Small Tanks for Scale Models
HIGHLY visible fuel tanks are a not-unusual feature of early-era aircraft. Such designs as the Bleriot and the Fokker Spider carried gravity tanks in the cabane struts or next to the engine. While building a model of the 1918 Curtiss Seagull, I realized that I could also make a functional miniature tank. Like the original, it would rest alongside the engine and have hemispherical ends. To simulate the basic tank, I used the deep-drawn aluminum tubes in which some brands of cigars are packaged (Robert Burns and Bering are the two I know of). Besides an acquaintance who smokes expensive cigars, all you'll need to complete this project are a fine-cut needle file, auger bit file, razor saw, scriber, and hand drill and holder.
Holes
Building a model is an exercise in cutting and shaping bits and pieces to be assembled into the final product. To assemble the model properly, builders spend a lot of time and energy making holes. The technique for making holes varies according to the size and shape of the hole and the material into which it is being cut. Modelers must learn to cut specific holes into specific materials. Regardless of the shape of the hole, begin by drilling an aperture that is basically round. Even if a large, irregularly shaped cutout is what you're after, you should still draw the initial hole basically round and pass a jigsaw blade or file through it to work it to size and shape from the inside.
The Shell Game
FULL-scale stressed skin aircraft have been built of plywood, sheet metal and recently, fiberglass. Sheet or shell structures are very efficient and are used for this reason, as well as obtaining smooth aerodynamic surfaces. Shells are not always the lightest structures, since even the thinnest usable material may produce a structure which is much stronger than is needed. On this account, framed structures may be best for small aircraft. Shells function as hollow beams and depend on their shape for strength and stiffness. Failure results because of local crumpling or rupture. If you bend a soda straw or other paper tube it will fail by collapsing at one or more places. In wings and fuselages, ribs, rings and stiffeners prevent or
Those Torturous Canopies
MY 1/12-scale Vultee BT-13 had come along well until the problem of the canopy struck. The airplane is strongly dependent on appearance of the canopy. This article is a sort of show-and-tell about working out canopy problems. It did not produce a jewel but an item that satisfied me for this model. It also was a learning experience. I can make the next one better. The photos show this monster. Worse still, my model required access to the cockpit spaces. After lots of scheming and sketching it began to seem reasonable that sliding sections like the full-size aircraft would work. Not much later it even began to look as if it would also be the easiest and most flight-worthy way to make a canopy.
Admire Those Curves-Laminated, Of Course!
CURVED OUTLINES for rudders, wing tips, and former rings can be laminated easily. A good laminated wing tip bow will look better, add strength to the wing, and save weight. It isn't hard to do if you go at it right. In fact, going at it right is one of the most important principles in any task. If you're going to build models regularly, you should "tool-up" to make laminated curved parts. The investment in time and materials is small when compared to the building speed and quality you will continue to derive from your "tooling." Gluing is done with Titebond, Sigbond, or equal.
