84 M ODEL AVIATION
BUILD THISSPORTY CANARD FROM
ONE PIECEOF BALSA
n Charles Fries
Powered by a HiLine MICRO-4 motor, the Y2K Racer has lively performance. The author gives it
a gentle shove-off on another mission. It’s economical fun.
Modelers have always had a certain
fascination with canards. This one is
simple to build and it flies very well.
Y2KRacer
February 2001 85
his little Electric Free Flight model is
similar to the Thistle featured in the
February 1995 Model Aviation.
It started out with three objectives: that it be
built using one piece of 1⁄16- x 3- x 36-inch-long
piece of balsa; that it look like a modern aircraft;
and, above all, that it be a good, consistent flier.
All objectives were met after more than a
year of trial and error. Designing the model
was easy, and building it and aligning the
surfaces went smoothly. The rub was getting
the airplane to fly in a consistent manner, but
the result was very satisfying.
CONSTRUCTION
Why the emphasis on one piece of balsa? I
have built a number of aircraft from plans, and
they all call for a wide variety of materials and
sizes; I have my shop well stocked.
But what about the guy just starting out?
It must be discouraging. Hence fewer people
build their own models, and they miss the
thrill of seeing their creations fly.
In contrast, I have selected readily available
materials, such as ordinary gift-wrapping tissue
and a “glue stick” for covering materials. Instant
glue (CyA, or cyanoacrylate) is available at local
stores. No special tools are needed; a singleedge
razor blade should suffice.
I heartily recommend that a starting
builder’s first tool be a balsa stripper, such
as the one available from Master Airscrew.
The power plant can be purchased as a
complete unit from several sources. I have
the MICRO-4 I bought several years ago
from HiLine for the Thistle. A complete unit
is preferable to shopping around for some
special part that is hard to find.
This little model is not the traditional
“floater” glider. Positioning the canard allows
it to be flown straight ahead or in circles. I have
flown mine five feet off the ground in 100-foot
circles, and 100 feet high straight ahead. (Not
recommended unless you like to walk!)
Wings and Rudders: Lay wax paper over
the plans. Pin the 3⁄16 leading edge (LE) and
trailing edge (TE) from wing rib 1 to rudder
rib D. Notch the wing ribs for the LE and TE.
Using a minimum of CyA, glue the LE and
TE in place. Leave roughly a 1⁄16-inch space
beyond wing rib 5, and glue in the rudder ribs.
Refer to the drawing of the wing root profile
and glue the 1⁄8 LE vertically against the bottom
LE and the ribs. (Adhere from the inside.)
Use a straightedge to mark the location
of the spar on each rib. Notch the rib and
glue in the spar. Lightly coat the entire spar
with thin CyA, for strength.
Separate the wing from the rudder, as
indicated. Round the LE of the wing and the
rudder. Lightly coat the LE and the TE with
thin CyA.
covering the Wing:Using a glue stick
(permanent type) to apply tissue to the top and
bottom of the wing. (The shiny side of the tissue
is up.) Lightly mist the tissue with water, and pin
the LE and the root down on wax paper.
Place 1⁄16 balsa shims under the TE, to set
a 1⁄4-inch twist. There is no twist in the rudder.
While the wing is pinned down, apply
The batteries for the MICRO-4 motor are mounted traversely in the profile fuselage, and
are taped in place. Note the position of the on/off switch.
The Racer’s wing’s proper 1⁄4-inch trailing-edge twist is held in place while the covering
dries with 1⁄16 balsa shims, as pointed out by the pencils.
The HiLine MICRO-4 electric motor is secured in place in the cutout in the rear of the
profile fuselage using white glue. Make sure the propeller is blowing air!
T Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Jill Ann Cavanaugh
86 M ODEL AVIATION
two light coats of dope thinned 50% to the
top of the wing. When that is dry, apply two
coats of the thinned dope to the bottom.
covering the Rudder: Use the same
techniques as for covering the wing. Pin the
rudder down on 1⁄16 balsa spacers at each
corner, and let it dry. Continue as with wing.
Setting Proper Dihedral: Apply a thin coat
of white glue to the root and tip wing ribs, and
glue on the extra ribs. (CyA will penetrate the
wood, and it will be difficult to taper the rib
later.) Taper as shown on the plan.
Pin the wingtip flat and glue on the rudder
with proper offset. Make each wing and rudder
assembly as symmetrical as possible. The
wings will be attached to the fuselage later.
canard construction: Build the canard
following the wing construction notes. Add
the spar (R-R) the full depth of the ribs.
With the canard pinned down, sheet the
center-section between the two middle ribs
from the rear spar to the LE. Cut out the centersection
to the rear of the rear spar. Remove the
pins and sheet the bottom of the center-section.
Cover the canard using the same
procedures used for covering the wing.
Don’t forget to place 1⁄16 balsa spacers under
the canard while it is drying.
Fuselage construction: Cut out the two
fuselage sides, which are marked by arrows
on the plan.
Avoiding the motor, canard, battery,
switch, and cockpit areas, adhere the sides
with white glue used in small dabs, spread
well to save weight. Put weight on the sides
while they are drying.
Glue 1⁄8-inch motor-mount stiffeners to
the top and the bottom. Cut out the canard
“jaw” and the motor, cockpit, battery, and
switch openings. Seal all outside edges of
the fuselage with thin CyA.
Make nose stiffeners to the dotted line,
and glue them in place. Glue in the 1⁄8-
inch canard base (two on each side).
Final Assembly: Block up the fuselage
Y2K
Type: Sport Electric FF
Wingspan: 18 inches
Motor: HiLine MICRO-4
Flying weight: 11/2 ounces
Construction: All balsa
Covering/finish: Tissue and dope
The Y2K Racer is sleek and modern from any angle. A rebirth of
canards is going on in full-scale and model aviation.
When properly trimmed, canards resist stalling and they fly
extremely stable. The tip rudders add to this stability.
Three rechargeable D-cell Ni-Cd batteries are used to recharge the motor batteries. A
sweep-second hand watch is used to monitor the charge time.
Racer
February 2001 87
Full-Size Plans Available —see page 173
vertically. Temporarily put one wing on the
fuselage centerline, and check for 11⁄2
inches of dihedral. Glue the wing to the
fuselage when you are certain that there is
proper dihedral and wing alignment.
Carefully position the other wing, and
check for symmetry in dihedral and
alignment. Glue the wing to the fuselage
when things look perfect.
Glue the motor-area stiffeners to
each side of the fuselage, covering the
1⁄16-inch strip already on the top and
bottom of this area.
Apply two coats of thinned dope to the
fuselage. Colored dope is heavier, and the
secret to this model is keeping it light.
(Each prototype weighed 11⁄2 ounces).
Customize the airplane to your liking
with a marking pen.
Mounting Motor and Prop: Line up the
propeller shaft with the centerline (bottom of
the wing). Apply white glue to the top and
the bottom of the motor with care, and
mount it in the cutout area. (You are finished
if you use CyA and it seeps into the motor!).
Position the batteries, and hold them in
place with Scotch™ tape. Wire the units
together.
Make sure the propeller is blowing air
backward, and that the motor is spinning in
the right direction!
Balancing the Model: Success is the
reward for doing this job correctly.
Poke a hole through the center of
gravity (CG) location. Bend a paper clip to
support the model, and check for
forward/aft balance. It is best if the model
balances roughly 5° nose-down, to help
prevent porpoising.
Now for the last step. Drive a pin a short
distance into the nose. Check the balance
laterally, by supporting it with the propeller
and the pin. One wing will be heavier; apply
a weight on the opposite wing at the juncture
of the wing and rudder to balance it.
Flying: Attach the canard with two small
rubber bands. Find a field with high weeds
for initial tests, and conduct them on a
calm day.
Give the Racer approximately five
seconds of charge and throw it straight
ahead, as you would throw a dart at a board
five feet away. (Not with wrist snap, but
with a follow-through.)
If the model zooms, add minimum
weight to the nose. If the model dives, add
weight to the motor area. In either case,
make sure the canard is on squarely. The
canard angle is at the optimum as shown
on the plans.
After you have sorted things out with
short flights, gradually increase the charge
for longer flights. Then start experimenting
with changes in the canard position.
With care and patience, you will be
rewarded with many fine flights. MA
Charles Fries
1114 Charles St.
Mechanicsburg PA 17055
88 M ODEL AVIATION
