assembly.
Once in place, a bit of foam-safe
cyanoacrylate is applied to the foam disk
to hold it to the fuselage shell. The motor
can easily be pulled from the disk if
needed, but is otherwise fully retained
for flying. This nice motor mount is
simple, light, and absorbs shock.
In addition to having some
interesting design features, the AT-6 is a
great small-field flyer. I have been flying mine in a confined
space with no difficulty. It makes tight pylon turns, so it can be
kept inside close spaces—such as an indoor facility—with little
difficulty. Although it’s not a Pattern aircraft, the AT-6
performs a nice set of aerobatics. You can have fun doing closein
loops, rolls, and simply flying it around.
These are only a few highlights of the Fan-Tastic Models
AT-6 Texan. It is a nice kit that can cover a wide range of
interests within the small-field-flying community.
Printing on Balsa—an Alternative Approach: In several past
columns I have shared my efforts to reproduce the old Top Flite
Jigtime models. These projects have taken advantage of some
features of my computer’s ink-jet printer that allow the parts of
the models to be printed directly on balsa sheets.
That is great if you have a printer that permits you to print on
balsa, but what if your printer does not support that process? I
have another method to share with you that gives the same level
of color and marking application with only a slight weight
penalty.
special decal stock made for computer ink-jet printers. I used the
AT-6 as a trial for this decal process, and I was happy with the
results.
As with any technique new to a builder, I have more to learn
about homemade ink-jet decals, but I can certainly recommend
the process to anyone with a computer and ink-jet printer. My
source for the material is given at the end of the column.
There are several features of this model that are noteworthy.
One is the aileron setup. Keeping the model light is always a
primary goal. Aileron installations tend to add weight. This is
especially true when duplicating scale ailerons.
Fan-Tastic Models designer Jerry Small has overcome that
problem with an effective and lightweight cable linkage
installation. A photo has been provided of the aileron cable
setup. It is a continuous loop of low-stretch material routed to
each aileron with the servo arms in the middle. The system
works nicely.
Power for the AT-6 is the now-common, inexpensive Grand
Fred Stafford prints on tissue and then applies it to the balsa
with clear dope. Text has more details.
Ralph Bradley’s 7.75-inch micro model uses tissue over foam. This process is well
suited to smaller, lightweight models. See text for details.
The AT-6 uses a unique and effective foam motor mount that is
compressed to slide inside the fuselage.
This was going to be the process I used
to do my Jigtime-model reproductions
before I learned I could print directly on
balsa. Fred Stafford of Wayne, Michigan,
uses this printing method. He sent me a
note indicating that he wanted to take
advantage of the Jigtime model plans I had
made available via the Internet, but he was
not able to print directly on balsa. Being
resourceful, Fred came up with an
approach that works great.
The idea was to print the parts on
lightweight tissue paper. Fred first used
lightweight silkspan, but later switched to
tissue. After printing the parts on tissue
they are attached to balsa sheets using
thinned, nonshrinking clear dope such as
Sig Lite-Coat.
The parts are then cut out and
assembled just as they would be if the
color-and-markings had been printed
directly on the balsa. The results look
great, and the weight gain is nominal.
Take a look at the photos to see the
Jigtime Rascal parts Fred created using
this process.
It is surprisingly easy to print on tissue
paper with an ink-jet printer. My process
is to use a piece of printer paper as a
backing sheet. I use a backing sheet equal
in size to the tissue sheet I want to print.
For printers that support banner printing,
you can use sheets 81⁄2 inches wide and a
long length.
To hold the tissue to the backing sheet,
spray some 3M Photo Mount adhesive on
the backing sheet. Stick it to a piece of
cardboard and peel it off four or five times
to eliminate the tack. Then apply the tissue
to the backing sheet and smooth it out.
When printing, I typically use the draft
setting. Once printed, the tissue is easily
removed from the backing sheet. The
backing sheet can be reused many times
without having to apply more spray
adhesive.
Sheet-balsa models in the 18- to 24-
inch-wingspan range make wonderful
small-field flyers. Using computer-printed
tissue as a means of dressing them up
opens many possibilities for creating that
head-turning model.
We are not limited to applying computerprinted
tissue to balsa. Since I have discussed
a foam-based model along with a process for
creating jazzy tissue, I’ll also cover a process
for combining these two modeling materials.
For many good reasons, foam is a popular
material for small-field models. The most
common method of applying color-andmarkings
to foam is paint and decals. It is
also possible to apply colored or ink-jetprinted
tissue to foam to create a lightweight
finish that will add structural strength to the
model.
There are a variety of ways to do this. My
brother Ralph developed one that I think is
especially well suited to smaller, lightweight
models.
When building a small foam-based
model, Ralph needed to add a little
strength to the foam wings. From many
years of Free Flight model building, he
knew that tissue would add considerable
strength to a lightweight structure. His
goal was to find a technique that would
allow tissue to be applied over foam and
would not add much weight. Through a
series of experiments, he developed a
method.
Using white glue to attach brown paper
to foam is a well-established way to build
a strong, rigid structure. White glue can be
slightly heavy, but this method is suitable
for covering larger models.
To adapt the basic process to the use of
tissue, Ralph found that he could isolate
the heavy solids used in white glues and
yellow glues to produce a lightweight
liquid that can attach tissue to foam. The
trick is to mix the white glue with alcohol.
Ralph uses the common drug-store
variety of alcohol that is roughly 30%
water. When mixed, the solids in the glue
form a large blob. Your first reaction is
that the solution is apparently useless. In
fact, the big blob is all the solids in the
glue, and when removed from the mixing
container, a clear solution the consistency
of egg whites remains.
This result seems to be the same
whether using white glue such as Elmer’s
or yellow (aliphatic resin) glue such as
Titebond. When the clear material has
been separated it can be further reduced by
adding more alcohol until the desired
brushing consistency is achieved. The
104 MODEL AVIATION
resulting clear liquid is lightweight and
sticks tissue to foam beautifully.
To apply the tissue, paint a coat of the
clear glue on the foam. Lay the tissue over
the glue. After the wrinkles are smoothed
out and the piece is properly aligned,
lightly burnish it with your finger. Apply a
top coat of the clear glue liquid and set
aside to dry.
That is all there is to this simple and
highly effective process. You can use
colored tissue or tissue you have created
on your ink-jet printer. The presence of
water in the alcohol does not seem to
affect the ink in computer-printed tissue.
The added strength is truly surprising and
the weight gain is minimal even on fairly
small models.
One of Ralph’s trials for the process
was a small 7.75-inch-span micro RC
model as seen in the picture. The wing of
this model is tissue-covered foam using
the described procedure. The ready-tofly
weight of this tiny airplane is 15
grams.
If you are looking for a way to dress
up your next foam-based model that will
also add strength to the structure, you
might want to consider Ralph’s tissueover-
foam process.
Once again, I have reached the end of
this column. As always, please let me
know what you are up to in the world of
small-field flying. MA
Sources:
Fan-Tastic Models
3204 Johnson Rd.
Southlake TX 76092
(817) 379-6468
www.fan-tasticmodels.com
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Fax: (615) 377-6948
www.hobby-lobby.com
Micro-Mark
340 Snyder Ave.
Berkeley Heights NJ 07922
(800) 225-1066
Fax: (908) 665-9383
www.micromark.com
Planned Giving to AMA
You may make gifts to AMA of:
or with a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT)
• Immediate income tax deduction
• Lifetime income for you and your spouse (or other
beneficiary)
• Reduction in estate taxes
• Money for your favorite charities
Interested? Contact AMA Executive Director Joyce Hager at
(765) 287-1256, extension 200.
Cash
Securities
Insurance
Gems
Real Estate
Etc.
