Free Flight: Scale-Sport
PUTTING A FINISH on a model becomes more difficult when weight is a crucial factor in how well that model will perform. A light-weight model, which is what a rubber-powered model must be, requires some special methods to obtain a good finish. You must remember that you are out to "capture the feeling" of the real craft without penalizing the flying ability of the model. The beauty of your model is not skin deep. A well-built structure showing underneath compliments the effort done on finishing. Let me define what I mean by finishing a rubber model. This includes tissue covering, and all color and markings. Some models have all or partial sheet wood covering. These too can be dressed up considerably with a good finish.
Free Flight: Scale-Sport
THIS INSTALLMENT continues the methods for a light-weight finish for your rubber scale model. Previously discussed were techniques for creating an attractively finished model using colored Japanese tissue exclusively to obtain the contrasting color scheme. I suggest that the use of color dope on your models should be done in stages. It takes some time and experience to become familiar with the use of color dope. The use, or rather misuse, of color dope has probably produced more non-flying overweight models than any other item available at your friendly hobby shop. Color dope applied over any large area of the model must be sprayed on to keep the weight down.
Free Flight: Scale-Sport
I MENTIONED in the last installment that further use of masks and appliques (look it up in the dictionary) would be discussed this time around. Sprayed-on finishes need a mask of some type to obtain a color separation line. Masks for lettering, registration numbers, company logos, etc. can be drawn on plain paper several times until you are satisfied with the results. Several attempts at making a mask of some difficult design can only mean your desire to do it right is growing with the rest of your modeling ability. And remember, all the times you have done it over you haven't yet touched the model.
Free Flight: Scale-Sport
I HAVE been dealing with lightweight finishes for models in the past few articles. Discussions have covered the use of colored tissue, color doped surfaces, masks, appliques, and air-brushing techniques. Several inquiries have been made to me to explain my method of obtaining a lightweight simulation of the lozenge pattern fabric used on German aircraft in WWI. I shall attempt to explain my light method, albeit this undertaking is a little "heavy" for the beginner. Early use of camouflage in WWI consisted of painting irregular blotches of green, mauve (pale bluish purple), and dark green on the upper surfaces of aircraft to protect them from attack while on the ground.
Free Flight: Scale-Sport
IN LAST MONTH'S article we talked about building in trimability-those changes made to the structure of the model which improve both durability and flyability. In this article we will discuss the step-by-step procedure which has worked for me on flight trimming a rubber scale model. However, before we get into this let me mention a number of points which should be considered before you attempt to trim the model. These are: 1) Leave all of the cheesecake off until the model is fully trimmed. Landing gear covers, pitot tubes, antennas, any other fragile parts don't contribute to the flight trim are more apt to be undamaged applied after the model is trimmed.
