Snorter - 2004/12

December 2004 19
TYPICAL ELECTRIC-POWERED models are fine for flying in
nearby grass fields; however, with small scale wheels, they tend to
flip over on landing. A more suitable model might be a seaplane—
one with a large central float to “skizz” onto the grass when
landing.
I vaguely remembered that an airplane design of one of the
1930s pulp serial characters—Bill Barnes—had a large central
float. I found a three-view of that airplane on the Internet by typing
in the keywords “Bill Barnes.” During many months following, I
drew and built a “Snorter” amphibian model. It has a 42-inch
wingspan, 300 square inches of wing area, weighs just less than a
pound, and the original was powered by a Speed 400 motor with
six cells.
The completed model was test-flown, and it lived up to
expectations with completely successful landings on grass. The
John Hunton holds the Snorter. It was intended to be a
schoolyard flier that wouldn’t nose-over on landing. Ashley
Sullivan photo.
It flies well. Small weight in right wingtip counteracts torque
effects and helps model remain in good trim with power on and
power off. Sullivan photo.
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
by John Hunton
Photos by the author except as noted
Photo by Stew Meyers
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:52 AM Page 19
A 4.1:1 geared Speed 400 motor with 8 x 6 or 9 x 6 propeller
works well. Motor is mounted in balsa crossmembers and
seated in silicone (or epoxy).
Interior is readily accessible with top of fuselage removed. Outer
wing panels are taped in place with automotive trim tape.
Two Hitec servos are nestled between the battery and the cabin.
The receiver is mounted on the cabin floor. Tight but neat!
Simulated carburetor air scoops are formed from 1⁄32 balsa, wetted,
then dried over curved form. This balsa molding is simple and
effective.
Simulated radiator areas were masked, then sprayed with
Testors copper paint. Chart tape was used to outline painted
area.
A six-cell battery pack gives good results with stately, scalelike
flight. A seven-cell pack would give peppier performance.
20 MODEL AVIATION
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:54 AM Page 20
Easy-to-build stabilizer and elevator assembly is typical of
rubber-powered models. Be sure to round off all edges to allow a
smooth covering job.
Placement
of root rib
on inner
wing panels
is critical for
proper
incidence.
Root rib
must be
faired to
fuselage
with small
balsa
scraps.
Wing construction is straightforward. Inner panels are
permanently attached and outer panels slip into sockets.
Considerable washout is built into wings for good stall stability.
December 2004 21
Fin, rudder, and ventral combine to form one of the model’s
focal points. It’s an unusual and character-filled outline!
test flights also showed that the Snorter design was exciting to see
in the air, with its unusual float, extended cabin, and elliptical
wings. It seemed to provide an exciting view from every different
angle.
End of story and onto construction? Nah!
After building a Snorter, I reviewed the Bill Barnes Web page
again, in much more detail. This is an excellent site that is
maintained by a David Dodge. It seems that the Bill Barnes
character and his airplane designs came to life during the 1930s in
some pulp magazines, later appearing in Air Trails magazine.
Then Mr. Barnes drifted off into oblivion in other pulps, to leave
only vivid memories of stories and airplane designs in many
minds.
In the well-organized Bill Barnes Web pages, there is a riveting
history of the many authors and designers, information about
many other characters of the 1930s, and great sketches and threeviews
of the associated airplane designs.
After reading all of the Bill Barnes Web pages, the saga
inspired me and I sent Mr. Dodge photos of my Snorter model. I
also made up a story in 2002 that Paul Cornielusson edited. Mr.
Dodge kindly put this information on his Web site. I think you
will enjoy reading about Bill Barnes at http://home.att.net/~danny
soar5/temp.htm. Following is the 2002 Bill Barnes saga, which I
titled “A Special Mission for the Snorter: Bill Barnes Jr. in
Action.”
“At the request of the President of the United States, Bill
Barnes Jr. agreed to use the fabled airplane named the ‘Snorter’ on
an urgent mission that demanded its unique capabilities. The
original Snorter had been fully maintained in secret storage since
the 1930s, and now it was needed.
“The Snorter could fly very fast and low, barely skimming
waves. With its wooden construction and stealthy reflection
shielded engines, it was nearly invisible to radar. Its two special
12 cylinder diesels had an infrared signature that was undetectable
with look-down detection systems. It could be refueled at sea,
eliminating any telltale aerial refueling.
“The Snorter was the only airplane in the world that could get
in undetected and close enough to the movable man-made island
(now known as Terror Harbor) to pop up and get a quick glimpse
of what the arch villain, Dr. Hisson, was up to now. One
photograph of the island, digitally transmitted back to the
Homeland Defense Agency, would show what the next dastardly
threat to the world might be.
“Bill Barnes Jr. was cruising efficiently at 400 knots now on his
mission. The Snorter was flying just over the whitecaps, its large
Alternate Power Sources and Motors
The normal “cruising” flight time for the Snorter is
roughly seven minutes with the geared Speed 400 can motor
and a six-cell Ni-Cd battery. If you install a three-cell Li-Poly
battery and retain the can motor, flight times will increase to
approximately 10 minutes. If you install a Dymond PJS 300
external rotor motor (or equivalent) and use a three-cell Li-
Poly battery, flight times will increase to roughly 16 minutes.
Changing to the external rotor motor will save
approximately 1 ounce of weight. Changing from the Ni-Cd
to a Li-Poly battery will save an additional 2 ounces. Using
the external rotor motor and Li-Poly battery will save a total
of approximately 3 ounces, which is a significant weight
reduction, and performance will increase proportionately.
However, the Snorter is not an aerobatic model. It is good
enough for me just to see this unusually beautiful and graceful
model in the air and take joy in admiring its complex shapes
as the perspective of the view changes while it passes by. Ben
Tinsley’s 1930s creation is truly ageless. MA
—John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:55 AM Page 21
Although not recommended as a first stick-built project,
construction is typical of most rubber-powered models.
Craftsmanship can be learned!
The model’s framework hung in John’s workshop for many
months. The sculptural qualities are apparent.
All diagonal bracing is added after the final framework has been
completed. Wheels are from a Chubby Lady ARF.
The fuselage is actually fun to build, and it has an artlike quality
when framed up. Take your time and enjoy it!
The major contact area of the “slipper” float is covered with
cross-grain balsa for added strength.
22 MODEL AVIATION
main float wet from ocean spray. When cruising, the Snorter used
only one of its diesels in order to save fuel, but on approaching the
island, Bill Jr. fired up the other engine and its contra-rotating
propeller.
“Airspeed was climbing well past 500 mph now, this speed
achievable because all defensive weaponry had been removed to aid
in stealth and speed. A special ‘look-up’ camera had been installed
in the Snorter for the desired overall shot of the island.
“Of course, the diabolical Dr. Hisson had tracked all satellites
and he always covered up his operations when they passed
overhead. Snorter was going to make its run between satellite passes
to catch the island with everything exposed for the camera’s eye.
“The island grew large in the windshield and it was time for Bill
Jr. and the Snorter to pop up. When Bill Jr. pulled on the yoke, the
G-meter read 9. He slammed the stick to the right to start the roll
and was immediately inverted over the island. The upward-looking
camera, which was now facing downward, was triggered.
“Bill rolled to level again just past the island, at just a few feet
Type: RC Electric
Wingspan: 42 inches
Power: Geared Speed 400 on six or seven cells
Flying weight: 15.5 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and modeling dope
See pages 176 and 177
for Snorter plans.
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:48 AM Page 22
24 MODEL AVIATION
over the rolling waves. The invaluable photograph of Dr. Hisson’s
island was automatically digitized and transmitted home.
“During the quick flash of vision that Bill Jr. had over the island,
he realized that the mission had been a success. All manner and
kinds of hardware had been exposed on the tarmac. But one thing
caught his eye. In that quick glimpse, he had seen an airplane sitting
on the tarmac, propellers turning. It was pointed in the direction that
Bill Jr. was going. If this was the Hisson Special, it would be the
only propeller-driven airplane that could catch the Snorter.
“The Hisson had originally been designed by Bill Jr.’s father as a
follow-on to the Snorter, and with design input from Bill Winter, the
Hisson was even faster. But the plans had been stolen. Now Bill Jr.
knew who had stolen them: the sinister Dr. Hisson.
“As Bill Barnes Jr. sped from the island in the Snorter, he
glanced behind briefly. A chill ran down his spine. There was the
Hisson Special, in firing position, directly behind him. His mind
raced, but what could he do?
“To be continued ... ”
CONSTRUCTION
Looking at the Snorter’s framework photos, building one might
Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:50 AM Page 24
December 2004 27
seem daunting. However, it is similar in construction to many
rubber-powered model designs and is really not that difficult to
build. You can take pride in doing it yourself with this model, and
the result is rewarding—especially when it comes to the fuselage.
This airplane’s shapes have good sculptural content. From the time
you get the fuselage on wheels, you will have something nice to
look at.
Looking at the photo of the frame, you will see many diagonals
in it that are not shown on the plans. These temporary members are
inserted to keep the frame stiff during the sanding-and-shaping
process. Use them on any “floppy” part, and remove them if you
want before covering. Be sure to use these diagonals on the wings
and empennage to help when sanding.
Consider weight when you are selecting balsa; keep it light. The
only parts that require firm wood are the 1⁄4 x 1⁄8 balsa fuselage
longerons and the main wing spars.
Begin construction by cutting parts with a #11 X-Acto blade. A
secret to keeping the blade sharp for long periods is to be conscious
of the substrate over which the pieces are being cut. I use foamcore
board, which is available in retail department stores.
The fuselage and main float are built together—one side first,
and then the second side onto the first side. Soak the longerons in
water where they curve or split and glue before installing. Pin the
top and bottom fuselage longerons in place, running uncut through
the cabin area. Install the formers to the longerons, being careful to
place them vertically. (A small triangle will help.) Install the side
longerons, noting that the fuselage top is built with two 1⁄4 x 1⁄8
longerons at the parting joint. This joint will be separated later.
Install all stringers. Take up the first completed side and install
the opposite formers and longerons, and then add the stringers.
Install small 1⁄16 square crosspieces across any former that might
need additional bracing. Sheet the bottom of the “slipper” float.
A critical part of fuselage assembly is getting the wing root ribs
installed accurately. Notice the large angle of positive wing
incidence at the root. Do it that way because Bill Barnes knew
what he was doing. Fair in the root rib with scraps of balsa and
sand smooth. All diagonal braces shown in the skeletal photos can
be added now.
The remaining work will seem simpler with the fuselage framed
up, but you can be extremely proud of what you have built so far,
and it looks great. Be patient when sanding because having a
smooth frame will produce a smooth finished surface. Use a small
block with sandpaper glued onto it to even out the frame. Some
modelers will want to undercut the formers between stringers, but I
left all formers in the fully rounded shape.
I built the prototype without active ailerons, and it flies fine
with just rudder and elevator. The wings are designed to be
detached at the strut attach point. Decide now if you want ailerons
or not. If you do, you may want to attach the wings permanently.
Pin the lower spars over the plans. Slip the ribs over the spar
and glue them into place. Install the upper spar. It may help to cut
the upper spars for the inner wing panels from sheet because of the
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Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:52 AM Page 27
December 2004 29
curvature. Dry-fit the LEs and TEs,
remove them, and do most of the rough
shaping on them. Glue these parts into
place. After the wing assemblies are dry,
sand them lightly with a large block.
Assemble the tail-piece outlines over
the plans, installing the spars (harder
balsa) and then the crosspieces. After the
parts have dried, block-sand them smooth
and flat in place on the board. Putting a
radius on the edges of the tail surfaces
seems to be an onerous chore. Make a
small block with the proper inside radius,
and work it around the edges to provide a
perfectly round edge. The temporary
diagonals help a great deal here.
The wing struts are made from 1⁄8 x 1⁄4
firm balsa. Shape the struts to a
streamlined cross-section, and then add
two threads on each side, bedded into
glue, for reinforcement.
Covering: After trying several covering
methods on the prototype fuselage,
including Japanese tissue, heat-shrink
materials, etc., I settled on lightweight silk
applied with Sig butyrate dope for
working around this aircraft’s many
curves. Silk is an incredibly flexible
material.
Predope the entire frame, and lightly
resand it. Cut a piece of silk oversize,
sprinkle it with water, redope the area, and
pin the silk into place, making sure that
any wrinkles around the edges are
minimal. If the silk on a rib, former, or
stringer will be in tension, use model
cement to adhere it so it will not pull loose
later. If wrinkles appear, use your
covering iron to remove them.
Use 50-50 thinned dope to seal the silk,
and then apply two more coats of butyrate
clear. I brushed on a thinned coat of silver
dope, lightly sanded the frame, and then
sprayed on the final coat, keeping it light.
When using butyrate dope, small wrinkles
will disappear with time or they can be
heat-gunned out. I covered all flying
surfaces, including the large subrudder,
with CoverLite applied with the Sig
adhesive.
Final Assembly: Presuming that you kept
the flying surfaces relatively flat during
covering, now is the time to warp them.
Slip the inner wing panels into the
fuselage. The wing root rib at the fuselage
is at approximately 4° positive incidence.
Apply heat and warp the panels so that
they are at roughly 2° at the end of the
inner wing panel. Sight from the nose to
see that both panels are equally bent.
Install the wing struts to stabilize the
inner panels. Slip the outer wing panels
into place, and warp the tips so that the
flat bottoms are even with the fuselage
centerline or at zero incidence. (The
incidence reference here is to the flat
bottom—not the true airfoil chord line.)
Install the empennage with reference to
the wing for accurate alignment. Install
the horns, hinges, sheaths, servos, and
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lightweight pushrods. Control-surface
movement should be at approximately 20°
from neutral.
Install the motor with propeller and the
receiver. This leaves the battery pack—the
heaviest item—remaining to finalize the
balance point. Make sure that the model
balances where indicated, even if you have
to add ballast front or rear.
I added all trim to the prototype with a
felt-tipped pen for light weight. I suggest
that you do not fly the model off of water
or use the tip floats.
Flying: I used a Speed 400 motor with a
4:1 gearbox and an APC 8 x 6 propeller in
the prototype. With the concept that this
model should fly realistically, I used a sixcell
battery. Of course, using a seventh
cell would add to the available power.
The prototype has been upgraded with
an external-rotor motor (outrunner type)
and Li-Poly cells, still driving the same
propeller. Flight time is doubled and
performance is increased nicely. The fullscale
Bill Barnes Snorter was to be
powered with two 3,000-horsepower
Barnes diesels, and it had contrarotating
propellers.
Since the Snorter presents an unusual
countenance in the air, keep it close in
until you get used to its shapes, and you
will find that it is a fine model to fly. Keep
speed up after hand launching until it
achieves plenty of altitude. Keep a little
power on for improved rudder authority on
landing.
Observe how the model tracks during a
straight flyby. If it yaws one way or the
other, use the semifixed ailerons to
counter this effect. A bit of right aileron
will cause the model to yaw to the left.
The opposite is true for left aileron.
I hope you enjoy the Snorter and its
heritage as much as I have. This model
will mean a lot to many people at the
flying field and will jog many memories.
Don’t tell them right off what it is; let
them try to guess for a while. MA
John Hunton
9154 Rixeyville Rd.
Rixeyville VA 22737
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December 2004 19
TYPICAL ELECTRIC-POWERED models are fine for flying in
nearby grass fields; however, with small scale wheels, they tend to
flip over on landing. A more suitable model might be a seaplane—
one with a large central float to “skizz” onto the grass when
landing.
I vaguely remembered that an airplane design of one of the
1930s pulp serial characters—Bill Barnes—had a large central
float. I found a three-view of that airplane on the Internet by typing
in the keywords “Bill Barnes.” During many months following, I
drew and built a “Snorter” amphibian model. It has a 42-inch
wingspan, 300 square inches of wing area, weighs just less than a
pound, and the original was powered by a Speed 400 motor with
six cells.
The completed model was test-flown, and it lived up to
expectations with completely successful landings on grass. The
John Hunton holds the Snorter. It was intended to be a
schoolyard flier that wouldn’t nose-over on landing. Ashley
Sullivan photo.
It flies well. Small weight in right wingtip counteracts torque
effects and helps model remain in good trim with power on and
power off. Sullivan photo.
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
by John Hunton
Photos by the author except as noted
Photo by Stew Meyers
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:52 AM Page 19
A 4.1:1 geared Speed 400 motor with 8 x 6 or 9 x 6 propeller
works well. Motor is mounted in balsa crossmembers and
seated in silicone (or epoxy).
Interior is readily accessible with top of fuselage removed. Outer
wing panels are taped in place with automotive trim tape.
Two Hitec servos are nestled between the battery and the cabin.
The receiver is mounted on the cabin floor. Tight but neat!
Simulated carburetor air scoops are formed from 1⁄32 balsa, wetted,
then dried over curved form. This balsa molding is simple and
effective.
Simulated radiator areas were masked, then sprayed with
Testors copper paint. Chart tape was used to outline painted
area.
A six-cell battery pack gives good results with stately, scalelike
flight. A seven-cell pack would give peppier performance.
20 MODEL AVIATION
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:54 AM Page 20
Easy-to-build stabilizer and elevator assembly is typical of
rubber-powered models. Be sure to round off all edges to allow a
smooth covering job.
Placement
of root rib
on inner
wing panels
is critical for
proper
incidence.
Root rib
must be
faired to
fuselage
with small
balsa
scraps.
Wing construction is straightforward. Inner panels are
permanently attached and outer panels slip into sockets.
Considerable washout is built into wings for good stall stability.
December 2004 21
Fin, rudder, and ventral combine to form one of the model’s
focal points. It’s an unusual and character-filled outline!
test flights also showed that the Snorter design was exciting to see
in the air, with its unusual float, extended cabin, and elliptical
wings. It seemed to provide an exciting view from every different
angle.
End of story and onto construction? Nah!
After building a Snorter, I reviewed the Bill Barnes Web page
again, in much more detail. This is an excellent site that is
maintained by a David Dodge. It seems that the Bill Barnes
character and his airplane designs came to life during the 1930s in
some pulp magazines, later appearing in Air Trails magazine.
Then Mr. Barnes drifted off into oblivion in other pulps, to leave
only vivid memories of stories and airplane designs in many
minds.
In the well-organized Bill Barnes Web pages, there is a riveting
history of the many authors and designers, information about
many other characters of the 1930s, and great sketches and threeviews
of the associated airplane designs.
After reading all of the Bill Barnes Web pages, the saga
inspired me and I sent Mr. Dodge photos of my Snorter model. I
also made up a story in 2002 that Paul Cornielusson edited. Mr.
Dodge kindly put this information on his Web site. I think you
will enjoy reading about Bill Barnes at http://home.att.net/~danny
soar5/temp.htm. Following is the 2002 Bill Barnes saga, which I
titled “A Special Mission for the Snorter: Bill Barnes Jr. in
Action.”
“At the request of the President of the United States, Bill
Barnes Jr. agreed to use the fabled airplane named the ‘Snorter’ on
an urgent mission that demanded its unique capabilities. The
original Snorter had been fully maintained in secret storage since
the 1930s, and now it was needed.
“The Snorter could fly very fast and low, barely skimming
waves. With its wooden construction and stealthy reflection
shielded engines, it was nearly invisible to radar. Its two special
12 cylinder diesels had an infrared signature that was undetectable
with look-down detection systems. It could be refueled at sea,
eliminating any telltale aerial refueling.
“The Snorter was the only airplane in the world that could get
in undetected and close enough to the movable man-made island
(now known as Terror Harbor) to pop up and get a quick glimpse
of what the arch villain, Dr. Hisson, was up to now. One
photograph of the island, digitally transmitted back to the
Homeland Defense Agency, would show what the next dastardly
threat to the world might be.
“Bill Barnes Jr. was cruising efficiently at 400 knots now on his
mission. The Snorter was flying just over the whitecaps, its large
Alternate Power Sources and Motors
The normal “cruising” flight time for the Snorter is
roughly seven minutes with the geared Speed 400 can motor
and a six-cell Ni-Cd battery. If you install a three-cell Li-Poly
battery and retain the can motor, flight times will increase to
approximately 10 minutes. If you install a Dymond PJS 300
external rotor motor (or equivalent) and use a three-cell Li-
Poly battery, flight times will increase to roughly 16 minutes.
Changing to the external rotor motor will save
approximately 1 ounce of weight. Changing from the Ni-Cd
to a Li-Poly battery will save an additional 2 ounces. Using
the external rotor motor and Li-Poly battery will save a total
of approximately 3 ounces, which is a significant weight
reduction, and performance will increase proportionately.
However, the Snorter is not an aerobatic model. It is good
enough for me just to see this unusually beautiful and graceful
model in the air and take joy in admiring its complex shapes
as the perspective of the view changes while it passes by. Ben
Tinsley’s 1930s creation is truly ageless. MA
—John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:55 AM Page 21
Although not recommended as a first stick-built project,
construction is typical of most rubber-powered models.
Craftsmanship can be learned!
The model’s framework hung in John’s workshop for many
months. The sculptural qualities are apparent.
All diagonal bracing is added after the final framework has been
completed. Wheels are from a Chubby Lady ARF.
The fuselage is actually fun to build, and it has an artlike quality
when framed up. Take your time and enjoy it!
The major contact area of the “slipper” float is covered with
cross-grain balsa for added strength.
22 MODEL AVIATION
main float wet from ocean spray. When cruising, the Snorter used
only one of its diesels in order to save fuel, but on approaching the
island, Bill Jr. fired up the other engine and its contra-rotating
propeller.
“Airspeed was climbing well past 500 mph now, this speed
achievable because all defensive weaponry had been removed to aid
in stealth and speed. A special ‘look-up’ camera had been installed
in the Snorter for the desired overall shot of the island.
“Of course, the diabolical Dr. Hisson had tracked all satellites
and he always covered up his operations when they passed
overhead. Snorter was going to make its run between satellite passes
to catch the island with everything exposed for the camera’s eye.
“The island grew large in the windshield and it was time for Bill
Jr. and the Snorter to pop up. When Bill Jr. pulled on the yoke, the
G-meter read 9. He slammed the stick to the right to start the roll
and was immediately inverted over the island. The upward-looking
camera, which was now facing downward, was triggered.
“Bill rolled to level again just past the island, at just a few feet
Type: RC Electric
Wingspan: 42 inches
Power: Geared Speed 400 on six or seven cells
Flying weight: 15.5 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and modeling dope
See pages 176 and 177
for Snorter plans.
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:48 AM Page 22
24 MODEL AVIATION
over the rolling waves. The invaluable photograph of Dr. Hisson’s
island was automatically digitized and transmitted home.
“During the quick flash of vision that Bill Jr. had over the island,
he realized that the mission had been a success. All manner and
kinds of hardware had been exposed on the tarmac. But one thing
caught his eye. In that quick glimpse, he had seen an airplane sitting
on the tarmac, propellers turning. It was pointed in the direction that
Bill Jr. was going. If this was the Hisson Special, it would be the
only propeller-driven airplane that could catch the Snorter.
“The Hisson had originally been designed by Bill Jr.’s father as a
follow-on to the Snorter, and with design input from Bill Winter, the
Hisson was even faster. But the plans had been stolen. Now Bill Jr.
knew who had stolen them: the sinister Dr. Hisson.
“As Bill Barnes Jr. sped from the island in the Snorter, he
glanced behind briefly. A chill ran down his spine. There was the
Hisson Special, in firing position, directly behind him. His mind
raced, but what could he do?
“To be continued ... ”
CONSTRUCTION
Looking at the Snorter’s framework photos, building one might
Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:50 AM Page 24
December 2004 27
seem daunting. However, it is similar in construction to many
rubber-powered model designs and is really not that difficult to
build. You can take pride in doing it yourself with this model, and
the result is rewarding—especially when it comes to the fuselage.
This airplane’s shapes have good sculptural content. From the time
you get the fuselage on wheels, you will have something nice to
look at.
Looking at the photo of the frame, you will see many diagonals
in it that are not shown on the plans. These temporary members are
inserted to keep the frame stiff during the sanding-and-shaping
process. Use them on any “floppy” part, and remove them if you
want before covering. Be sure to use these diagonals on the wings
and empennage to help when sanding.
Consider weight when you are selecting balsa; keep it light. The
only parts that require firm wood are the 1⁄4 x 1⁄8 balsa fuselage
longerons and the main wing spars.
Begin construction by cutting parts with a #11 X-Acto blade. A
secret to keeping the blade sharp for long periods is to be conscious
of the substrate over which the pieces are being cut. I use foamcore
board, which is available in retail department stores.
The fuselage and main float are built together—one side first,
and then the second side onto the first side. Soak the longerons in
water where they curve or split and glue before installing. Pin the
top and bottom fuselage longerons in place, running uncut through
the cabin area. Install the formers to the longerons, being careful to
place them vertically. (A small triangle will help.) Install the side
longerons, noting that the fuselage top is built with two 1⁄4 x 1⁄8
longerons at the parting joint. This joint will be separated later.
Install all stringers. Take up the first completed side and install
the opposite formers and longerons, and then add the stringers.
Install small 1⁄16 square crosspieces across any former that might
need additional bracing. Sheet the bottom of the “slipper” float.
A critical part of fuselage assembly is getting the wing root ribs
installed accurately. Notice the large angle of positive wing
incidence at the root. Do it that way because Bill Barnes knew
what he was doing. Fair in the root rib with scraps of balsa and
sand smooth. All diagonal braces shown in the skeletal photos can
be added now.
The remaining work will seem simpler with the fuselage framed
up, but you can be extremely proud of what you have built so far,
and it looks great. Be patient when sanding because having a
smooth frame will produce a smooth finished surface. Use a small
block with sandpaper glued onto it to even out the frame. Some
modelers will want to undercut the formers between stringers, but I
left all formers in the fully rounded shape.
I built the prototype without active ailerons, and it flies fine
with just rudder and elevator. The wings are designed to be
detached at the strut attach point. Decide now if you want ailerons
or not. If you do, you may want to attach the wings permanently.
Pin the lower spars over the plans. Slip the ribs over the spar
and glue them into place. Install the upper spar. It may help to cut
the upper spars for the inner wing panels from sheet because of the
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Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:52 AM Page 27
December 2004 29
curvature. Dry-fit the LEs and TEs,
remove them, and do most of the rough
shaping on them. Glue these parts into
place. After the wing assemblies are dry,
sand them lightly with a large block.
Assemble the tail-piece outlines over
the plans, installing the spars (harder
balsa) and then the crosspieces. After the
parts have dried, block-sand them smooth
and flat in place on the board. Putting a
radius on the edges of the tail surfaces
seems to be an onerous chore. Make a
small block with the proper inside radius,
and work it around the edges to provide a
perfectly round edge. The temporary
diagonals help a great deal here.
The wing struts are made from 1⁄8 x 1⁄4
firm balsa. Shape the struts to a
streamlined cross-section, and then add
two threads on each side, bedded into
glue, for reinforcement.
Covering: After trying several covering
methods on the prototype fuselage,
including Japanese tissue, heat-shrink
materials, etc., I settled on lightweight silk
applied with Sig butyrate dope for
working around this aircraft’s many
curves. Silk is an incredibly flexible
material.
Predope the entire frame, and lightly
resand it. Cut a piece of silk oversize,
sprinkle it with water, redope the area, and
pin the silk into place, making sure that
any wrinkles around the edges are
minimal. If the silk on a rib, former, or
stringer will be in tension, use model
cement to adhere it so it will not pull loose
later. If wrinkles appear, use your
covering iron to remove them.
Use 50-50 thinned dope to seal the silk,
and then apply two more coats of butyrate
clear. I brushed on a thinned coat of silver
dope, lightly sanded the frame, and then
sprayed on the final coat, keeping it light.
When using butyrate dope, small wrinkles
will disappear with time or they can be
heat-gunned out. I covered all flying
surfaces, including the large subrudder,
with CoverLite applied with the Sig
adhesive.
Final Assembly: Presuming that you kept
the flying surfaces relatively flat during
covering, now is the time to warp them.
Slip the inner wing panels into the
fuselage. The wing root rib at the fuselage
is at approximately 4° positive incidence.
Apply heat and warp the panels so that
they are at roughly 2° at the end of the
inner wing panel. Sight from the nose to
see that both panels are equally bent.
Install the wing struts to stabilize the
inner panels. Slip the outer wing panels
into place, and warp the tips so that the
flat bottoms are even with the fuselage
centerline or at zero incidence. (The
incidence reference here is to the flat
bottom—not the true airfoil chord line.)
Install the empennage with reference to
the wing for accurate alignment. Install
the horns, hinges, sheaths, servos, and
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lightweight pushrods. Control-surface
movement should be at approximately 20°
from neutral.
Install the motor with propeller and the
receiver. This leaves the battery pack—the
heaviest item—remaining to finalize the
balance point. Make sure that the model
balances where indicated, even if you have
to add ballast front or rear.
I added all trim to the prototype with a
felt-tipped pen for light weight. I suggest
that you do not fly the model off of water
or use the tip floats.
Flying: I used a Speed 400 motor with a
4:1 gearbox and an APC 8 x 6 propeller in
the prototype. With the concept that this
model should fly realistically, I used a sixcell
battery. Of course, using a seventh
cell would add to the available power.
The prototype has been upgraded with
an external-rotor motor (outrunner type)
and Li-Poly cells, still driving the same
propeller. Flight time is doubled and
performance is increased nicely. The fullscale
Bill Barnes Snorter was to be
powered with two 3,000-horsepower
Barnes diesels, and it had contrarotating
propellers.
Since the Snorter presents an unusual
countenance in the air, keep it close in
until you get used to its shapes, and you
will find that it is a fine model to fly. Keep
speed up after hand launching until it
achieves plenty of altitude. Keep a little
power on for improved rudder authority on
landing.
Observe how the model tracks during a
straight flyby. If it yaws one way or the
other, use the semifixed ailerons to
counter this effect. A bit of right aileron
will cause the model to yaw to the left.
The opposite is true for left aileron.
I hope you enjoy the Snorter and its
heritage as much as I have. This model
will mean a lot to many people at the
flying field and will jog many memories.
Don’t tell them right off what it is; let
them try to guess for a while. MA
John Hunton
9154 Rixeyville Rd.
Rixeyville VA 22737
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December 2004 19
TYPICAL ELECTRIC-POWERED models are fine for flying in
nearby grass fields; however, with small scale wheels, they tend to
flip over on landing. A more suitable model might be a seaplane—
one with a large central float to “skizz” onto the grass when
landing.
I vaguely remembered that an airplane design of one of the
1930s pulp serial characters—Bill Barnes—had a large central
float. I found a three-view of that airplane on the Internet by typing
in the keywords “Bill Barnes.” During many months following, I
drew and built a “Snorter” amphibian model. It has a 42-inch
wingspan, 300 square inches of wing area, weighs just less than a
pound, and the original was powered by a Speed 400 motor with
six cells.
The completed model was test-flown, and it lived up to
expectations with completely successful landings on grass. The
John Hunton holds the Snorter. It was intended to be a
schoolyard flier that wouldn’t nose-over on landing. Ashley
Sullivan photo.
It flies well. Small weight in right wingtip counteracts torque
effects and helps model remain in good trim with power on and
power off. Sullivan photo.
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
by John Hunton
Photos by the author except as noted
Photo by Stew Meyers
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:52 AM Page 19
A 4.1:1 geared Speed 400 motor with 8 x 6 or 9 x 6 propeller
works well. Motor is mounted in balsa crossmembers and
seated in silicone (or epoxy).
Interior is readily accessible with top of fuselage removed. Outer
wing panels are taped in place with automotive trim tape.
Two Hitec servos are nestled between the battery and the cabin.
The receiver is mounted on the cabin floor. Tight but neat!
Simulated carburetor air scoops are formed from 1⁄32 balsa, wetted,
then dried over curved form. This balsa molding is simple and
effective.
Simulated radiator areas were masked, then sprayed with
Testors copper paint. Chart tape was used to outline painted
area.
A six-cell battery pack gives good results with stately, scalelike
flight. A seven-cell pack would give peppier performance.
20 MODEL AVIATION
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:54 AM Page 20
Easy-to-build stabilizer and elevator assembly is typical of
rubber-powered models. Be sure to round off all edges to allow a
smooth covering job.
Placement
of root rib
on inner
wing panels
is critical for
proper
incidence.
Root rib
must be
faired to
fuselage
with small
balsa
scraps.
Wing construction is straightforward. Inner panels are
permanently attached and outer panels slip into sockets.
Considerable washout is built into wings for good stall stability.
December 2004 21
Fin, rudder, and ventral combine to form one of the model’s
focal points. It’s an unusual and character-filled outline!
test flights also showed that the Snorter design was exciting to see
in the air, with its unusual float, extended cabin, and elliptical
wings. It seemed to provide an exciting view from every different
angle.
End of story and onto construction? Nah!
After building a Snorter, I reviewed the Bill Barnes Web page
again, in much more detail. This is an excellent site that is
maintained by a David Dodge. It seems that the Bill Barnes
character and his airplane designs came to life during the 1930s in
some pulp magazines, later appearing in Air Trails magazine.
Then Mr. Barnes drifted off into oblivion in other pulps, to leave
only vivid memories of stories and airplane designs in many
minds.
In the well-organized Bill Barnes Web pages, there is a riveting
history of the many authors and designers, information about
many other characters of the 1930s, and great sketches and threeviews
of the associated airplane designs.
After reading all of the Bill Barnes Web pages, the saga
inspired me and I sent Mr. Dodge photos of my Snorter model. I
also made up a story in 2002 that Paul Cornielusson edited. Mr.
Dodge kindly put this information on his Web site. I think you
will enjoy reading about Bill Barnes at http://home.att.net/~danny
soar5/temp.htm. Following is the 2002 Bill Barnes saga, which I
titled “A Special Mission for the Snorter: Bill Barnes Jr. in
Action.”
“At the request of the President of the United States, Bill
Barnes Jr. agreed to use the fabled airplane named the ‘Snorter’ on
an urgent mission that demanded its unique capabilities. The
original Snorter had been fully maintained in secret storage since
the 1930s, and now it was needed.
“The Snorter could fly very fast and low, barely skimming
waves. With its wooden construction and stealthy reflection
shielded engines, it was nearly invisible to radar. Its two special
12 cylinder diesels had an infrared signature that was undetectable
with look-down detection systems. It could be refueled at sea,
eliminating any telltale aerial refueling.
“The Snorter was the only airplane in the world that could get
in undetected and close enough to the movable man-made island
(now known as Terror Harbor) to pop up and get a quick glimpse
of what the arch villain, Dr. Hisson, was up to now. One
photograph of the island, digitally transmitted back to the
Homeland Defense Agency, would show what the next dastardly
threat to the world might be.
“Bill Barnes Jr. was cruising efficiently at 400 knots now on his
mission. The Snorter was flying just over the whitecaps, its large
Alternate Power Sources and Motors
The normal “cruising” flight time for the Snorter is
roughly seven minutes with the geared Speed 400 can motor
and a six-cell Ni-Cd battery. If you install a three-cell Li-Poly
battery and retain the can motor, flight times will increase to
approximately 10 minutes. If you install a Dymond PJS 300
external rotor motor (or equivalent) and use a three-cell Li-
Poly battery, flight times will increase to roughly 16 minutes.
Changing to the external rotor motor will save
approximately 1 ounce of weight. Changing from the Ni-Cd
to a Li-Poly battery will save an additional 2 ounces. Using
the external rotor motor and Li-Poly battery will save a total
of approximately 3 ounces, which is a significant weight
reduction, and performance will increase proportionately.
However, the Snorter is not an aerobatic model. It is good
enough for me just to see this unusually beautiful and graceful
model in the air and take joy in admiring its complex shapes
as the perspective of the view changes while it passes by. Ben
Tinsley’s 1930s creation is truly ageless. MA
—John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:55 AM Page 21
Although not recommended as a first stick-built project,
construction is typical of most rubber-powered models.
Craftsmanship can be learned!
The model’s framework hung in John’s workshop for many
months. The sculptural qualities are apparent.
All diagonal bracing is added after the final framework has been
completed. Wheels are from a Chubby Lady ARF.
The fuselage is actually fun to build, and it has an artlike quality
when framed up. Take your time and enjoy it!
The major contact area of the “slipper” float is covered with
cross-grain balsa for added strength.
22 MODEL AVIATION
main float wet from ocean spray. When cruising, the Snorter used
only one of its diesels in order to save fuel, but on approaching the
island, Bill Jr. fired up the other engine and its contra-rotating
propeller.
“Airspeed was climbing well past 500 mph now, this speed
achievable because all defensive weaponry had been removed to aid
in stealth and speed. A special ‘look-up’ camera had been installed
in the Snorter for the desired overall shot of the island.
“Of course, the diabolical Dr. Hisson had tracked all satellites
and he always covered up his operations when they passed
overhead. Snorter was going to make its run between satellite passes
to catch the island with everything exposed for the camera’s eye.
“The island grew large in the windshield and it was time for Bill
Jr. and the Snorter to pop up. When Bill Jr. pulled on the yoke, the
G-meter read 9. He slammed the stick to the right to start the roll
and was immediately inverted over the island. The upward-looking
camera, which was now facing downward, was triggered.
“Bill rolled to level again just past the island, at just a few feet
Type: RC Electric
Wingspan: 42 inches
Power: Geared Speed 400 on six or seven cells
Flying weight: 15.5 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and modeling dope
See pages 176 and 177
for Snorter plans.
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:48 AM Page 22
24 MODEL AVIATION
over the rolling waves. The invaluable photograph of Dr. Hisson’s
island was automatically digitized and transmitted home.
“During the quick flash of vision that Bill Jr. had over the island,
he realized that the mission had been a success. All manner and
kinds of hardware had been exposed on the tarmac. But one thing
caught his eye. In that quick glimpse, he had seen an airplane sitting
on the tarmac, propellers turning. It was pointed in the direction that
Bill Jr. was going. If this was the Hisson Special, it would be the
only propeller-driven airplane that could catch the Snorter.
“The Hisson had originally been designed by Bill Jr.’s father as a
follow-on to the Snorter, and with design input from Bill Winter, the
Hisson was even faster. But the plans had been stolen. Now Bill Jr.
knew who had stolen them: the sinister Dr. Hisson.
“As Bill Barnes Jr. sped from the island in the Snorter, he
glanced behind briefly. A chill ran down his spine. There was the
Hisson Special, in firing position, directly behind him. His mind
raced, but what could he do?
“To be continued ... ”
CONSTRUCTION
Looking at the Snorter’s framework photos, building one might
Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:50 AM Page 24
December 2004 27
seem daunting. However, it is similar in construction to many
rubber-powered model designs and is really not that difficult to
build. You can take pride in doing it yourself with this model, and
the result is rewarding—especially when it comes to the fuselage.
This airplane’s shapes have good sculptural content. From the time
you get the fuselage on wheels, you will have something nice to
look at.
Looking at the photo of the frame, you will see many diagonals
in it that are not shown on the plans. These temporary members are
inserted to keep the frame stiff during the sanding-and-shaping
process. Use them on any “floppy” part, and remove them if you
want before covering. Be sure to use these diagonals on the wings
and empennage to help when sanding.
Consider weight when you are selecting balsa; keep it light. The
only parts that require firm wood are the 1⁄4 x 1⁄8 balsa fuselage
longerons and the main wing spars.
Begin construction by cutting parts with a #11 X-Acto blade. A
secret to keeping the blade sharp for long periods is to be conscious
of the substrate over which the pieces are being cut. I use foamcore
board, which is available in retail department stores.
The fuselage and main float are built together—one side first,
and then the second side onto the first side. Soak the longerons in
water where they curve or split and glue before installing. Pin the
top and bottom fuselage longerons in place, running uncut through
the cabin area. Install the formers to the longerons, being careful to
place them vertically. (A small triangle will help.) Install the side
longerons, noting that the fuselage top is built with two 1⁄4 x 1⁄8
longerons at the parting joint. This joint will be separated later.
Install all stringers. Take up the first completed side and install
the opposite formers and longerons, and then add the stringers.
Install small 1⁄16 square crosspieces across any former that might
need additional bracing. Sheet the bottom of the “slipper” float.
A critical part of fuselage assembly is getting the wing root ribs
installed accurately. Notice the large angle of positive wing
incidence at the root. Do it that way because Bill Barnes knew
what he was doing. Fair in the root rib with scraps of balsa and
sand smooth. All diagonal braces shown in the skeletal photos can
be added now.
The remaining work will seem simpler with the fuselage framed
up, but you can be extremely proud of what you have built so far,
and it looks great. Be patient when sanding because having a
smooth frame will produce a smooth finished surface. Use a small
block with sandpaper glued onto it to even out the frame. Some
modelers will want to undercut the formers between stringers, but I
left all formers in the fully rounded shape.
I built the prototype without active ailerons, and it flies fine
with just rudder and elevator. The wings are designed to be
detached at the strut attach point. Decide now if you want ailerons
or not. If you do, you may want to attach the wings permanently.
Pin the lower spars over the plans. Slip the ribs over the spar
and glue them into place. Install the upper spar. It may help to cut
the upper spars for the inner wing panels from sheet because of the
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Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:52 AM Page 27
December 2004 29
curvature. Dry-fit the LEs and TEs,
remove them, and do most of the rough
shaping on them. Glue these parts into
place. After the wing assemblies are dry,
sand them lightly with a large block.
Assemble the tail-piece outlines over
the plans, installing the spars (harder
balsa) and then the crosspieces. After the
parts have dried, block-sand them smooth
and flat in place on the board. Putting a
radius on the edges of the tail surfaces
seems to be an onerous chore. Make a
small block with the proper inside radius,
and work it around the edges to provide a
perfectly round edge. The temporary
diagonals help a great deal here.
The wing struts are made from 1⁄8 x 1⁄4
firm balsa. Shape the struts to a
streamlined cross-section, and then add
two threads on each side, bedded into
glue, for reinforcement.
Covering: After trying several covering
methods on the prototype fuselage,
including Japanese tissue, heat-shrink
materials, etc., I settled on lightweight silk
applied with Sig butyrate dope for
working around this aircraft’s many
curves. Silk is an incredibly flexible
material.
Predope the entire frame, and lightly
resand it. Cut a piece of silk oversize,
sprinkle it with water, redope the area, and
pin the silk into place, making sure that
any wrinkles around the edges are
minimal. If the silk on a rib, former, or
stringer will be in tension, use model
cement to adhere it so it will not pull loose
later. If wrinkles appear, use your
covering iron to remove them.
Use 50-50 thinned dope to seal the silk,
and then apply two more coats of butyrate
clear. I brushed on a thinned coat of silver
dope, lightly sanded the frame, and then
sprayed on the final coat, keeping it light.
When using butyrate dope, small wrinkles
will disappear with time or they can be
heat-gunned out. I covered all flying
surfaces, including the large subrudder,
with CoverLite applied with the Sig
adhesive.
Final Assembly: Presuming that you kept
the flying surfaces relatively flat during
covering, now is the time to warp them.
Slip the inner wing panels into the
fuselage. The wing root rib at the fuselage
is at approximately 4° positive incidence.
Apply heat and warp the panels so that
they are at roughly 2° at the end of the
inner wing panel. Sight from the nose to
see that both panels are equally bent.
Install the wing struts to stabilize the
inner panels. Slip the outer wing panels
into place, and warp the tips so that the
flat bottoms are even with the fuselage
centerline or at zero incidence. (The
incidence reference here is to the flat
bottom—not the true airfoil chord line.)
Install the empennage with reference to
the wing for accurate alignment. Install
the horns, hinges, sheaths, servos, and
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lightweight pushrods. Control-surface
movement should be at approximately 20°
from neutral.
Install the motor with propeller and the
receiver. This leaves the battery pack—the
heaviest item—remaining to finalize the
balance point. Make sure that the model
balances where indicated, even if you have
to add ballast front or rear.
I added all trim to the prototype with a
felt-tipped pen for light weight. I suggest
that you do not fly the model off of water
or use the tip floats.
Flying: I used a Speed 400 motor with a
4:1 gearbox and an APC 8 x 6 propeller in
the prototype. With the concept that this
model should fly realistically, I used a sixcell
battery. Of course, using a seventh
cell would add to the available power.
The prototype has been upgraded with
an external-rotor motor (outrunner type)
and Li-Poly cells, still driving the same
propeller. Flight time is doubled and
performance is increased nicely. The fullscale
Bill Barnes Snorter was to be
powered with two 3,000-horsepower
Barnes diesels, and it had contrarotating
propellers.
Since the Snorter presents an unusual
countenance in the air, keep it close in
until you get used to its shapes, and you
will find that it is a fine model to fly. Keep
speed up after hand launching until it
achieves plenty of altitude. Keep a little
power on for improved rudder authority on
landing.
Observe how the model tracks during a
straight flyby. If it yaws one way or the
other, use the semifixed ailerons to
counter this effect. A bit of right aileron
will cause the model to yaw to the left.
The opposite is true for left aileron.
I hope you enjoy the Snorter and its
heritage as much as I have. This model
will mean a lot to many people at the
flying field and will jog many memories.
Don’t tell them right off what it is; let
them try to guess for a while. MA
John Hunton
9154 Rixeyville Rd.
Rixeyville VA 22737
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December 2004 19
TYPICAL ELECTRIC-POWERED models are fine for flying in
nearby grass fields; however, with small scale wheels, they tend to
flip over on landing. A more suitable model might be a seaplane—
one with a large central float to “skizz” onto the grass when
landing.
I vaguely remembered that an airplane design of one of the
1930s pulp serial characters—Bill Barnes—had a large central
float. I found a three-view of that airplane on the Internet by typing
in the keywords “Bill Barnes.” During many months following, I
drew and built a “Snorter” amphibian model. It has a 42-inch
wingspan, 300 square inches of wing area, weighs just less than a
pound, and the original was powered by a Speed 400 motor with
six cells.
The completed model was test-flown, and it lived up to
expectations with completely successful landings on grass. The
John Hunton holds the Snorter. It was intended to be a
schoolyard flier that wouldn’t nose-over on landing. Ashley
Sullivan photo.
It flies well. Small weight in right wingtip counteracts torque
effects and helps model remain in good trim with power on and
power off. Sullivan photo.
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
Pulp-fiction character Bill Barnes’ steed comes to life
as an RC electric-powered “Fantasy Scale” model
by John Hunton
Photos by the author except as noted
Photo by Stew Meyers
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:52 AM Page 19
A 4.1:1 geared Speed 400 motor with 8 x 6 or 9 x 6 propeller
works well. Motor is mounted in balsa crossmembers and
seated in silicone (or epoxy).
Interior is readily accessible with top of fuselage removed. Outer
wing panels are taped in place with automotive trim tape.
Two Hitec servos are nestled between the battery and the cabin.
The receiver is mounted on the cabin floor. Tight but neat!
Simulated carburetor air scoops are formed from 1⁄32 balsa, wetted,
then dried over curved form. This balsa molding is simple and
effective.
Simulated radiator areas were masked, then sprayed with
Testors copper paint. Chart tape was used to outline painted
area.
A six-cell battery pack gives good results with stately, scalelike
flight. A seven-cell pack would give peppier performance.
20 MODEL AVIATION
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:54 AM Page 20
Easy-to-build stabilizer and elevator assembly is typical of
rubber-powered models. Be sure to round off all edges to allow a
smooth covering job.
Placement
of root rib
on inner
wing panels
is critical for
proper
incidence.
Root rib
must be
faired to
fuselage
with small
balsa
scraps.
Wing construction is straightforward. Inner panels are
permanently attached and outer panels slip into sockets.
Considerable washout is built into wings for good stall stability.
December 2004 21
Fin, rudder, and ventral combine to form one of the model’s
focal points. It’s an unusual and character-filled outline!
test flights also showed that the Snorter design was exciting to see
in the air, with its unusual float, extended cabin, and elliptical
wings. It seemed to provide an exciting view from every different
angle.
End of story and onto construction? Nah!
After building a Snorter, I reviewed the Bill Barnes Web page
again, in much more detail. This is an excellent site that is
maintained by a David Dodge. It seems that the Bill Barnes
character and his airplane designs came to life during the 1930s in
some pulp magazines, later appearing in Air Trails magazine.
Then Mr. Barnes drifted off into oblivion in other pulps, to leave
only vivid memories of stories and airplane designs in many
minds.
In the well-organized Bill Barnes Web pages, there is a riveting
history of the many authors and designers, information about
many other characters of the 1930s, and great sketches and threeviews
of the associated airplane designs.
After reading all of the Bill Barnes Web pages, the saga
inspired me and I sent Mr. Dodge photos of my Snorter model. I
also made up a story in 2002 that Paul Cornielusson edited. Mr.
Dodge kindly put this information on his Web site. I think you
will enjoy reading about Bill Barnes at http://home.att.net/~danny
soar5/temp.htm. Following is the 2002 Bill Barnes saga, which I
titled “A Special Mission for the Snorter: Bill Barnes Jr. in
Action.”
“At the request of the President of the United States, Bill
Barnes Jr. agreed to use the fabled airplane named the ‘Snorter’ on
an urgent mission that demanded its unique capabilities. The
original Snorter had been fully maintained in secret storage since
the 1930s, and now it was needed.
“The Snorter could fly very fast and low, barely skimming
waves. With its wooden construction and stealthy reflection
shielded engines, it was nearly invisible to radar. Its two special
12 cylinder diesels had an infrared signature that was undetectable
with look-down detection systems. It could be refueled at sea,
eliminating any telltale aerial refueling.
“The Snorter was the only airplane in the world that could get
in undetected and close enough to the movable man-made island
(now known as Terror Harbor) to pop up and get a quick glimpse
of what the arch villain, Dr. Hisson, was up to now. One
photograph of the island, digitally transmitted back to the
Homeland Defense Agency, would show what the next dastardly
threat to the world might be.
“Bill Barnes Jr. was cruising efficiently at 400 knots now on his
mission. The Snorter was flying just over the whitecaps, its large
Alternate Power Sources and Motors
The normal “cruising” flight time for the Snorter is
roughly seven minutes with the geared Speed 400 can motor
and a six-cell Ni-Cd battery. If you install a three-cell Li-Poly
battery and retain the can motor, flight times will increase to
approximately 10 minutes. If you install a Dymond PJS 300
external rotor motor (or equivalent) and use a three-cell Li-
Poly battery, flight times will increase to roughly 16 minutes.
Changing to the external rotor motor will save
approximately 1 ounce of weight. Changing from the Ni-Cd
to a Li-Poly battery will save an additional 2 ounces. Using
the external rotor motor and Li-Poly battery will save a total
of approximately 3 ounces, which is a significant weight
reduction, and performance will increase proportionately.
However, the Snorter is not an aerobatic model. It is good
enough for me just to see this unusually beautiful and graceful
model in the air and take joy in admiring its complex shapes
as the perspective of the view changes while it passes by. Ben
Tinsley’s 1930s creation is truly ageless. MA
—John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 8:55 AM Page 21
Although not recommended as a first stick-built project,
construction is typical of most rubber-powered models.
Craftsmanship can be learned!
The model’s framework hung in John’s workshop for many
months. The sculptural qualities are apparent.
All diagonal bracing is added after the final framework has been
completed. Wheels are from a Chubby Lady ARF.
The fuselage is actually fun to build, and it has an artlike quality
when framed up. Take your time and enjoy it!
The major contact area of the “slipper” float is covered with
cross-grain balsa for added strength.
22 MODEL AVIATION
main float wet from ocean spray. When cruising, the Snorter used
only one of its diesels in order to save fuel, but on approaching the
island, Bill Jr. fired up the other engine and its contra-rotating
propeller.
“Airspeed was climbing well past 500 mph now, this speed
achievable because all defensive weaponry had been removed to aid
in stealth and speed. A special ‘look-up’ camera had been installed
in the Snorter for the desired overall shot of the island.
“Of course, the diabolical Dr. Hisson had tracked all satellites
and he always covered up his operations when they passed
overhead. Snorter was going to make its run between satellite passes
to catch the island with everything exposed for the camera’s eye.
“The island grew large in the windshield and it was time for Bill
Jr. and the Snorter to pop up. When Bill Jr. pulled on the yoke, the
G-meter read 9. He slammed the stick to the right to start the roll
and was immediately inverted over the island. The upward-looking
camera, which was now facing downward, was triggered.
“Bill rolled to level again just past the island, at just a few feet
Type: RC Electric
Wingspan: 42 inches
Power: Geared Speed 400 on six or seven cells
Flying weight: 15.5 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and modeling dope
See pages 176 and 177
for Snorter plans.
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:48 AM Page 22
24 MODEL AVIATION
over the rolling waves. The invaluable photograph of Dr. Hisson’s
island was automatically digitized and transmitted home.
“During the quick flash of vision that Bill Jr. had over the island,
he realized that the mission had been a success. All manner and
kinds of hardware had been exposed on the tarmac. But one thing
caught his eye. In that quick glimpse, he had seen an airplane sitting
on the tarmac, propellers turning. It was pointed in the direction that
Bill Jr. was going. If this was the Hisson Special, it would be the
only propeller-driven airplane that could catch the Snorter.
“The Hisson had originally been designed by Bill Jr.’s father as a
follow-on to the Snorter, and with design input from Bill Winter, the
Hisson was even faster. But the plans had been stolen. Now Bill Jr.
knew who had stolen them: the sinister Dr. Hisson.
“As Bill Barnes Jr. sped from the island in the Snorter, he
glanced behind briefly. A chill ran down his spine. There was the
Hisson Special, in firing position, directly behind him. His mind
raced, but what could he do?
“To be continued ... ”
CONSTRUCTION
Looking at the Snorter’s framework photos, building one might
Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:50 AM Page 24
December 2004 27
seem daunting. However, it is similar in construction to many
rubber-powered model designs and is really not that difficult to
build. You can take pride in doing it yourself with this model, and
the result is rewarding—especially when it comes to the fuselage.
This airplane’s shapes have good sculptural content. From the time
you get the fuselage on wheels, you will have something nice to
look at.
Looking at the photo of the frame, you will see many diagonals
in it that are not shown on the plans. These temporary members are
inserted to keep the frame stiff during the sanding-and-shaping
process. Use them on any “floppy” part, and remove them if you
want before covering. Be sure to use these diagonals on the wings
and empennage to help when sanding.
Consider weight when you are selecting balsa; keep it light. The
only parts that require firm wood are the 1⁄4 x 1⁄8 balsa fuselage
longerons and the main wing spars.
Begin construction by cutting parts with a #11 X-Acto blade. A
secret to keeping the blade sharp for long periods is to be conscious
of the substrate over which the pieces are being cut. I use foamcore
board, which is available in retail department stores.
The fuselage and main float are built together—one side first,
and then the second side onto the first side. Soak the longerons in
water where they curve or split and glue before installing. Pin the
top and bottom fuselage longerons in place, running uncut through
the cabin area. Install the formers to the longerons, being careful to
place them vertically. (A small triangle will help.) Install the side
longerons, noting that the fuselage top is built with two 1⁄4 x 1⁄8
longerons at the parting joint. This joint will be separated later.
Install all stringers. Take up the first completed side and install
the opposite formers and longerons, and then add the stringers.
Install small 1⁄16 square crosspieces across any former that might
need additional bracing. Sheet the bottom of the “slipper” float.
A critical part of fuselage assembly is getting the wing root ribs
installed accurately. Notice the large angle of positive wing
incidence at the root. Do it that way because Bill Barnes knew
what he was doing. Fair in the root rib with scraps of balsa and
sand smooth. All diagonal braces shown in the skeletal photos can
be added now.
The remaining work will seem simpler with the fuselage framed
up, but you can be extremely proud of what you have built so far,
and it looks great. Be patient when sanding because having a
smooth frame will produce a smooth finished surface. Use a small
block with sandpaper glued onto it to even out the frame. Some
modelers will want to undercut the formers between stringers, but I
left all formers in the fully rounded shape.
I built the prototype without active ailerons, and it flies fine
with just rudder and elevator. The wings are designed to be
detached at the strut attach point. Decide now if you want ailerons
or not. If you do, you may want to attach the wings permanently.
Pin the lower spars over the plans. Slip the ribs over the spar
and glue them into place. Install the upper spar. It may help to cut
the upper spars for the inner wing panels from sheet because of the
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Drawings by John Hunton
12sig1.QXD 10/25/04 9:52 AM Page 27
December 2004 29
curvature. Dry-fit the LEs and TEs,
remove them, and do most of the rough
shaping on them. Glue these parts into
place. After the wing assemblies are dry,
sand them lightly with a large block.
Assemble the tail-piece outlines over
the plans, installing the spars (harder
balsa) and then the crosspieces. After the
parts have dried, block-sand them smooth
and flat in place on the board. Putting a
radius on the edges of the tail surfaces
seems to be an onerous chore. Make a
small block with the proper inside radius,
and work it around the edges to provide a
perfectly round edge. The temporary
diagonals help a great deal here.
The wing struts are made from 1⁄8 x 1⁄4
firm balsa. Shape the struts to a
streamlined cross-section, and then add
two threads on each side, bedded into
glue, for reinforcement.
Covering: After trying several covering
methods on the prototype fuselage,
including Japanese tissue, heat-shrink
materials, etc., I settled on lightweight silk
applied with Sig butyrate dope for
working around this aircraft’s many
curves. Silk is an incredibly flexible
material.
Predope the entire frame, and lightly
resand it. Cut a piece of silk oversize,
sprinkle it with water, redope the area, and
pin the silk into place, making sure that
any wrinkles around the edges are
minimal. If the silk on a rib, former, or
stringer will be in tension, use model
cement to adhere it so it will not pull loose
later. If wrinkles appear, use your
covering iron to remove them.
Use 50-50 thinned dope to seal the silk,
and then apply two more coats of butyrate
clear. I brushed on a thinned coat of silver
dope, lightly sanded the frame, and then
sprayed on the final coat, keeping it light.
When using butyrate dope, small wrinkles
will disappear with time or they can be
heat-gunned out. I covered all flying
surfaces, including the large subrudder,
with CoverLite applied with the Sig
adhesive.
Final Assembly: Presuming that you kept
the flying surfaces relatively flat during
covering, now is the time to warp them.
Slip the inner wing panels into the
fuselage. The wing root rib at the fuselage
is at approximately 4° positive incidence.
Apply heat and warp the panels so that
they are at roughly 2° at the end of the
inner wing panel. Sight from the nose to
see that both panels are equally bent.
Install the wing struts to stabilize the
inner panels. Slip the outer wing panels
into place, and warp the tips so that the
flat bottoms are even with the fuselage
centerline or at zero incidence. (The
incidence reference here is to the flat
bottom—not the true airfoil chord line.)
Install the empennage with reference to
the wing for accurate alignment. Install
the horns, hinges, sheaths, servos, and
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lightweight pushrods. Control-surface
movement should be at approximately 20°
from neutral.
Install the motor with propeller and the
receiver. This leaves the battery pack—the
heaviest item—remaining to finalize the
balance point. Make sure that the model
balances where indicated, even if you have
to add ballast front or rear.
I added all trim to the prototype with a
felt-tipped pen for light weight. I suggest
that you do not fly the model off of water
or use the tip floats.
Flying: I used a Speed 400 motor with a
4:1 gearbox and an APC 8 x 6 propeller in
the prototype. With the concept that this
model should fly realistically, I used a sixcell
battery. Of course, using a seventh
cell would add to the available power.
The prototype has been upgraded with
an external-rotor motor (outrunner type)
and Li-Poly cells, still driving the same
propeller. Flight time is doubled and
performance is increased nicely. The fullscale
Bill Barnes Snorter was to be
powered with two 3,000-horsepower
Barnes diesels, and it had contrarotating
propellers.
Since the Snorter presents an unusual
countenance in the air, keep it close in
until you get used to its shapes, and you
will find that it is a fine model to fly. Keep
speed up after hand launching until it
achieves plenty of altitude. Keep a little
power on for improved rudder authority on
landing.
Observe how the model tracks during a
straight flyby. If it yaws one way or the
other, use the semifixed ailerons to
counter this effect. A bit of right aileron
will cause the model to yaw to the left.
The opposite is true for left aileron.
I hope you enjoy the Snorter and its
heritage as much as I have. This model
will mean a lot to many people at the
flying field and will jog many memories.
Don’t tell them right off what it is; let
them try to guess for a while. MA
John Hunton
9154 Rixeyville Rd.
Rixeyville VA 22737
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