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Wildman 60

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
Hughes RC 1-800-786-0802 www.hughesrc.com
The CHARGE+ glow start charger
makes your pocket glow starter
as good as your power panel.
Charges at 1.6A, yet takes only
600mA from your field battery.
Use at home with AC adapter.
Peaks at highest voltage.
Rejuvenates older depressed
batteries. Get full details at our
website, or call toll-free.
12 ft., 37 lb. Cub, Col. M., Bossier City, LA
CHARGE+ the GRANDSTAND
The GRANDSTAND is great for
.60 size to 40% scale. Made of
HEAVY-DUTY PVC, it is strong,
lightweight and folds for easy
storage and transport. Why pay
more for heavy, old fashioned
stands? See it in action on our
website.
The BATTERY TENDER,
Jr. keeps your 12 volt
gel cell or lead acid field
battery topped off with
microprocessor
controlled float charge
system. Plug it in and
leave it. No more
guessing and no more
down batteries.
Increases battery life too.
Full technical
specifications at our
website.
ONLY $39 95_
ONLY $3995
+S&H
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+S&H
BATTERY TENDER Jr.
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
PERFORMANCE SPECIALTIES
PO Box 3146 • Gardnerville, NV 89410
Phone: 775-265-7523 • Fax: 775-265-7522
Performance Specialties makes your 4 stroke installations
easier with a great variety of new mufflers
and elbows for YS and OS engines.
Our unique new "Twister" allows the
user to rotate the muffler
through 150 degrees then
lock it down in the desired
position. The elbows are
available in 30, 45,
75 and 90 degree
versions to fit
virtually any installation.
The muffler/elbow
combinations and
the "Twister" are
available for OS 70/91/120,
YS 53/63/91/120/140, and
Saito 65/80/91/100/120/150/
180 engines.
VISIT US AT WWW.PSPEC.COM.
DEALER INQUIRIES WELCOME!
Take a look at the chart below. An UltraThrust
Muffler will add power without the hassle of tuned
pipes. No Hangers, No Couplers, No Problems!
Don’t limit your performance or your fun . . .
Fly with an UltraThrust Muffler.
Stock Ultra Thrust
Muffler Muffler
K&B 48 14,800 16,300
OS32 FX 15,500 16,500
OS40 FX 13,700 15,000
OS46 FX 14,400 15,800
OS46 SF 14,000 15,700
OS61 FX 11,700 13,000
OS91 FX 10,500 12,000
ST GS 40 13,600 15,000
ST GS 45 ABC 14,600 16,300
TT Pro 46 14,000 15,100
TT Pro 61 11,400 12,300
Webra 40 GT 13,800 15,200
Webra 50 GT 14,600 15,900
OS 32 FX tested on APC 9/6 prop. All 40-50’s tested on APC 10/6 prop. All 61’s on APC 11/7
prop. OS 91 FX on APC 13/8 prop. 15% Nitro Fuel. Your results may vary with local conditions.
ALSO
AVAILABLE
FOR OTHER
ENGINES
CALL
FOR
DETAILS!
Our Twister
lets you
position
the muffler
where YOU
want to!
PISTON/CYLINDER
ASSEMBLIES
Complete engine and muffler packages are available
from Performance Specialties.
ULTRATHRUST
MUFFLERS
NEED A LITTLE
ELBOW ROOM?
OUR TRUE CHROME PLATED PISTON/CYLINDER
ASSEMBLIES ARE GUARANTEED NOT TO PEEL!
• CUSTOM PORTING.
• TIMING OPTIONS
AVAILABLE ON
SOME VERSIONS.
• FACTORY
INSTALLATION
AVAILABLE.
Also Available:
Vor tech Adapter Nuts
To avoid the problem of long screws, which tend to
flex and break at the point where they enter the adapter
nut, we make 4 lengths of adapter nuts:
Short, Long, Extra Long & Extra-Extra Long.
This allows for the use of shorter screws, which don’t
flex and break.
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•Made in the USA.
There’s nothing better than having a beautiful, lightweight
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Need a spinner for your multi-bladed prop? Maybe
something to fit a that special prop? No problem - give us a
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
www.gcbmrc.com Catalog: $5.00 Direct Sales Only.
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TECHLINE: 281-998-2529
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Tell them you saw it in “Modeler’s Mall”
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
Hughes RC 1-800-786-0802 www.hughesrc.com
The CHARGE+ glow start charger
makes your pocket glow starter
as good as your power panel.
Charges at 1.6A, yet takes only
600mA from your field battery.
Use at home with AC adapter.
Peaks at highest voltage.
Rejuvenates older depressed
batteries. Get full details at our
website, or call toll-free.
12 ft., 37 lb. Cub, Col. M., Bossier City, LA
CHARGE+ the GRANDSTAND
The GRANDSTAND is great for
.60 size to 40% scale. Made of
HEAVY-DUTY PVC, it is strong,
lightweight and folds for easy
storage and transport. Why pay
more for heavy, old fashioned
stands? See it in action on our
website.
The BATTERY TENDER,
Jr. keeps your 12 volt
gel cell or lead acid field
battery topped off with
microprocessor
controlled float charge
system. Plug it in and
leave it. No more
guessing and no more
down batteries.
Increases battery life too.
Full technical
specifications at our
website.
ONLY $39 95_
ONLY $3995
+S&H
ONLY $4995
+S&H
BATTERY TENDER Jr.
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
PERFORMANCE SPECIALTIES
PO Box 3146 • Gardnerville, NV 89410
Phone: 775-265-7523 • Fax: 775-265-7522
Performance Specialties makes your 4 stroke installations
easier with a great variety of new mufflers
and elbows for YS and OS engines.
Our unique new "Twister" allows the
user to rotate the muffler
through 150 degrees then
lock it down in the desired
position. The elbows are
available in 30, 45,
75 and 90 degree
versions to fit
virtually any installation.
The muffler/elbow
combinations and
the "Twister" are
available for OS 70/91/120,
YS 53/63/91/120/140, and
Saito 65/80/91/100/120/150/
180 engines.
VISIT US AT WWW.PSPEC.COM.
DEALER INQUIRIES WELCOME!
Take a look at the chart below. An UltraThrust
Muffler will add power without the hassle of tuned
pipes. No Hangers, No Couplers, No Problems!
Don’t limit your performance or your fun . . .
Fly with an UltraThrust Muffler.
Stock Ultra Thrust
Muffler Muffler
K&B 48 14,800 16,300
OS32 FX 15,500 16,500
OS40 FX 13,700 15,000
OS46 FX 14,400 15,800
OS46 SF 14,000 15,700
OS61 FX 11,700 13,000
OS91 FX 10,500 12,000
ST GS 40 13,600 15,000
ST GS 45 ABC 14,600 16,300
TT Pro 46 14,000 15,100
TT Pro 61 11,400 12,300
Webra 40 GT 13,800 15,200
Webra 50 GT 14,600 15,900
OS 32 FX tested on APC 9/6 prop. All 40-50’s tested on APC 10/6 prop. All 61’s on APC 11/7
prop. OS 91 FX on APC 13/8 prop. 15% Nitro Fuel. Your results may vary with local conditions.
ALSO
AVAILABLE
FOR OTHER
ENGINES
CALL
FOR
DETAILS!
Our Twister
lets you
position
the muffler
where YOU
want to!
PISTON/CYLINDER
ASSEMBLIES
Complete engine and muffler packages are available
from Performance Specialties.
ULTRATHRUST
MUFFLERS
NEED A LITTLE
ELBOW ROOM?
OUR TRUE CHROME PLATED PISTON/CYLINDER
ASSEMBLIES ARE GUARANTEED NOT TO PEEL!
• CUSTOM PORTING.
• TIMING OPTIONS
AVAILABLE ON
SOME VERSIONS.
• FACTORY
INSTALLATION
AVAILABLE.
Also Available:
Vor tech Adapter Nuts
To avoid the problem of long screws, which tend to
flex and break at the point where they enter the adapter
nut, we make 4 lengths of adapter nuts:
Short, Long, Extra Long & Extra-Extra Long.
This allows for the use of shorter screws, which don’t
flex and break.
FIBER- FILLED MOTOR MOUNTS•VIBRA-DAMP ISOLATION MOUNTS•SOUTHERN
PRO RETRACTS•MICRO-BALLOONS•SOUTHERN’S SORGHUM•TX-POSER•HUSH-CLAMP PIPE MOUNT•STRABILIZER TX TRAY•FIBERGLASS PUSHRODS•CORDLESS STARTER PACK•FLEX-ALL•CARBON
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513.738.1576 • www.dbproducts.com
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•Sizes up to 6 inches.
•Standard, Parabolic &
Ultimate styles.
•CNC machined to the
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•Strong, yet very light-weight
•Spun from Aluminum using
the same techniques used
for full-scale aircraft.
•Individually hand polished
& inspected
•Made in the USA.
There’s nothing better than having a beautiful, lightweight
spinner custom cut for your airplane. We cut our Vortech
Spinners to meet special requirements everyday.
Need a spinner for your multi-bladed prop? Maybe
something to fit a that special prop? No problem - give us a
call and we’ll be glad to help.
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
www.gcbmrc.com Catalog: $5.00 Direct Sales Only.
FLAIR PRODUCTS
SCOUT SERIES
WE CARRY ...
• 1⁄4 SCALE STEARMAN
• 1⁄4 SCALE TIGER MOTH
• 1⁄5 SCALE F2B BRISTOL
IN .40 2/S TO .61 4/S:
• SE5-A
• LEGIONAIRE
(NIEUPORT 17)
• BARONETTE
(FOKKER TRI-PLANE)
• SOPWITH PUP
• MAGNATILLA
• HARVARD / AT-6 TEXAN
GREAT MAGNUM
ENGINE/KIT COMBOS!
Flair Fokker D-VII (61” WS, .40 2/S, .60 4/S)
THEY’RE NOT ARFS...
5009 FAIRDALE
PASADENA, TX 77505
ORDERS: 800-609-7951
TECHLINE: 281-998-2529
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Tell them you saw it in “Modeler’s Mall”
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
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The BATTERY TENDER,
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
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OS91 FX 10,500 12,000
ST GS 40 13,600 15,000
ST GS 45 ABC 14,600 16,300
TT Pro 46 14,000 15,100
TT Pro 61 11,400 12,300
Webra 40 GT 13,800 15,200
Webra 50 GT 14,600 15,900
OS 32 FX tested on APC 9/6 prop. All 40-50’s tested on APC 10/6 prop. All 61’s on APC 11/7
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To avoid the problem of long screws, which tend to
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FIBER- FILLED MOTOR MOUNTS•VIBRA-DAMP ISOLATION MOUNTS•SOUTHERN
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FLIGHT SIMULA TORS FOR IBM COMPUTERS•TUNED PIPE MOUNT•VORTECH SPINNERS
4560 Layhigh Rd, Hamilton, OH 45013
513.738.1576 • www.dbproducts.com
Do You Need A Spinner
With Special Cutouts?
NO PROBLEM!
•Sizes up to 6 inches.
•Standard, Parabolic &
Ultimate styles.
•CNC machined to the
highest tolerances
•Strong, yet very light-weight
•Spun from Aluminum using
the same techniques used
for full-scale aircraft.
•Individually hand polished
& inspected
•Made in the USA.
There’s nothing better than having a beautiful, lightweight
spinner custom cut for your airplane. We cut our Vortech
Spinners to meet special requirements everyday.
Need a spinner for your multi-bladed prop? Maybe
something to fit a that special prop? No problem - give us a
call and we’ll be glad to help.
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
www.gcbmrc.com Catalog: $5.00 Direct Sales Only.
FLAIR PRODUCTS
SCOUT SERIES
WE CARRY ...
• 1⁄4 SCALE STEARMAN
• 1⁄4 SCALE TIGER MOTH
• 1⁄5 SCALE F2B BRISTOL
IN .40 2/S TO .61 4/S:
• SE5-A
• LEGIONAIRE
(NIEUPORT 17)
• BARONETTE
(FOKKER TRI-PLANE)
• SOPWITH PUP
• MAGNATILLA
• HARVARD / AT-6 TEXAN
GREAT MAGNUM
ENGINE/KIT COMBOS!
Flair Fokker D-VII (61” WS, .40 2/S, .60 4/S)
THEY’RE NOT ARFS...
5009 FAIRDALE
PASADENA, TX 77505
ORDERS: 800-609-7951
TECHLINE: 281-998-2529
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Tell them you saw it in “Modeler’s Mall”
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
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battery topped off with
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controlled float charge
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leave it. No more
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down batteries.
Increases battery life too.
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

Author: Floyd Carter


Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/04
Page Numbers: 42,43,45,46,47,48

f you have examined the accompanying photos you might be
thinking, “Hey, this airplane looks familiar.” And it should be
familiar. The Wildman 60 design of 1950 was strongly influenced
by a Control Line (CL) Precision Aerobatics, or Stunt, airplane
called the Dragon. It was the design of a young man named J.C.
Yates, and the construction article for it was published in the
November 1947 Air World magazine.
The Dragon was powered by a big Orwick .73 engine on spark
ignition. Its wing was a rectangular planform of only 475 square
inches, with a rather thin airfoil called NACA 99. The Dragon was
an immediate success, most likely because of its graceful lines in an
era when many CL Stunt models were simple “barn door” models
designed for maximum performance and good looks were
secondary.
The haphazard CL Stunt routine of the late 1940s was difficult
for judges and pilots. To bring some sort of order out of chaos,
George Aldrich and his colleagues proposed a new AMA Stunt
pattern with set maneuvers which everyone was obliged to fly.
Some of these maneuvers, such as the Wingover, Vertical Dive, and
Square Loop, required the model to dive toward the ground and
suddenly pull out to level flight. This clearly signaled the need for a
new type of aircraft.
Bob Palmer discovered that a lightweight model with wing flaps
would make a CL airplane turn better. His Go-Devil, Chief, and
Smoothie turned fliers away from high-powered, heavy, and fast
Stunters. Bob flew five-second laps with a glow Veco .29 barely
running at a slow four-stroke setting.
Most of my friends abandoned the old ways and followed Bob
Palmer’s example. I decided to make one last attempt using my
usual power package of an Orwick .64 and spark ignition. My
immediate problem was that the Orwick .64 engine and spark coil
and battery pack weighs 16 ounces. How could I design a CL model
to meet the demands of the new Stunt pattern?
My best solution was to design a larger airplane to carry the dead
weight of my power unit with a reasonable wing loading.
Since I had admired the sleek lines of the J.C. Yates Dragon, I
Wildman 60
■ Floyd Carter
Blast from the past for Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt events
I
The Wildman 60 design was heavily influenced by J.C.
“Madman” Yates’ Dragon, but it is a substantially larger
model.
Type: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt
Wingspan: 591⁄2 inches
Engine: Ignition .60
Flying weight: 60-65 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Silk and dope
Wildman 60
42 MODEL AVIATION
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:38 am Page 42
designed Wildman 60 in the spring of 1950 with the Dragon in the
back of my mind. I settled on a wing planform of 60 x 12 inches
with a thick airfoil and a design weight less than 31⁄2 pounds.
I flew the prototype Wildman 60 in the Southern California
Plymouth meet at Redondo Beach, California, in 1950 and in
Phoenix in 1951. I earned no trophies for these efforts, but my
model flew much better than its pilot. I knew I had something good
going, but the judges at that time were more impressed with the
Bob Palmer style of slow flying.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuselage begins with a simple balsa-and-plywood box,
similar to many modern Stunters. But first you must select an
engine, because the fuselage front end is built around the engine of
choice.
If an Orwick .64 is not part of your collection, consider the
Cunningham Blue Streak .64 produced by RJL Industries (address
at end of text). The Blue Streak spark-ignition engine is similar to
an Orwick .64, but it features radial mounting and beam-mounting
lugs with a ball-bearing crankshaft. Suitable alternatives include the
Anderson Spitfire, the Super Cyclone, the McCoy .60, and other
strong engines.
The radial-mounting version of the Wildman 60 uses a hefty
plywood firewall securely tied into the fuselage and wing structure.
Beam mounting should utilize 1⁄2 x 5⁄8-inch hard-maple bearers
extending back to the wing cutout in the fuselage sides. Either
option begins with making identical fuselage sides from 1⁄8
medium-hard balsa sheet with matching wing cutouts. Plywood
doublers made from 0.8-millimeter or 1⁄32 birch plywood are glued
to the inside surface of each fuselage side.
April 2003 43
This shot with the top hatch removed shows the tank and coil
placement. Notice the modern Deans-type connectors.
The Orwick .64 is among the most beautiful of the ignition
engines, with its metallic-green-painted case.
Another view of the engine bay shows the clean lines of the nose
shape and the fine workmanship by Floyd Carter.
The author with his original design in 1950. He flew it in
competition then and now at Vintage Stunt Championships.
In-flight photo courtesy Elwyn Aud Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
04sig2.QXD 1.24.03 8:41 am Page 43
46 MODEL AVIATION
The radial-mount firewall F1 is epoxied
in place with the straight top of the
fuselage sides pinned to your building
board. Use a T-square to ensure that the
firewall will provide 0-0 engine thrust, and
glue in former F2 to establish the slight
taper, front to rear, of the fuselage sides.
Further bracing of the radial-mount
firewall to the fuselage sides is required,
using spruce triangular pieces behind the
firewall.
The plans show a molded plywood Ubrace
to further strengthen the firewallfuselage
interface, but this brace requires
building a male/female pine fixture to bend
and laminating the thin sheets of plywood
to make the U-brace. An alternate and
satisfactory method is to lay in fiberglass
cloth and epoxy to strengthen this joint.
For beam mounting, drill the maple
engine bearers and install T-nuts. Bolt the
engine to the engine bearers, keeping the
bearers parallel. This establishes the width
of firewall F1, which can be 1⁄8 birch
plywood for this option. If F1 turns out to
be different from what is shown on the
plans, the remainder of the fuselage
formers must also be adjusted to keep the
fuselage sides parallel back to the end of
the engine bearers and to establish the
required curve of the fuselage sides. If a
smoother taper in the fuselage top view is
desired, the engine bearers can be
narrowed aft of the firewall.
With the firewall epoxied in place and a
balsa fill-in between the engine bearers to
keep them parallel, this engine-mount
assembly can be epoxied to the plywood of
the fuselage sides. It is easier to epoxy the
engine-mount assembly to the fuselage one
side at a time. This gives you room to see
that the maple engine bearers are parallel
with the top of the fuselage and to use
weights on the engine-mount assembly to
ensure good contact with the fuselage side.
Epoxy the second fuselage side in place
with the fuselage sides turned upside down
on your flat building surface.
With the fuselage still mounted upsidedown
on the building board, glue in place
the remainder of the fuselage spacers,
formers, and doublers, and pull the
fuselage together at the tail post. Take care
to keep the fuselage curve symmetrical and
without any twist.
Build the fuselage turtledeck and top
block. The turtledeck on the 1993 Wildman
60 was made from two layers of 1⁄32 balsa
sheet laminated on a pine mold with a layer
of silkspan paper between. This requires
building a mold, but the result is light and
strong. Conventional construction is shown
on the plans.
The top hatch must be removable for
access to the spark-ignition components
and fuel tank. The removable hatch may
also include the simulated “cockpit,” or the
cockpit can be permanently glued to the
fuselage with the hatch separation line just
ahead of the cockpit. Either option will
provide enough access to the interior.
Notice that the fuselage gets no
torsional support from the top block. The
fuselage sides will be firmly anchored to
the wing center sheeting to stiffen the
fuselage in the absence of a glued-on top
block.
Tail Group: The prototype Wildman 60
had light 1⁄16 balsa covering over the builtup
tail. The 1993 model did not use balsa
covering. The tail group is a 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch
balsa outline. Double-glue the pieces
together and install 3⁄8-inch gussets at all
corners (not shown on the plans).
Cloth “over-and-under” hinges are
authentic and also seal the hinge gap for
better control response. Rayon taffeta
material works best. The tail group is
plenty strong with silk or heavy silkspan
covering.
The long tail moment and generous
stabilizer area provide authoritative pitch
control. Therefore, your bellcrank and
elevator horn geometry should be planned
for not more than 30° of elevator
movement up and down.
Wing: Build the spars with doublers first.
Draw your own dihedral template on a
large piece of plywood. Both wing panels
are the same length. Assemble the main
Hughes RC 1-800-786-0802 www.hughesrc.com
The CHARGE+ glow start charger
makes your pocket glow starter
as good as your power panel.
Charges at 1.6A, yet takes only
600mA from your field battery.
Use at home with AC adapter.
Peaks at highest voltage.
Rejuvenates older depressed
batteries. Get full details at our
website, or call toll-free.
12 ft., 37 lb. Cub, Col. M., Bossier City, LA
CHARGE+ the GRANDSTAND
The GRANDSTAND is great for
.60 size to 40% scale. Made of
HEAVY-DUTY PVC, it is strong,
lightweight and folds for easy
storage and transport. Why pay
more for heavy, old fashioned
stands? See it in action on our
website.
The BATTERY TENDER,
Jr. keeps your 12 volt
gel cell or lead acid field
battery topped off with
microprocessor
controlled float charge
system. Plug it in and
leave it. No more
guessing and no more
down batteries.
Increases battery life too.
Full technical
specifications at our
website.
ONLY $39 95_
ONLY $3995
+S&H
ONLY $4995
+S&H
BATTERY TENDER Jr.
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:20 pm Page 46
spar over your dihedral template, and glue
on the one-piece filler of 1⁄4 balsa and the
plywood doublers. Build the rear spar over
the main spar to duplicate the dihedral
angle and prevent a crooked wing. Cut out
the slot for the bellcrank to move through
the main spar now, before you forget.
Make a wing-rib template of plywood
or aluminum so that all ribs will be cut and
sanded exactly the same. If you use a wing
fixture featuring 1⁄4-inch-diameter steel
rods, these holes should be included on the
wing-rib template. The 1⁄4-inch holes will
be used to align the wing on the fixture,
but also pay attention to the leading edge
and trailing edge lineup, in case the wingrib
holes are not quite accurate.
With the basic wing frame completed,
install the plywood bellcrank mount,
bellcrank, pushrod wire, and leadouts. The
wing center-section sheeting on the top of
the wing should be joined at the centerline
between panels, and it should be reinforced
with silk and epoxy. The bottom centersection
sheeting of 3-inch-wide balsa
should be in continuous pieces across the
fuselage centerline wherever possible.
The wingtips on the prototype were
balsa blocks, but a built-up and sheetcovered
tip is suitable, less expensive, and
easier. An extra rib that is slightly smaller
than the airfoil ribs must be installed to
provide a two-step “break” in the tip
design. An outboard wingtip weight box is
recommended, but adjustable line guides
are not required if leadout position is per
the plans.
Final Assembly: Assemble the wing and
tail group to the fuselage, taking great care
to keep everything symmetrical and
square. It is important that the
wing/fuselage joint be secure. If the wing
does not fit the fuselage wing cutout
exactly, use scrap balsa packing to get
good contact.
Lash the landing-gear wire to its
plywood mount using copper wire and
epoxy. This is plenty strong. Install the
landing-gear mount by cutting out enough
wing bottom center planking to insert the
plywood gear mount. It is important to
epoxy the landing-gear mount to the
fuselage sides and to the bellcrank
plywood mount. This ties everything
together.
Leather triangular pattern-makers’
fillets are no longer generally available. A
good substitute is very soft triangular
balsa, wetted in ammonia, heated, and
carefully bent to shape. After gluing in
place, sand the fillets to a concave shape
using sandpaper wrapped around a short
length of birch dowel. The epoxy putty
normally used these days for fillets will be
heavy if laid down to the required
thickness. Besides, it is difficult to get a
smooth fillet with epoxy. The model will
April 2003 47
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Phone: 775-265-7523 • Fax: 775-265-7522
Performance Specialties makes your 4 stroke installations
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Our unique new "Twister" allows the
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through 150 degrees then
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The muffler/elbow
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YS 53/63/91/120/140, and
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K&B 48 14,800 16,300
OS32 FX 15,500 16,500
OS40 FX 13,700 15,000
OS46 FX 14,400 15,800
OS46 SF 14,000 15,700
OS61 FX 11,700 13,000
OS91 FX 10,500 12,000
ST GS 40 13,600 15,000
ST GS 45 ABC 14,600 16,300
TT Pro 46 14,000 15,100
TT Pro 61 11,400 12,300
Webra 40 GT 13,800 15,200
Webra 50 GT 14,600 15,900
OS 32 FX tested on APC 9/6 prop. All 40-50’s tested on APC 10/6 prop. All 61’s on APC 11/7
prop. OS 91 FX on APC 13/8 prop. 15% Nitro Fuel. Your results may vary with local conditions.
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Also Available:
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To avoid the problem of long screws, which tend to
flex and break at the point where they enter the adapter
nut, we make 4 lengths of adapter nuts:
Short, Long, Extra Long & Extra-Extra Long.
This allows for the use of shorter screws, which don’t
flex and break.
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04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 47
48 MODEL AVIATION
have a rather crude look without these
generous wing fillets.
Finishing: Silk covering is my material of
choice. This wing is plenty strong for G
forces, but it depends on the covering for
torsional stability. Silk or heavy silkspan
covering is necessary.
Center of Gravity (CG): With the model
assembled and covered, and with most of
the paint applied, the CG can be adjusted by
positioning the flight battery. Hopefully this
step can eliminate the addition of lead for
balance. The 1950 model had the battery aft
of the CG. The 1993 model has the flight
battery installed under the fuel tank. One
never knows until the last minute!
Spark Ignition: There is no need to fear
spark ignition! Modern electronics and Ni-
Cd flight cells all but eliminate sparkignition
problems. I use the transistorized
spark coil made by Aero Ply Research Co.
(address at end of text). As a bonus, the
transistorized spark-ignition units reduce
the current flowing through the engine
timer points to 1⁄50 ampere, with no
sparking. This means that your engine
points will never burn out or wear out. I
typically start an ignition engine in less
time than most people can start a Fox .35 or
an O.S. engine.
I use a homemade, rectangular fuel tank
made from K&S tin sheet stock. It is 1.9
inches wide, 3 inches long, and 1 inch high,
with uniflow venting, giving nearly three
ounces capacity. This will run the Orwick
.64 for roughly seven minutes on fuel
consisting of three parts Coleman lantern
fuel and one part Castrol 70 motorcycle oil.
Be sure to time your engine’s fuel
consumption for the correct tank volume.
I prefer rectangular fuel tanks because
they provide maximum volume in the space
available. In addition, a rectangular tank
takes approximately three laps of coughing
and wheezing before the engine stops
completely. I will not get caught in an
overhead maneuver with a suddenly dead
engine. It is a good idea to make your fuel
tank removable for maintenance. Solder
brackets to the tank, and secure the tank
with small wood screws.
Flying: This model flies best on 66-foot
braided lines of .018 diameter. With the
long wing, the radius of flight is nearly 70
feet. MA
Floyd E. Carter
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
Sources:
Cunningham Blue Streak engine:
RJL Industries
Box 5
Sierra Madre CA 91025
Spark ignition:
Aero Ply Research Co.
2029 Crist Dr.
Los Altos CA 94024
www.gcbmrc.com Catalog: $5.00 Direct Sales Only.
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ORDERS: 800-609-7951
TECHLINE: 281-998-2529
THANK HEAVENS!!!
Tell them you saw it in “Modeler’s Mall”
04sig2.QXD 1.23.03 1:21 pm Page 48

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