hy don’t more Scale modelers build modern aircraft? I love a
Stinson or Piper cabin model as much as the next person, but
let’s face it: we’ve seen them all before. In recent years I’ve
become interested in designing and flying contemporary types,
particularly so-called “kit planes”—what some of us used to
call “home-builts.” These vary in design from familiar highwing
cabin craft to exotic biplanes, canards, and twins.
The subject of this project—the Zenith Aircraft Company
CH 801—is a rugged Short Takeoff & Landing (STOL) highwing
cabin monoplane that combines a simple slab-sided
fuselage with a constant-chord wing. Aesthetically, it might
charitably be described as a design only a mother could love.
The manufacturer promotes the CH 801 as a “sport utility kit
aircraft,” and it is indeed widely used as a bush plane.
The 801’s simplicity makes for a straightforward Scalemodel-
building project well suited to the novice builder. The
sheet fuselage sides and vertical tail surfaces in addition to a
single airfoil shape help to speed construction, yet there’s still
plenty of detail to dress up the finished model.
Another big plus is that documentation is as close as the
Internet. Zenith Aircraft’s handsome Web site
(www.zenithair.com) offers general arrangement drawings of
the 801 and color photographs of completed aircraft. Since kit
planes incorporate the unique requirements of their builders,
no two are exactly alike—a nice way to personalize your
model as well. The color-and-markings of my 801 are those of
Vince Buttner’s, whose white airplane with turquoise trim is
featured on the Zenith Web site.
CONSTRUCTION
You may want to begin by creating your own kit; i.e.,
fabricate as many of the individual parts as possible
beforehand and collect them all in one location. I use an old
kit box for this purpose. Make an extra copy or two of the
W
The components ready for assembly show that this is a simpleto-
construct model. It’s a perfect first FF Scale project.
Obscure
STOL design
features ease
of construction
and great
flyability!
30 MODEL AVIATION
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:33 am Page 30
plans so you have patterns to trace or
transfer to balsa. This kind of
preparation will speed assembly.
The tail surfaces are very easy to
make. The vertical tail consists of two
pieces of 1⁄32 sheet balsa. The horizontal
tail mates a pair of simple sheet
wingtips with 1⁄16 strip of 1⁄16- or 3⁄32-inch
width.
Fuselage: The 1⁄32 sheet fuselage sides
may seem flimsy at first, but they are
surprisingly strong when combined with
the fuselage formers. Maintaining the
proper balsa grain direction is extremely
important. This is shown on the plans by
small arrows. Each former is a single
balsa cutout. Glue reinforcing strips to
each former for added strength. These
strips should face aft in the completed
model.
Fuselage assembly uses the tab-inslot
technique. Lay one fuselage side on
the work surface, and glue in formers 3,
4, and 5, checking repeatedly to be
certain that parts join at a right angle.
Once these have dried, carefully glue
the second fuselage side to the formers
and let the work dry for a few minutes.
Add formers 2 and 1 followed by 6 and
7.
Add reinforcing strips to the insides
of the fuselage sides in the area of the
rubber peg and where the wing will
March 2003 31
Zenith
Sheet-balsa sides joined by balsa formers enable the fuselage to build up quickly and
accurately. Note the stringers to achieve the nose contour.
There’s not too much structure in the wing’s center-section, but it is still plenty strong
when the functional support struts are added later.
■ Mark B. Fineman CH 801
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:37 am Page 31
eventually mate with the wing. Glue the bent wire landing gear to
formers 4 and 2, and reinforce with simple rectangular balsa
doublers. The three 1⁄16 square stringers between formers 1 and 2a
complete the job.
Wing: The wing panels are built separately and will eventually be
joined to the center-section. Cut the 1⁄16 x 1⁄8 wing spar and leading
and trailing edges from fairly firm balsa. Lay the spar and edge
stock directly over the waxed-paper-covered plan, then glue in the
ribs and foam or balsa wingtips. A curved riblet joins the inner rib.
The curvature is accomplished by running the grain vertically on the
riblets. Add the two small triangular formers located nearby.
When the wing panels have dried thoroughly, remove them from
the plans and sand the tips and leading and trailing edges to shape.
Lay down the spar and trailing-edge pieces that make up the
center-section. Place the wing panels against these, and raise the tips
11⁄8 inches each to establish the wing dihedral. Check the alignment
carefully, and make adjustments if needed. Carefully anoint each
joint with a drop of cyanoacrylate (CyA) glue. When dry, add the
1⁄16 round center brace. Handle the assembled wing with care to
avoid knocking one of the joints loose.
Once the wing is covered, it should fit exactly into the reinforced
mounting grooves located in the fuselage. The correct wing
incidence and dihedral angle will be fixed automatically.
Covering and Assembly: My model was covered with white
Japanese tissue, including all of the sheeted surfaces. The tissue was
alcohol-shrunk and sprayed with two coats of clear dope. Controlsurface
outlines were drawn on with a Sharpie-brand fine-tip
marker, and registration numbers and colored trim were added.
Firmly glue the wing to the fuselage. The tissue in this area must
be left off, of course, to attach the wing. The tissue is added and
finished here afterward. Attach the wing-strut and jury-strut
assemblies. Small parts, such as the wheels and exhaust shrouds, can
also be attached at this time.
Carefully glue the clear side windows and windshield into place
with a gentle application of clear glue, such as RC/56. For a neater
appearance, cover the side acetate with a bond-paper window
pattern. Add the tail surfaces last. Leave some room in the fin slot to
adjust the horizontal tail incidence.
Trimming and Flying: My 801 is powered by two loops of 1⁄8-inch
FAI Tan II rubber driving a 6-inch plastic propeller. This propeller
may be a bit on the small side, so you may want to experiment with
propellers of larger diameter. The model required quite a bit of
downthrust but no additional nose or tail weight.
The 801 was first hand-glided over tall grass. Tail incidence had
to be increased until a smooth glide was obtained. Under power, it
flies to the left and glides to the right. Flights are stable, usually in
the 35- to 45-second range. A larger propeller might improve
endurance. I am also considering converting the model to electric
power—a change that should be easy to effect. MA
Mark B. Fineman
1244 Wolf Hill Rd.
Cheshire CT 06410
32 MODEL AVIATION
Type: Free Flight Rubber Sport Scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Power: Two loops 1⁄8-inch FAI Tan II rubber
Flying weight: 11⁄4 ounces
Construction: Balsa sheet and stick
Covering: Japanese tissue
The completed and assembled framework underscores the Zenith design’s simplicity. Notice the balsa wheels.
Zenith CH 801
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
03sig1.QXD 12.19.02 2:24 pm Page 32
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/03
Page Numbers: 30,31,32,33
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/03
Page Numbers: 30,31,32,33
hy don’t more Scale modelers build modern aircraft? I love a
Stinson or Piper cabin model as much as the next person, but
let’s face it: we’ve seen them all before. In recent years I’ve
become interested in designing and flying contemporary types,
particularly so-called “kit planes”—what some of us used to
call “home-builts.” These vary in design from familiar highwing
cabin craft to exotic biplanes, canards, and twins.
The subject of this project—the Zenith Aircraft Company
CH 801—is a rugged Short Takeoff & Landing (STOL) highwing
cabin monoplane that combines a simple slab-sided
fuselage with a constant-chord wing. Aesthetically, it might
charitably be described as a design only a mother could love.
The manufacturer promotes the CH 801 as a “sport utility kit
aircraft,” and it is indeed widely used as a bush plane.
The 801’s simplicity makes for a straightforward Scalemodel-
building project well suited to the novice builder. The
sheet fuselage sides and vertical tail surfaces in addition to a
single airfoil shape help to speed construction, yet there’s still
plenty of detail to dress up the finished model.
Another big plus is that documentation is as close as the
Internet. Zenith Aircraft’s handsome Web site
(www.zenithair.com) offers general arrangement drawings of
the 801 and color photographs of completed aircraft. Since kit
planes incorporate the unique requirements of their builders,
no two are exactly alike—a nice way to personalize your
model as well. The color-and-markings of my 801 are those of
Vince Buttner’s, whose white airplane with turquoise trim is
featured on the Zenith Web site.
CONSTRUCTION
You may want to begin by creating your own kit; i.e.,
fabricate as many of the individual parts as possible
beforehand and collect them all in one location. I use an old
kit box for this purpose. Make an extra copy or two of the
W
The components ready for assembly show that this is a simpleto-
construct model. It’s a perfect first FF Scale project.
Obscure
STOL design
features ease
of construction
and great
flyability!
30 MODEL AVIATION
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:33 am Page 30
plans so you have patterns to trace or
transfer to balsa. This kind of
preparation will speed assembly.
The tail surfaces are very easy to
make. The vertical tail consists of two
pieces of 1⁄32 sheet balsa. The horizontal
tail mates a pair of simple sheet
wingtips with 1⁄16 strip of 1⁄16- or 3⁄32-inch
width.
Fuselage: The 1⁄32 sheet fuselage sides
may seem flimsy at first, but they are
surprisingly strong when combined with
the fuselage formers. Maintaining the
proper balsa grain direction is extremely
important. This is shown on the plans by
small arrows. Each former is a single
balsa cutout. Glue reinforcing strips to
each former for added strength. These
strips should face aft in the completed
model.
Fuselage assembly uses the tab-inslot
technique. Lay one fuselage side on
the work surface, and glue in formers 3,
4, and 5, checking repeatedly to be
certain that parts join at a right angle.
Once these have dried, carefully glue
the second fuselage side to the formers
and let the work dry for a few minutes.
Add formers 2 and 1 followed by 6 and
7.
Add reinforcing strips to the insides
of the fuselage sides in the area of the
rubber peg and where the wing will
March 2003 31
Zenith
Sheet-balsa sides joined by balsa formers enable the fuselage to build up quickly and
accurately. Note the stringers to achieve the nose contour.
There’s not too much structure in the wing’s center-section, but it is still plenty strong
when the functional support struts are added later.
■ Mark B. Fineman CH 801
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:37 am Page 31
eventually mate with the wing. Glue the bent wire landing gear to
formers 4 and 2, and reinforce with simple rectangular balsa
doublers. The three 1⁄16 square stringers between formers 1 and 2a
complete the job.
Wing: The wing panels are built separately and will eventually be
joined to the center-section. Cut the 1⁄16 x 1⁄8 wing spar and leading
and trailing edges from fairly firm balsa. Lay the spar and edge
stock directly over the waxed-paper-covered plan, then glue in the
ribs and foam or balsa wingtips. A curved riblet joins the inner rib.
The curvature is accomplished by running the grain vertically on the
riblets. Add the two small triangular formers located nearby.
When the wing panels have dried thoroughly, remove them from
the plans and sand the tips and leading and trailing edges to shape.
Lay down the spar and trailing-edge pieces that make up the
center-section. Place the wing panels against these, and raise the tips
11⁄8 inches each to establish the wing dihedral. Check the alignment
carefully, and make adjustments if needed. Carefully anoint each
joint with a drop of cyanoacrylate (CyA) glue. When dry, add the
1⁄16 round center brace. Handle the assembled wing with care to
avoid knocking one of the joints loose.
Once the wing is covered, it should fit exactly into the reinforced
mounting grooves located in the fuselage. The correct wing
incidence and dihedral angle will be fixed automatically.
Covering and Assembly: My model was covered with white
Japanese tissue, including all of the sheeted surfaces. The tissue was
alcohol-shrunk and sprayed with two coats of clear dope. Controlsurface
outlines were drawn on with a Sharpie-brand fine-tip
marker, and registration numbers and colored trim were added.
Firmly glue the wing to the fuselage. The tissue in this area must
be left off, of course, to attach the wing. The tissue is added and
finished here afterward. Attach the wing-strut and jury-strut
assemblies. Small parts, such as the wheels and exhaust shrouds, can
also be attached at this time.
Carefully glue the clear side windows and windshield into place
with a gentle application of clear glue, such as RC/56. For a neater
appearance, cover the side acetate with a bond-paper window
pattern. Add the tail surfaces last. Leave some room in the fin slot to
adjust the horizontal tail incidence.
Trimming and Flying: My 801 is powered by two loops of 1⁄8-inch
FAI Tan II rubber driving a 6-inch plastic propeller. This propeller
may be a bit on the small side, so you may want to experiment with
propellers of larger diameter. The model required quite a bit of
downthrust but no additional nose or tail weight.
The 801 was first hand-glided over tall grass. Tail incidence had
to be increased until a smooth glide was obtained. Under power, it
flies to the left and glides to the right. Flights are stable, usually in
the 35- to 45-second range. A larger propeller might improve
endurance. I am also considering converting the model to electric
power—a change that should be easy to effect. MA
Mark B. Fineman
1244 Wolf Hill Rd.
Cheshire CT 06410
32 MODEL AVIATION
Type: Free Flight Rubber Sport Scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Power: Two loops 1⁄8-inch FAI Tan II rubber
Flying weight: 11⁄4 ounces
Construction: Balsa sheet and stick
Covering: Japanese tissue
The completed and assembled framework underscores the Zenith design’s simplicity. Notice the balsa wheels.
Zenith CH 801
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
03sig1.QXD 12.19.02 2:24 pm Page 32
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/03
Page Numbers: 30,31,32,33
hy don’t more Scale modelers build modern aircraft? I love a
Stinson or Piper cabin model as much as the next person, but
let’s face it: we’ve seen them all before. In recent years I’ve
become interested in designing and flying contemporary types,
particularly so-called “kit planes”—what some of us used to
call “home-builts.” These vary in design from familiar highwing
cabin craft to exotic biplanes, canards, and twins.
The subject of this project—the Zenith Aircraft Company
CH 801—is a rugged Short Takeoff & Landing (STOL) highwing
cabin monoplane that combines a simple slab-sided
fuselage with a constant-chord wing. Aesthetically, it might
charitably be described as a design only a mother could love.
The manufacturer promotes the CH 801 as a “sport utility kit
aircraft,” and it is indeed widely used as a bush plane.
The 801’s simplicity makes for a straightforward Scalemodel-
building project well suited to the novice builder. The
sheet fuselage sides and vertical tail surfaces in addition to a
single airfoil shape help to speed construction, yet there’s still
plenty of detail to dress up the finished model.
Another big plus is that documentation is as close as the
Internet. Zenith Aircraft’s handsome Web site
(www.zenithair.com) offers general arrangement drawings of
the 801 and color photographs of completed aircraft. Since kit
planes incorporate the unique requirements of their builders,
no two are exactly alike—a nice way to personalize your
model as well. The color-and-markings of my 801 are those of
Vince Buttner’s, whose white airplane with turquoise trim is
featured on the Zenith Web site.
CONSTRUCTION
You may want to begin by creating your own kit; i.e.,
fabricate as many of the individual parts as possible
beforehand and collect them all in one location. I use an old
kit box for this purpose. Make an extra copy or two of the
W
The components ready for assembly show that this is a simpleto-
construct model. It’s a perfect first FF Scale project.
Obscure
STOL design
features ease
of construction
and great
flyability!
30 MODEL AVIATION
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:33 am Page 30
plans so you have patterns to trace or
transfer to balsa. This kind of
preparation will speed assembly.
The tail surfaces are very easy to
make. The vertical tail consists of two
pieces of 1⁄32 sheet balsa. The horizontal
tail mates a pair of simple sheet
wingtips with 1⁄16 strip of 1⁄16- or 3⁄32-inch
width.
Fuselage: The 1⁄32 sheet fuselage sides
may seem flimsy at first, but they are
surprisingly strong when combined with
the fuselage formers. Maintaining the
proper balsa grain direction is extremely
important. This is shown on the plans by
small arrows. Each former is a single
balsa cutout. Glue reinforcing strips to
each former for added strength. These
strips should face aft in the completed
model.
Fuselage assembly uses the tab-inslot
technique. Lay one fuselage side on
the work surface, and glue in formers 3,
4, and 5, checking repeatedly to be
certain that parts join at a right angle.
Once these have dried, carefully glue
the second fuselage side to the formers
and let the work dry for a few minutes.
Add formers 2 and 1 followed by 6 and
7.
Add reinforcing strips to the insides
of the fuselage sides in the area of the
rubber peg and where the wing will
March 2003 31
Zenith
Sheet-balsa sides joined by balsa formers enable the fuselage to build up quickly and
accurately. Note the stringers to achieve the nose contour.
There’s not too much structure in the wing’s center-section, but it is still plenty strong
when the functional support struts are added later.
■ Mark B. Fineman CH 801
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:37 am Page 31
eventually mate with the wing. Glue the bent wire landing gear to
formers 4 and 2, and reinforce with simple rectangular balsa
doublers. The three 1⁄16 square stringers between formers 1 and 2a
complete the job.
Wing: The wing panels are built separately and will eventually be
joined to the center-section. Cut the 1⁄16 x 1⁄8 wing spar and leading
and trailing edges from fairly firm balsa. Lay the spar and edge
stock directly over the waxed-paper-covered plan, then glue in the
ribs and foam or balsa wingtips. A curved riblet joins the inner rib.
The curvature is accomplished by running the grain vertically on the
riblets. Add the two small triangular formers located nearby.
When the wing panels have dried thoroughly, remove them from
the plans and sand the tips and leading and trailing edges to shape.
Lay down the spar and trailing-edge pieces that make up the
center-section. Place the wing panels against these, and raise the tips
11⁄8 inches each to establish the wing dihedral. Check the alignment
carefully, and make adjustments if needed. Carefully anoint each
joint with a drop of cyanoacrylate (CyA) glue. When dry, add the
1⁄16 round center brace. Handle the assembled wing with care to
avoid knocking one of the joints loose.
Once the wing is covered, it should fit exactly into the reinforced
mounting grooves located in the fuselage. The correct wing
incidence and dihedral angle will be fixed automatically.
Covering and Assembly: My model was covered with white
Japanese tissue, including all of the sheeted surfaces. The tissue was
alcohol-shrunk and sprayed with two coats of clear dope. Controlsurface
outlines were drawn on with a Sharpie-brand fine-tip
marker, and registration numbers and colored trim were added.
Firmly glue the wing to the fuselage. The tissue in this area must
be left off, of course, to attach the wing. The tissue is added and
finished here afterward. Attach the wing-strut and jury-strut
assemblies. Small parts, such as the wheels and exhaust shrouds, can
also be attached at this time.
Carefully glue the clear side windows and windshield into place
with a gentle application of clear glue, such as RC/56. For a neater
appearance, cover the side acetate with a bond-paper window
pattern. Add the tail surfaces last. Leave some room in the fin slot to
adjust the horizontal tail incidence.
Trimming and Flying: My 801 is powered by two loops of 1⁄8-inch
FAI Tan II rubber driving a 6-inch plastic propeller. This propeller
may be a bit on the small side, so you may want to experiment with
propellers of larger diameter. The model required quite a bit of
downthrust but no additional nose or tail weight.
The 801 was first hand-glided over tall grass. Tail incidence had
to be increased until a smooth glide was obtained. Under power, it
flies to the left and glides to the right. Flights are stable, usually in
the 35- to 45-second range. A larger propeller might improve
endurance. I am also considering converting the model to electric
power—a change that should be easy to effect. MA
Mark B. Fineman
1244 Wolf Hill Rd.
Cheshire CT 06410
32 MODEL AVIATION
Type: Free Flight Rubber Sport Scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Power: Two loops 1⁄8-inch FAI Tan II rubber
Flying weight: 11⁄4 ounces
Construction: Balsa sheet and stick
Covering: Japanese tissue
The completed and assembled framework underscores the Zenith design’s simplicity. Notice the balsa wheels.
Zenith CH 801
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
03sig1.QXD 12.19.02 2:24 pm Page 32
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/03
Page Numbers: 30,31,32,33
hy don’t more Scale modelers build modern aircraft? I love a
Stinson or Piper cabin model as much as the next person, but
let’s face it: we’ve seen them all before. In recent years I’ve
become interested in designing and flying contemporary types,
particularly so-called “kit planes”—what some of us used to
call “home-builts.” These vary in design from familiar highwing
cabin craft to exotic biplanes, canards, and twins.
The subject of this project—the Zenith Aircraft Company
CH 801—is a rugged Short Takeoff & Landing (STOL) highwing
cabin monoplane that combines a simple slab-sided
fuselage with a constant-chord wing. Aesthetically, it might
charitably be described as a design only a mother could love.
The manufacturer promotes the CH 801 as a “sport utility kit
aircraft,” and it is indeed widely used as a bush plane.
The 801’s simplicity makes for a straightforward Scalemodel-
building project well suited to the novice builder. The
sheet fuselage sides and vertical tail surfaces in addition to a
single airfoil shape help to speed construction, yet there’s still
plenty of detail to dress up the finished model.
Another big plus is that documentation is as close as the
Internet. Zenith Aircraft’s handsome Web site
(www.zenithair.com) offers general arrangement drawings of
the 801 and color photographs of completed aircraft. Since kit
planes incorporate the unique requirements of their builders,
no two are exactly alike—a nice way to personalize your
model as well. The color-and-markings of my 801 are those of
Vince Buttner’s, whose white airplane with turquoise trim is
featured on the Zenith Web site.
CONSTRUCTION
You may want to begin by creating your own kit; i.e.,
fabricate as many of the individual parts as possible
beforehand and collect them all in one location. I use an old
kit box for this purpose. Make an extra copy or two of the
W
The components ready for assembly show that this is a simpleto-
construct model. It’s a perfect first FF Scale project.
Obscure
STOL design
features ease
of construction
and great
flyability!
30 MODEL AVIATION
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:33 am Page 30
plans so you have patterns to trace or
transfer to balsa. This kind of
preparation will speed assembly.
The tail surfaces are very easy to
make. The vertical tail consists of two
pieces of 1⁄32 sheet balsa. The horizontal
tail mates a pair of simple sheet
wingtips with 1⁄16 strip of 1⁄16- or 3⁄32-inch
width.
Fuselage: The 1⁄32 sheet fuselage sides
may seem flimsy at first, but they are
surprisingly strong when combined with
the fuselage formers. Maintaining the
proper balsa grain direction is extremely
important. This is shown on the plans by
small arrows. Each former is a single
balsa cutout. Glue reinforcing strips to
each former for added strength. These
strips should face aft in the completed
model.
Fuselage assembly uses the tab-inslot
technique. Lay one fuselage side on
the work surface, and glue in formers 3,
4, and 5, checking repeatedly to be
certain that parts join at a right angle.
Once these have dried, carefully glue
the second fuselage side to the formers
and let the work dry for a few minutes.
Add formers 2 and 1 followed by 6 and
7.
Add reinforcing strips to the insides
of the fuselage sides in the area of the
rubber peg and where the wing will
March 2003 31
Zenith
Sheet-balsa sides joined by balsa formers enable the fuselage to build up quickly and
accurately. Note the stringers to achieve the nose contour.
There’s not too much structure in the wing’s center-section, but it is still plenty strong
when the functional support struts are added later.
■ Mark B. Fineman CH 801
03sig1.QXD 1.6.03 8:37 am Page 31
eventually mate with the wing. Glue the bent wire landing gear to
formers 4 and 2, and reinforce with simple rectangular balsa
doublers. The three 1⁄16 square stringers between formers 1 and 2a
complete the job.
Wing: The wing panels are built separately and will eventually be
joined to the center-section. Cut the 1⁄16 x 1⁄8 wing spar and leading
and trailing edges from fairly firm balsa. Lay the spar and edge
stock directly over the waxed-paper-covered plan, then glue in the
ribs and foam or balsa wingtips. A curved riblet joins the inner rib.
The curvature is accomplished by running the grain vertically on the
riblets. Add the two small triangular formers located nearby.
When the wing panels have dried thoroughly, remove them from
the plans and sand the tips and leading and trailing edges to shape.
Lay down the spar and trailing-edge pieces that make up the
center-section. Place the wing panels against these, and raise the tips
11⁄8 inches each to establish the wing dihedral. Check the alignment
carefully, and make adjustments if needed. Carefully anoint each
joint with a drop of cyanoacrylate (CyA) glue. When dry, add the
1⁄16 round center brace. Handle the assembled wing with care to
avoid knocking one of the joints loose.
Once the wing is covered, it should fit exactly into the reinforced
mounting grooves located in the fuselage. The correct wing
incidence and dihedral angle will be fixed automatically.
Covering and Assembly: My model was covered with white
Japanese tissue, including all of the sheeted surfaces. The tissue was
alcohol-shrunk and sprayed with two coats of clear dope. Controlsurface
outlines were drawn on with a Sharpie-brand fine-tip
marker, and registration numbers and colored trim were added.
Firmly glue the wing to the fuselage. The tissue in this area must
be left off, of course, to attach the wing. The tissue is added and
finished here afterward. Attach the wing-strut and jury-strut
assemblies. Small parts, such as the wheels and exhaust shrouds, can
also be attached at this time.
Carefully glue the clear side windows and windshield into place
with a gentle application of clear glue, such as RC/56. For a neater
appearance, cover the side acetate with a bond-paper window
pattern. Add the tail surfaces last. Leave some room in the fin slot to
adjust the horizontal tail incidence.
Trimming and Flying: My 801 is powered by two loops of 1⁄8-inch
FAI Tan II rubber driving a 6-inch plastic propeller. This propeller
may be a bit on the small side, so you may want to experiment with
propellers of larger diameter. The model required quite a bit of
downthrust but no additional nose or tail weight.
The 801 was first hand-glided over tall grass. Tail incidence had
to be increased until a smooth glide was obtained. Under power, it
flies to the left and glides to the right. Flights are stable, usually in
the 35- to 45-second range. A larger propeller might improve
endurance. I am also considering converting the model to electric
power—a change that should be easy to effect. MA
Mark B. Fineman
1244 Wolf Hill Rd.
Cheshire CT 06410
32 MODEL AVIATION
Type: Free Flight Rubber Sport Scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Power: Two loops 1⁄8-inch FAI Tan II rubber
Flying weight: 11⁄4 ounces
Construction: Balsa sheet and stick
Covering: Japanese tissue
The completed and assembled framework underscores the Zenith design’s simplicity. Notice the balsa wheels.
Zenith CH 801
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
03sig1.QXD 12.19.02 2:24 pm Page 32
